What is the difference and what is more expensive than white or yellow gold: the advantages and disadvantages of the two precious metals

Hearing the word “gold”, a person imagines the classic yellow color, the noble sunshine. In the traditional view, noble metal looks exactly like this. Today, when making gold jewelry, jewelers are not limited to one shade: you can find white, red, pink and even blue and green jewelry. On the one hand, this variety pleases, on the other hand, it makes it difficult to choose when buying.

We invite you to talk about white and yellow gold: analyze their advantages and disadvantages, similarities and differences.

Why does gold have different colors?

The color of pure gold is yellow, and its name in Latin, aurum, means exactly that. You can see the “real” color by looking at a bank gold bar - a brick with a purity of 999.9. It will not be possible to make jewelry from it, because it will bend and wrinkle. Pure gold is soft, much like tin, and setting precious stones in it would be risky. In order to decorate our ears, necks and fingers, jewelry gold is used - an alloy of precious metal with a ligature, that is, metals that strengthen the noble, but so vulnerable gold.

Depending on the composition of the additive-ligature, gold alloys of different colors are obtained, the most popular and in demand of which are the following types of jewelry gold:

• red – 58.5% Au, 31.1% Cu and 10.4% Ag;
• pink – 75% Au, 9% Ag and 16% Cu;
• white – options are possible, for example, 58.5% Au, 12.5% ​​Ag and 27% Pd;
• yellow – a combination of Au (the percentage depends on the sample), Cu and Ag (the final shade depends on their ratio - closer to lemon or warm yellow).

Redness comes from copper, whiteness from silver, palladium, and platinum. The saturation of the tone also depends on the percentage of the base element – ​​gold. The true color of white gold is yellowish. Rhodium plating, a thin layer of another noble metal, rhodium, gives it a cold platinum pallor.

Yellow metallic shade

Gold in yellow has always symbolized wealth and success. There is light lemon, and there is dark. In contrast to red, it is much more versatile and goes better with inserts of precious and semi-precious stones.

The advantages of this alloy include:

• Hue - ligatures (ratio of metals) allow you to get warm colors.
• Universal - suitable for everyone, regardless of skin color or hair.
• Varied - the shape of jewelry can be simple, intricate, with or without stones.
• Affordable - due to the absence of expensive additional metals in the alloy, they are much cheaper.

Comparison of rose and yellow gold

When we talk about pink and yellow alloys, we mean 750 fineness (18 carats) of precious metal. Which gold is better - pink or yellow? These two metals constantly compete with each other in the collections of leading jewelry houses. As a rule, models are produced in both versions, although pink jewelry is more aimed at a female audience. Both alloys have the same wear characteristics, so the choice depends entirely on your preferences.

Red gold ring with diamonds 911363B

Designer ring made of lemon gold 931638B

Stylists' opinion

The pink tint is perceived as slightly cooler. It is exotic for the Russian market, and therefore jewelry made from it looks unusual and fresh. If you want to surprise the most sophisticated connoisseurs, choose a pink shade. The yellow 750 alloy is closest to the color of pure precious metal, and therefore jewelry made from it is unmistakably identified as jewelry. If unconditional prestige is important to you, the yellow alloy is the most advantageous in this regard. In the “pink/yellow” pair, the metal with a pink tint looks more feminine, and the yellow one looks more masculine.

Astrologers' opinion

Yellow gold has an active masculine energy, as close as possible to the energy of pure metal. The Latin name aurum correlates with the word aurora, that is, dawn, sunrise, and this is one of the reasons why it is called the solar metal. Choosing a yellow alloy accentuates your qualities such as the will to win and the desire for success, including material ones. This is a symbol of wealth, so if a good financial situation is of paramount importance to you, choose jewelry made of 18-karat yellow gold.

Pink alloy is suitable for people for whom the main thing in life is love in all its manifestations - for a partner, family, friends, and oneself. In general, pink alloy is much more suitable for girls and women, although it cannot be called purely feminine. This metal will help you find harmony in relationships and attitude.

The color of precious metals depends on the ligature

In jewelry, the term “ligature” means bringing a jewelry alloy to the required purity; during the technological process, an additional ingredient is added to the pure precious metal (Au):

• silver;
• nickel;
• copper;
• platinum;
• palladium.

