White gold - what kind of metal is it: what it looks like, what grade, composition, advantages and disadvantages of the alloy, a wide range of jewelry and cost today

The most common is yellow gold, followed by white gold. This is an alloy of a special composition, thanks to the ligature it acquires a completely different shade. The additives change color from yellow to white. The properties of this metal allow it to be used for various purposes; among other things, jewelry is in demand.

White gold is superior to many other types of precious metals in strength and attractiveness.

There are different composition options, which determines the performance characteristics and cost of the products.

White gold - what kind of metal is it, what is it called correctly, what does it look like: natural and synthetic

White gold is a jewelry alloy consisting of precious (and sometimes base) metals. The ratio of additives determines the properties of the finished product, as well as its shade. A significant proportion of the material is gold. But under normal conditions it is characterized by yellow color.

To change the shade, palladium and other platinum group metals, nickel, etc. are introduced into the alloy. These are metals of a lighter shade (gray-white, white), when combined with the main component, an alloy with the required parameters is obtained. It is called white gold.

White gold ring

Today, the valuable alloy is obtained artificially - from several metals by melting. But natural material can also be called white. We are talking about a mineral formation, which is a type of native gold. In nature it occurs mainly in the form of a dendrite, a liquid.

Its main characteristic is its light yellow or white color. It is electrum, but can also be called white gold. Contains precious metals. Moreover, the composition usually includes 2 types: silver, gold, which determines the color of the mineral. Moreover, the silver content is always different, ranging from 16-69%.

Manufacturing process

White gold is made in two main ways. The more expensive alloy, obtained with the addition of platinum, does not require additional processing, so its manufacturing scheme is simple:

1. In industrial conditions, pure gold is melted, which happens quickly, because its melting point is low.
2. Then the ligature is prepared. Metals that will later be included in the alloy are carefully measured so that their content strictly corresponds to the standard. They are also melted and then mixed until a homogeneous mass is formed.
3. The most difficult stage is the last one, where you need to mix the ligature and gold. In this case, all necessary conditions must be observed, otherwise the product will be of poor quality.

This is where the production of the expensive version ends, but with the cheap one everything is somewhat more complicated. It contains nickel, which not only can be an allergen, but also affects the color of the product in a negative way. Therefore, such jewelry is not produced in its natural form. As a rule, they are coated on top with rhodium, an extremely expensive metal that is part of the platinum group. This procedure is called rhodium plating.

After such treatment, the owner of the jewelry will not come into contact with nickel, but with rhodium, so allergies are excluded. Sometimes this metal is included in an alloy, then the coating is made of ruthenium, which is part of the same platinum group, but is more common and has a lower price.

However, rhodium-plated products have disadvantages, and the main one is the coating that gradually wears off. It is best not to wear them every day, putting them on only for the most special moments. This way the original look will last longer.

The history of white gold and its popularity

The alloy called white gold first appeared at the beginning of the last century. It came to replace silver and platinum. The first of the metals was inferior to the others in external properties, in addition, it had the property of oxidizing.

Platinum is a refractory metal; in addition, it is more expensive than gold and silver.

White metals were popular because they better reflected the shine of precious stones. Accordingly, jewelry houses could not refuse to use them, but at the same time there was a need to use a more suitable material. Then an alloy based on gold and a white alloy was developed.

Various shades

Depending on the added metals and their proportions, white gold of different shades is obtained:

• to get the classic white color, an alloy of 14% palladium, 7% silver and 4% nickel is used, sometimes not irradiated;
• a high silver content - usually 25% - gives the product a green tint;
• to obtain an alloy with a yellow tint, 15% silver and 10% copper are added to it;
• a more saturated red color is given by a high copper content - 21% - with a lower proportion of silver - 4%;
• gold of an exotic bluish or black hue can be obtained using complex technological processes involving rhodium, which significantly increases the price of the final product.

There are a lot of variations, which allows you to combine them with various precious stones to create unique jewelry. However, the traditional white color is most valued.

Possible compositions of gold alloy samples according to GOST

The ratio of components is different, even if the same amount of gold is used as a basis. This allows you to change color and properties. The most common hallmarks of white gold are: 585, 750. This may mean that the composition includes, respectively: 58.5 and 75% of the main precious metal. All other components:

For comparison, there is no white 925 gold. This is a symbol for silver.

Table: sample ratio between systems

Application of white gold: 375, 500, 585, 750 samples

There are several options for white precious metal, among them there are those that represent the low, medium and high price categories. You can determine the quality by the composition - sample. Happens:

• 375: the most affordable alloy, contains a minimum of precious metal (37.5%), the rest of the share falls on budget additives (usually silver is used), the metal is sometimes used in the production of jewelry and only some of their types, more often it is used for the manufacture of fastenings for inserts of various products, production of cigarette cases, watches;
• 500: gold is used infrequently due to its low fusibility, suitable for the production of eyeglass frames, various decorations, watches, often used to verify the authenticity of products, used by assay supervision services;
• 585: universal material, considered the best in its price category, suitable for making various jewelry;
• 750: gold of high standard and excellent quality allows you to create jewelry, but the finished products are inferior in properties to jewelry of 585 standard, because they are not resistant to mechanical damage.

