Making chains from your gold in a jewelry workshop

A neck chain or body chain is a popular accessory. In order for it to always remain loved, it is worth at least a little understanding of the techniques for making it.

There are three types of chain manufacturing technology: machine knitting , hand weaving and stamping . However, it does not follow from this that any chain can be made in all three ways. Each method has its own specifics, strengths and weaknesses. Some weaves can only be done in one specific way. For example, most varieties of complex Bismarck are made by hand. Thin, lightweight chains weighing about one gram are almost always made using machine knitting. Stamping makes it possible to create amazing fantasy jewelry with links of various shapes, but they will look a little voluminous. The cost of chains depends on many factors, but often hand chains, which require more time to produce, are more expensive than similar machine chains.

Machine knitting chains

Light chains from very thin links by machine . Modern chain knitting machines are capable of producing products from wire with a thickness of 0.15 mm.


When making gold chains of anchor weave, the machine creates 600 links per minute. The finished chains are calcined in ovens by heating to 815 ° C in order to activate a special agent that solders the ends of the links. The quality of a machine-woven chain depends on the accuracy of the technological processes. The technological process of machine-made chains is illustrated by a video that can be viewed in the section on machine knitting in our article on types of chain weaving.

Main types of chains to order

It is very easy to order a chain in our workshop - just a call or online request. But personal communication will be especially productive, comfortable and enjoyable for you. Our office in the center of Moscow will hospitably welcome you; specialists will provide a free consultation on all issues and introduce you to jewelry samples.

Custom-made chains differ in size, metals of manufacture and types of weaving. The studio's catalog presents jewelry chains in their entirety.

The main types of weaving chains to order:

Anchor

Identical links are connected perpendicularly to each other, visually forming a real anchor chain. It has a lot of subtypes and is suitable for women, men and children. Chains with this weave are ideal for wearing pendants and pendants.

Bismarck

Leading in popularity among men. Technologically, weaving is very complex at every stage of production. The weaving is a fantasy connected links, which consist of several multidirectional rings. Custom-made chains with this weave are the most durable. They have many subspecies. The price depends on weight and metal.

Pantsirnoe

A very popular high-strength weave, suitable for men and women, visually reminiscent of ancient chain mail or armor. The links are located in the same plane and have a smooth surface. Custom-made chains using this technology are very comfortable and also have a lot of variations.

Fox's tail

Massive, luxurious weave with an intricate pattern of fancy links. It can have a round, oval and square section. The custom-made chain “Fox Tail” is very loved by men and looks great in an ensemble with a bracelet of the same weave.

Rose

An elegant, complex openwork weave consisting of links reminiscent of rose flowers. This is an exclusively female option. The weaving is fragile and capricious; it looks especially beautiful in red gold. The custom-made “Rose” chain is beautiful solo, but in a thinner version it goes well with a pendant/pendant.

Tourniquet

The discreet and noble design of the chain, reminiscent of a twisted cord, is loved by both women and men. Thin versions go well with pendants.

Glider

Fantasy links connected by a hinge or elastic and elastic springs. Has an endless variety of design solutions. Pairs wonderfully with similar bracelets. Making custom chains in this weave requires the talent of a designer.

Hand knitting chains

Handmade chains are considered the most reliable. Of course, if we are talking about the high professionalism of jewelers, because it is their skill that affects the durability and beauty of the product. For example, the correct selection of the diameter of the crossbar (a tool for leveling the shape of the ring) and the thickness of the wire determine whether the chain links will break or bend poorly. Such defects cannot be corrected. Hand weaving is used not only in small workshops, but also in large industries. In this way, chains weighing from six grams .

Handmade chains

For every woman, jewelry is probably considered the most pleasant gift. Gold, silver, gilding, platinum - how beautifully it all sparkles on women’s necks, fingers and ears…. Today, the price of gold products is very exorbitant, and besides, the quality of the metal itself is not nearly as good as it was several years ago.

More and more people are trying to either restore their gold items or melt them down into a new unique item. This method is very profitable, and you yourself will be confident in the highest quality of your new jewelry. One of the most beautiful options for melting down antique gold are various chains and bracelets. The variety of methods and types of weaving is very diverse. Among the wide range there will certainly be an option that will interest you and please you.