The amount and composition of the impurity determines the color and strength of the finished material. A beautiful sunny shade is obtained by adding copper ( Cu ) , silver (Ag). Neutral white color is given by inclusions of platinum (Pt), nickel (Ni), palladium (Pd), silver, zinc (Zn).

Impurities of nickel and zinc enhance the cold shine of the metal

It’s easier to understand the intricacies of production using specific numbers. An example of the classic ratio of metals in 1 kg of 18k yellow gold alloy:

• Au – 750 g;
• Ag – 170 g;
• Cu – 80 g.

By changing the percentage of copper and silver impurities, the desired color is obtained. Thanks to this, jewelry lovers have a choice; they can purchase a ring, earrings, a chain with a red tint, or an equally valuable item in a classic lemon yellow color.

The white gold alloy has few shades; the level of shine of the finished item depends on the presence of impurities; 1 kg of working material contains 750 g of Au, Pd – 200 g, Ag – 50 g.

Comparison of white and red gold

From a practical point of view, to the question “Which gold is better – red or white?”, many answer unequivocally: of course, red! After all, products made from a white alloy are usually coated with rhodium, and its layer needs to be renewed over time. This will be especially noticeable on jewelry that you often use, such as rings or chains. Many buyers perceive the presence of rhodium plating as a minus, missing out on the advantages of this coating, which:

• gives jewelry a beautiful steel shine;
• strengthens gold, which is soft by nature (rhodium-plated jewelry is less damaged and scratched);
• particles of precious metal do not wear off - the ring or chain does not lose weight. For jewelry that is worn occasionally, this does not matter, but for an engagement ring that you plan to wear without taking it off for the rest of your life, this may be important.

You can restore the rhodium layer in a matter of minutes by entrusting the jewelry to the care of a jeweler. But if you don't feel like doing this, choose a red alloy. True, it is sometimes worth giving it for polishing and cleaning so that it remains as beautiful as the day it was purchased.

If we compare alloys by their combination with stones, then white gold wins in alliance with diamonds - it was created to highlight and enhance their shine. In addition, a white background is ideal for stones of cool shades - for example, amethyst, topaz. Well, emeralds and rubies look more impressive with red metal. Sapphire and pearls are beautiful in their own way when set in both shades.

White gold ring with diamonds 921350B

Red gold earrings with diamonds 912214B

Opinion of stylists and designers

Red gold is the most neutral in style, suits people of any color type and is most often used in classic models of precious jewelry. Outside Russia, it is not widespread and is perceived as exotic; in the world it is often called “Russian gold.” If you are used to being Western-oriented, gold jewelry with a red tint is not for you. If you are proud of the traditions of the Russian and Soviet jewelry school, then you can always choose something special, for example, a ring with a sapphire track, the shine of which is enhanced by diamonds.

White gold with rhodium plated is more often used to create modern jewelry models, incl. in high-tech style. In addition, it replaces noble and expensive platinum in exclusive jewelry with diamonds: appreciate it in this role in a beautiful union with sapphires and diamonds in a women's ring with stones in a circle. If we consider the same model of jewelry in red and white gold, the latter will look more restrained and more sophisticated. True, this rule only works if we are talking about jewelry with an expressive design. Serial models in white gold look simpler and can easily be confused with silver or even steel.

Astrologers' opinion

Both red and white gold are reliable amulets for their owner: in the white alloy, the silver included in the ligature is responsible for this function, and in the red alloy, copper is responsible. Both metals protect against the evil eye and other bad influences. At the same time, gold jewelry with a red tint gives the owner vibrant vital energy, and white metal enhances intellectual and creative abilities.

Red and white alloys are the most popular in Russia when choosing wedding rings. Which gold is better in this case? Experts in the energy of metals assure that wearing wedding rings made of red gold will make the relationship between husband and wife more trusting, and white models will help each spouse maintain their “self”, not lose their individuality and their own interests, dissolving in worries about the family.