Imported ligature gold plated price per kg

Most often, foreign jewelry differs from domestic samples. In their composition, the proportion of alloys exceeds the amount of noble metals. American and European standards have a certain similarity with Russian ones, but the hallmark is affixed in carats. You can often buy a fake with a precious coating.

Abroad, low-karat gold is very popular for making jewelry, due to its more suitable consumer characteristics. 9-12 carats are much stronger and harder, they are characterized by high resistance to deformation and scratches. In Russia, products with a lower proportion of impurities are more popular: the higher the standard, the greater the demand.

Ligature with gilding imported
Turkish gold is stamped with three numbers 585. No other designations are provided. A large proportion of the alloy is copper, which can be determined by the excessive redness of the products. Gilded silver items are often passed off as jewelry. Jewelry becomes dull and deformed over time. However, purchases remain at a high level due to the affordable price.

There are also Emirati jewels. They contain a minimal proportion of ligature. Only 2 samples are used: 916 and 958. Jewelry is short-lived, so in the country it is customary to wear them only for weddings. Then the jewelry is simply stored in boxes.

Wide range for any occasion: white gold hallmarks for jewelry

When choosing white gold jewelry, samples are studied first, as this is the determining factor that allows you to evaluate the quality of the product. To make jewelry, the properties of metals and external characteristics are taken into account. As a result, improved products can be obtained. There are various types of white gold jewelry:

• 375: most often they produce large-sized decorative elements for jewelry from more expensive products, as well as wedding rings;
• 500: difficult to melt, not used for making jewelry;
• 585: from gold of this standard you can make various jewelry, for example, rings, bracelets, earrings (studs or “studs”, “congo”, with a French lock, etc.), pendants, chains and, of course, sets (sets of earrings, rings, pendants), pendants, etc.;
• 750: most often they produce jewelry with stones (women's, men's), for example, diamonds, cubic zirconia, etc. - precious and semi-precious.

In the production of jewelry, preference is given to products of 585 and 750 samples.

Moreover, they may have a coating. Such jewelry is protected from mechanical damage. Rhodium is most often used. It gives a more noble touch to jewelry.

18k white gold ring

Use Cases

White metal is so popular precisely because it has virtually no restrictions on its use. Jewelry made from it can be of any size and shape and still look great.

Earrings, rings, bracelets, necklaces, chains and other accessories of any complexity are made from it. It goes well with any precious stones, but diamonds or moonstone look especially elegant when framed with it.

Both men and women of any age can wear such jewelry. It is also suitable for small children who are just beginning to form their preferences. And if some more traditional options - for example, gold in the usual yellow shade - may become outdated over time , then the stylish white color will never go out of fashion.

Compatibility with precious stones

Jewelers have known for a long time that a white backing enhances the reflective properties. Even semi-precious stones will appear in a more favorable light, which is important if a person decides to sell a product and get a good price for it. This may mean that the decoration needs to be presented properly. The stone will look more attractive if it has a white metal setting.

It used to be considered fashionable to use silver for this purpose. Later - platinum. Since the appearance of a white gold alloy, it has become widely used for the production of jewelry with stones. In Russia, jewelry factories often use this metal in combination with inserts from:

• diamond (white, colored);
• emerald;
• grenade;
• pearls;
• topaz;
• sapphire.

Historical reference

The opinion that white gold is a different metal did not arise out of nowhere. In the beginning, when platinum was not so well known and popular, it was actually called white gold. And they even replaced it with the real thing in jewelry and coins.

Platinum came to the Old World from America. The ancient civilizations of the Incas and Mayans have been processing the precious metal since time immemorial. Its refractoriness, inertness and high density were valued at the level of gold. However, these properties were not immediately noted. The metal was even disparagingly called “silver” (in Spanish, plata - silver) due to its color similarity to argentum.

The first deliveries of platinum were simply drowned in rivers and the ocean. The Spanish monarch issued a decree prohibiting its import into the territory of his country. Only 40 years later the new chemical substance was rehabilitated. The king's descendants began to counterfeit gold coins with his help. Platinum had a higher specific gravity than silver, and therefore the fact of falsification was not immediately discovered. The color of the new connection was revealed to the greedy rulers.

Even with 8–10% platinum alloy, the coins became white and resembled silver.

The second case in history when platinum was mistakenly called white gold happened during the development of the Ural mines. The new "Siberian metal", discovered in veins and impurities of gold ore, differed from previously known chemical elements. Having highly appreciated its properties, Russia began its production on an industrial scale. Within a couple of years, a method was invented to make platinum forgeable.