Other colors

About 10 different types can be found on sale. Some consider all these metals to be of low quality, preferring exclusively white gold and yellow gold. Others are happy to buy unique pieces to add to their jewelry collection, without thinking at all about their cost. In reality, noble metal of any color has impurities, and the price of the product depends on the percentage of the alloy, and not on the color.

Red

Connection of Cu and Au. Previously, it was called “Russian” and was considered low quality in Europe.

Despite all the positive properties of copper, jewelry made from this alloy can react with acids.

Pink

Cu-Au-Ag alloy with a predominance of copper. Recently it has been very popularized by Western jewelers because of its delicate shade.

Red-yellow or dark yellow. Made by adding zinc to rose gold.

Green

You can often find its second name – electrum. The combination of gold and silver, which gives a pleasant yellow-green tint to the noble metal, was known to the Lydians. Some time ago, cadmium was added to the alloy until its negative effect on human health was discovered.

Purple

Sometimes it is also called purple or amethyst. Aluminum connection, usually 18 karat. Refers to intermetallic compounds. Until recently, it was considered very fragile and susceptible to corrosion. In 1999, a Singaporean metallurgist discovered a method to create a 19-karat violet gold alloy that can be forged.

Blue

Can be in two forms:

• as an intermetallic compound of gold with indium. The percentage of precious metal is about 46%, which corresponds to 12 carats. The shade is rather gray-blue;
• as an oxide layer of an alloy of gold, iron, nickel, ruthenium and rhodium. It has a rich sapphire color.

Black

A rich dark color is obtained by applying an oxide layer to ordinary gold. Various methods are used:

• electroplating (rhodium or ruthenium);
• patina (sulfur and its oxygen-containing compounds);
• chemical deposition (amorphous carbon);
• oxidation (chromium or cobalt).

Gray

A new connection in the jewelry industry. The beautiful color is achieved by adding 2 parts steel and 8 silver to 30 parts gold. Sometimes a more economical option is used: 4 parts gold to 1 part steel.

Comparison of white and yellow gold

Which gold is better – yellow or white? Both of these alloys can be produced in 585 or 750 samples. If you compare alloys without rhodium plating, they will be quite similar: the white metal looks like pale yellow gold. Without rhodium plating, the metals are similar in perception, the same stones “suit” them, but if you compare yellow and rhodium-plated white gold, you can clearly feel their difference: rhodium gives the metal a “steel” character - making it colder and more severe.

It should be noted that yellow gold is common abroad, but in Russia it is not so common. Due to this rarity, it may cost slightly more than the other two options. The collections of Russian jewelry factories include a limited number of models in this color; choosing from them exactly what you need can be quite difficult.

White gold ring with diamonds 921403B

Designer ring in yellow gold D3583

Stylists' opinion

Yellow gold is a traditional shade for European jewelry. Any precious stones look good in it - the shade is not so warm as to conflict with cold topaz, aquamarines, tanzanites or amethysts, it goes well with warm-colored stones - padparadscha sapphire, ruby. This color is perceived as premium and is often used to create high-end jewelry - like these diamond earrings on a gold plate. This is a good choice for people who want to emphasize their status.

White gold is not so pretentious. It is more suitable for business style clothing. Its owner is perceived as a calm, strong person with modern views. People who prefer to be the first to embrace new trends should take into account that jewelry made of white gold without rhodium plating is gaining popularity in Europe. This metal looks original, and it also saves the owner from the troubles associated with the loss of the rhodium layer.

Astrologers' opinion

What kind of gold is better to buy if you want the jewelry to be not only an adornment, but also a personal talisman? A person who relies only on his own strength is better off choosing yellow metal. It will give you strength and help you implement your plans. Well, those who trust their intuition and hope to receive the support of others and the universe itself should prefer the white color of gold jewelry.

How to buy high-quality jewelry and not run into a fake

Despite the existing GOSTs and laws controlling jewelry production, there are always many people who want to cash in on a gold mine. There are frequent cases when a gold ring darkens literally a month after purchase, and white gold completely turns into silver. A few recommendations on how to purchase high-quality gold:

• buy products in stores and salons that have a license for jewelry products;
• require a certificate for jewelry, study samples;
• You can also require an examination using a special apparatus, which should be available in jewelry stores; If we are talking about a very expensive purchase, then such an examination is justified.

Myth or truth on the topic: “Which gold is better”

Jewelry is a part of our life. Probably every woman has them. However, there are always a lot of myths around them. Check yourself, are you not in the grip of delusions? Answer whether the given statements are true, and then check the correctness of your answer.

White gold is much more expensive because palladium and platinum are added to it

Indeed, the alloy usually includes these metals, but most often their percentage is not so high as to significantly affect the cost of the jewelry for the end consumer. The price of white gold is indeed usually a little higher, but due to additional manipulation - the application of rhodium.

You may be allergic to white gold

Partially true. Sometimes, to create a white tint, nickel is added to the ligature, which can cause a local reaction. Knowing this, manufacturers who value their reputation choose a hypoallergenic ligature. So an allergy is possible only if you purchased a gold product in a random place or country where there is no strict control over the circulation of precious metals.

Red gold is the cheapest

And all because it contains a lot of copper, and yellow is the most expensive, it contains more pure precious metal. Is it true? In fact, the content of the precious metal is determined by the breakdown. Red, white, yellow gold of 585 assay value contain the same percentage of solar metal – 58.5%.

The price per gram of gold is different only because of the difference in color

Gold jewelry has different prices per gram for several reasons. The main one is the sample. The price is also influenced by the complexity of the design, technology features, the presence and quality of inserts, as well as what category the product belongs to: serial, limited edition, designer. And only lastly does its color affect the price of gold jewelry. The difference between the cost of white and red gold is only a few percent.

585-karat jewelry is stronger than those made from 750-karat precious metal

Despite the higher cost of 750 standard (due to the higher content of pure elements), jewelry made from it is more vulnerable to mechanical damage. 585 standard contains more alloying additives, which makes the alloy more durable. That is why in Russia 585-grade metal is used for wedding rings. It is customary to wear the ring without removing it, and on the right hand (in contrast to the European tradition of wearing it on the left side). So you need a truly reliable piece of jewelry. Well, 750 standard is used for exclusives created to delight us on special occasions.

Ring in red and white gold with bows and diamonds

Designer ring and earrings in yellow gold D3583 D3584

White alloy

It has become the most popular alloy of precious metals, much more affordable than platinum jewelry. Previously, nickel was added to the composition, but due to its harmful effects on the human body, it was banned. Therefore, the cost of white gold has increased greatly. This is due to the fact that the incoming additives are often much more expensive than the base metal.

The alloy has increased strength, the jewelry has an intricate shape and a very complex design.

Also, the cost is greatly influenced by the demand for such jewelry; they are very fashionable.

Which of the three gold colors can be combined?

More recently, stylists were extremely categorical: wearing metals of different colors was bad manners. But the world is changing, changing jewelry etiquette: today it is not only possible, but also necessary to combine metals of different colors. The only condition is to combine in one image only their noble representatives (gold of all shades, platinum and silver), without diluting it with costume jewelry, even the most expensive. It will be noticeable!

How you can combine gold of different colors:

• several chains of different lengths made of metals of different shades;
• several multi-colored rings;
• earrings of different colors (if there are several of them in your ear);
• combination of several types of gold in one piece of jewelry.

The last option can be an excellent adapter. For example, if your finger is decorated with a multi-textured multi-colored ring, you can complement it with both white and red gold jewelry. The main thing is that they are in the same style. It is wrong to combine jewelry of different colors in different zones, that is, for example, red alloy earrings with a white metal bracelet - there must be a transition. To make this set match, you can add a red one to the white bracelet.

Classic colors

The alloy 999 fine or 24 karat is too soft, easily scratched and deformed. Therefore, its main use is storage in ingots, like bank metal. Jewelers have been using alloys to make jewelry for a long time.

Most often, they contain copper and silver as additives, but there are also other chemical elements that impart special properties and color.

Yellow

Traditional combination of gold, silver and copper. To achieve this color, use one of the following proportions:

This alloy perfectly resists the aggressive influence of the external environment and has an attractive appearance.