Recommendations for choosing a product made of snow-white metal

Regardless of what kind of jewelry you plan to buy (white gold rings, church “save and preserve” rings, earrings, bracelets, etc. are being considered), you need to consider the following factors:

• availability of documents - certificates confirming quality: if the retail chain is large, there is no need to additionally ask for proof of the quality of the products; in other cases, you should make sure that all the necessary documents are available, the seller must show it upon request;
• hallmark: today, most often in stores you can find products of 585, 750 hallmark, the price depends on the content of the precious metal, if the jewelry consists mainly of ligature (375, 500 hallmark), the cost will be lower;
• external signs: gold has a white color (steel, with a shine), but if rhodium plating is done, it will be more difficult to distinguish silver from a gold alloy; you can check it at home - by sound (jewelry of 585 and 750 samples rings like crystal).

Important! In Russia there is no way to return purchased jewelry; this is possible only under one condition - the product has a defect that the seller kept silent about.

White gold ring with stone

In what areas is ligature used?

The admixture is aimed at improving the physical and chemical characteristics of precious metals. A metal additive is introduced when cooking the base, making it refractory. In the process of adding the alloy, experts take into account the loss of metal that occurs during melting. This means that the share of impurities directly depends on the volume of the precious metal after the “waste”. Due to their physical properties, alloys are used in many fields:

• Jewelry craftsmanship. All GOST alloys are represented by alloyed metals. The fineness with the minimum allowable amount of gold is 350, which contains only 35% of it, and is not used for jewelry. However, you can find jewelry of 375 standard. The most popular is 585 red gold. The alloy includes 58.5% precious metal, 20% copper and other impurities. Such products are distinguished by a scarlet tone. You can work with scrap gold in the jewelry industry thanks to a ligature.
• Musical instruments. Ligatures are used in saxophones and other instruments. There is an impurity on the part that is attached to the mouthpiece. The precious alloy part reduces air loss, making the sound especially colorful and drawn-out.
• Dentistry. There is a special ligature alloy for dental braces, which is used to bind the metal and plastic parts attached to the teeth.
• Medicine. Ligature thread is used by surgeons to ligate severely damaged vessels.
• Production of equipment. A strong ligature is used to make many modern gadgets. The electrical connector, microcircuits, and contacts are covered with ligature material.

Main differences from silver and platinum

When comparing different materials, it just seems impossible to tell the difference. In fact, it is quite possible to independently determine the type of product. No magic ritual is used for this, and you don’t have to rely on signs either. It is enough to study the signs:

• shape of the hallmark: on silver items you can see the likeness of a barrel, with a hallmark in it, on platinum jewelry - an octagon, on jewelry made from Au metal - a rectangle;
• samples of silver (800, 830, 875, 925, 960) and platinum (850, 900, 950) are much higher, while the likelihood of repetitions is excluded, which means that there cannot be two identical silver or platinum products with the same hallmark - they are always different;
• gold items (yellow) coated with rhodium gradually darken as the protective layer wears off, platinum jewelry does not have this feature, and silver jewelry even oxidizes over time.

White gold, platinum and silver - differences

Advantages and disadvantages

Jewelry made from precious metals can delight the owner with unique properties. If the alloy contains platinum and Au, then the products will differ:

1. Wear resistance and strength.
2. Resistant to environmental factors and reagents.

Platinum and Au are inert elements that do not react with acids and alkalis. Metals tolerate moisture well and dissolve only in a mixture of acids. If there are two metals in the ligature, then the products will last a long time, they are not afraid of mechanical damage, chips and scratches.

Typically, plaque forms on the surface of a metal during the oxidation process. Platinum and Au do not oxidize because they do not interact with acids; water cannot harm the elements, like air. The more of these elements in jewelry, the longer they will serve the owner faithfully.

These are the main advantages, but there are also disadvantages, which include:

• cost of products;
• thinning of the coating.

If the jewelry contains platinum, then it will be quite expensive. You can purchase the product in a special store, which is aimed at customers who have the opportunity to buy an expensive product.

If the surface of the jewelry is plated with rhodium, it may become thinner over time. The coating can be renewed, but to do this you will have to contact a jeweler and pay him money.

White gold is a capricious material: despite its properties and noble origin, jewelry made from ligature should be protected from:

1. Water containing chlorine.
2. From cleaning products.

For this reason, jewelry made from this alloy should be removed before visiting the pool or gym, protected from reagents and cleaned using special pastes.

Jeweler's comment

Molokanov N.M.

Jeweler, 26 years of experience in jewelry production.

In addition to the main signs of the quality of jewelry (the sound of falling on glass, color, weight), you can focus on price. This is an indirect factor and cannot be taken as the main one. However, most often low-quality products or counterfeits are sold at reduced prices.