White

It is formed with the addition of one of the white metals: nickel, palladium, zinc. Sometimes alloys with platinum are found, but their cost turns out to be unreasonably high. Indeed, to obtain a true white color, platinum in the compound must be at least 10% of the total mass. In the jewelry industry, the most common compounds are gold-silver-palladium and gold-zinc-nickel-copper. Recently, nickel-based alloys are used less and less due to the occurrence of an allergic reaction to this metal.

So which gold is better to buy?!

White, red, yellow and even pink... If you still haven’t decided on the answer to the question “which gold is better,” let’s summarize what we learned from the article.

• The amount of precious metal in a piece of jewelry depends not on the color, but on the sample, so the question “what color gold is better” can only be decided from the point of view of the buyer’s taste preferences, but not the quality of the material.
• The price of alloys of different colors differs slightly - red gold is the most affordable, white rhodium-plated gold is a little more expensive, yellow is the most expensive of the three due to the least widespread.
• The ligature can be of different quality. Often, it is precisely because of poor-quality ligature that debates arise on the topic “Which gold is better.”

Summary: it is impossible to answer the question of which gold is considered the best in quality based only on a description of its color, since this is only a matter of taste. To buy jewelry of guaranteed quality, choose products from Russian factories: in our country, close attention is paid to the control of the circulation of precious metals; the risk of buying gold jewelry of a low standard or with a low-grade ligature appears only if you purchase jewelry secondhand or in unverified stores, trust private masters without a decent reputation.

All shades of gold are near you! The St. Petersburg jewelry factory "Diva" guarantees the quality of its products: compliance with the sample, hypoallergenicity, reliability of setting of precious stones. In addition, we promise that in our salons you will receive aesthetic pleasure from fabulously luxurious jewelry collections. Each “Diva” jewelry is a happy story that is ready to happen in your life!

What is gold purity

Gold is a soft and very malleable metal that cannot remain in the desired shape for a long time without additional impurities. In order to give gold greater strength, other metals are added to it. And fineness means how much gold is in a particular piece of jewelry. For example, if the most common standard today is 585, this means that this is exactly the part of the precious metal in the gold product. The rest is alloy or additives to gold that make it durable and resistant to damage.

Quality assessment upon purchase

When purchasing jewelry, you need to pay attention to some points that indicate its quality. First of all, pay attention to its sample. It is important that the numbers on the tag and on the product itself match. Reputable jewelry manufacturers put their trademark or logo on them. This can be an indirect confirmation of high quality and authenticity.

Next, you should study the following indicators:

1. Information on the tag: it should contain information about the sample, weight, chemical composition, manufacturer and cost.
2. Appearance of decoration. All fastenings and soldering points must look neat and of high quality. A good product has no unevenness or visible defects.

The manufacturer is of great importance. Today, Italian-made jewelry is becoming increasingly popular. It is not worth buying products from Turkey - the composition of the ligatures in them leaves much to be desired. Very often, only the clasp with a sample is made of high-quality material, and the entire product contains a large amount of copper. With constant wear, it will quickly come to the surface.

In general, which gold is better - red, white or yellow - depends on the purpose for which the jewelry is purchased and on the financial capabilities of the buyer.

conclusions

The design of earrings, bracelet, chain or pendant should correspond to the buyer’s image, mood and taste. Usually the shade is selected to match the tone of the hair and skin: on people with dark skin, precious objects made of white precious metal can look cheap and not prestigious. There are burning brunettes who do not like yellow earrings, bracelets, rings . Many people prefer chains and necklaces made of combined gold. At the same time, a precious thing of any shade requires special, regular care. Tips on how to clean gold jewelry in the video:

Advantages and disadvantages

Metals of both colors look attractive, they are flexible, and therefore suitable for creating jewelry in any style. Precious jewelry has disadvantages, the main one is allergies , which occurs during regular wearing of jewelry in people with hypersensitivity to impurities.

In Europe, jewelers are prohibited from using ligature containing nickel

Necklaces, earrings, and bracelets made of high-grade yellow precious metal rarely cause irritation; usually problems arise due to nickel, which is added to white gold. People suffering from eczema and dermatitis should study the chemical composition before purchasing.

The disadvantages of yellow gold rings and high-grade chains are fragility, deformation under load .