Reviews

I managed to find inside information about white gold. Think before placing an order from an unfamiliar jeweler.

Buy factory-made products or from a famous foreign brand (Cartier jewelry house, for example). Then the decoration will not crumble or become covered with cracks.

Excellent characteristics and disadvantages of white gold

Positive traits:

nobility of appearance;

sufficient strength;

compatibility with stone inserts.

There are many disadvantages to products made from white gold alloy:

high price;

gradual damage to the surface;

585 samples become darker;

If rhodium is applied, it must be periodically restored, since the surface layer tends to become thin and scratched.

Diamond ring - white gold

Why isn't pure gold used in the jewelry industry?

The physical properties of pure gold are amazing: it is very easy to forge, is an excellent conductor of electricity, and helps focus mirrors that operate in the far infrared range.

In industry, there are many uses for pure, pure gold, however, this precious metal also has its drawbacks:

• It is very easy to forge. For jewelry, this is the biggest drawback;
• It wears out and bends easily;
• Pure gold jewelry quickly gets scratched and loses its shine and beauty.

Category: question-answer

I choose a white gold ring. Which stone will make it more unpretentious to wear and care for?

Expert opinion

Pribrezhny Gennady Valentinovich

Jeweler 6th category

White gold alloy is quite resistant to external factors, but jewelry does not withstand intensive use well, as it is prone to small scratches. If the jewelry has inserts, then you should double your caution. It is better to choose jewelry with harder stones: diamond, topaz, emerald, garnet.

Tired of the old white gold and zirconium earrings. Where can I sell them at a higher price?

Expert opinion

Grishanov Mikhail Petrovich

Jeweler, director of the Grishanov and Co. workshop

The following legal entities should be considered as a buyer: pawnshops with a good reputation, as well as jewelry stores that from time to time hold promotions - they buy up old products and in return offer a discount on new ones. It is unlikely that private individuals will offer a higher price.

Are there white gold watches? How practical are they? I heard that metal is soft

Expert opinion

Pribrezhny Gennady Valentinovich

Jeweler 6th category

585 white gold is characterized by durability. You can wear such jewelry often; it contains platinum, which increases the resistance of the material to mechanical damage. 750 gold is softer; such items should be worn less frequently, alternated with others, or worn for special occasions.

18k white gold with diosamite

Is it possible to wear a cross around your neck made of white gold rather than silver?

Expert opinion

Grishanov Mikhail Petrovich

Jeweler, director of the Grishanov and Co. workshop

There are no restrictions on the use of crosses from different precious metals. Religion does not prohibit wearing items made of platinum, gold, silver and white alloy.

Is it possible to wear white gold and silver at the same time?

Expert opinion

Pribrezhny Gennady Valentinovich

Jeweler 6th category

Jewelry house designers do not prohibit; on the contrary, they recommend combining jewelry. But they should be properly balanced so that the arms and shoulders are not visually overloaded.

Which grade of metal is stronger: 585, 750 or 925?

Expert opinion

Grishanov Mikhail Petrovich

Jeweler, director of the Grishanov and Co. workshop

If it is important to choose a wear-resistant gold alloy, you should consider 585-karat jewelry. For comparison, 925 is completely silver jewelry.

Does white gold exist in nature?

Expert opinion

Pribrezhny Gennady Valentinovich

Jeweler 6th category

Only one type of natural formation (electrum) is called white gold. But this is a conditional name, because it is characterized by an uneven white color. Light yellow native inclusions of this type are also found.

White gold electrum

Sample on white gold alloy, what does it look like?

Expert opinion

Grishanov Mikhail Petrovich

Jeweler, director of the Grishanov and Co. workshop

You should pay attention to the numbers of the brand: 585, 750. Its shape is also important. The white alloy is marked with a shape resembling a spatula, consisting of right angles.

Precious nobility

Professionals call an alloy noble if its composition includes platinum and palladium. The mark will tell you which element is included in your jewelry. If platinum is used to create the product, the shape of the mark applied to it will be rectangular. Such jewelry belongs to the premium category; they can only be bought in large jewelry stores, the assortment of which is designed for a certain segment of society whose capabilities allow them to make such expensive purchases.

If the composition of the jewelry ligature includes nickel, zinc, silver and gold, its selling price will not differ from the price of products made of gold of the corresponding standard.

The importance of caring for, cleaning and carefully storing fine white metal at home

Basic recommendations:

• You should not wear jewelry during physical work;
• they need to be removed before going to the sauna;
• jewelry should not come into contact with chemicals (detergents and cosmetics);
• For storage, a box with compartments and a soft covering inside is provided.

You should also periodically clean the products, for which the following products are used: “Flyurin”, “Talisman”. Mellerud paste is used for polishing, and special devices are used for jewelry with stones.