Stamped chains

When stamping, the links of the chain are threaded into each other (assembled), rather than soldered. The links themselves are made using special cutting dies, which are used to press sheet metal. The thickness of the metal is no more than 0.3 mm. Externally, stamped products look slightly voluminous and heavier than their actual weight. Stamping is a fairly simple and fast way to make chains, much cheaper than hand weaving. However, stamped jewelry is very capricious when worn. They are easy to deform and difficult to repair. Therefore, it is recommended to remove them before going to bed.

Melting down old gold into new jewelry is very financially beneficial

Considering that you already have the required weight of metal, you will only have to pay for the work itself. Moreover, you can use pieces of gold or broken items for melting down. In just a short time, you will receive a chic chain or bracelet for minimal money.

Hand-woven chains are in great demand today. Chain weaving and jewelry work occupy almost the highest place in the entire field of jewelry craftsmanship. Such beauty looks very aesthetically pleasing, and is valued much higher than machine weaving. The wear time exceeds all expectations, and if it is made from antique gold, the result will be a priceless piece of jewelry. Beautiful weaving style, high-quality work, handmade production and the highest standard of metal will allow you to turn your “new” bracelet or chain into almost a family heirloom, which you can pass on to your children further. Weaving chains and jewelry work with precious metal have been valued in all years and eras. In the future, such work will be valued even more.

For every nature and subtlety of the soul there is its own type of weaving, which will not only perfectly suit your individual image, but will also further emphasize all your advantages. There are 18 main types of weaving:

  • Bismarck of a classical character,
  • Bismarck flat,
  • Arabian Bismarck,
  • Moscow Bismarck,
  • New Bismarck Glamor,
  • Three-row Bismarck,
  • Python,
  • Brook,
  • Classic rose,
  • Classic anchor,
  • Anchor 1+1,
  • Anchor 2+1,
  • Double anchor,
  • Panzernaya,
  • Cartier,
  • The fox is collected,
  • Fox square,
  • Moscow beat.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 10 grams

Hollow chains - how are they produced?

The technological process of manufacturing hollow chains (some people habitually call them “blown”), which are now experiencing the peak of their popularity, is quite complex technologically. To obtain a high-quality product that can be worn every day without risking deformation, special equipment and careful adherence to technology are required.


The main advantage of hollow chains is that they look very large (and large jewelry is now in fashion!), but they are noticeably lighter in weight than their solid counterparts, which leads to their quite affordable cost.

The “empty body” inside such a chain is achieved thanks to a core of base metal (for example, iron). The core (the middle of iron) is wrapped with a plate of precious metal, and then etched with acid (read more about metal etching technology). By the way, if the technology is not followed, then iron residues inside the gold wire can significantly “lower” the declared quality of the product. After etching the core on hollow chains, a barely noticeable seam remains, but with high-quality production, jewelers will ensure that it is always on the inside of the chain link.

The process of producing hollow jewelry is similar to a conventional machine or manual one. The wire is rolled (thinned) and annealed to align the structure of the metal grains. The chain links are soldered. If necessary, hollow chains are diamond cut and hammered (see chapter below). And at the very last stage, the core is etched.

Hollow chains should be worn as carefully as possible - if a link becomes deformed, it is usually impossible to restore or repair the chain.

Prices for hand weaving chains

Bismarck classic

The chain is made in the style of classic Bismarck, a very good, accurate and profitable gift. Due to its weaving, such a chain will not break and, moreover, looks quite rich. Classic Bismarck weaving has won a large audience of customers since the late 80s. Due to this ornament, you can choose any weight of the product, which is important.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 10 grams

Bismarck flat

The chains are made in the flat Bismarck weaving style, a very good combination of price and quality. This product looks very beautiful and glamorous. You can choose jewelry for both women and men. Very high-quality weaving will allow you to wear such beauty for a long period. Handmade is the most important aspect in the manufacture of such products. You must first prepare all the necessary tools, make the necessary blanks and begin the weaving process itself.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 9 grams

Bismarck Arabic

Unique jewelry made in the Arabian Bismarck weaving style is in great demand among almost all people, regardless of size and age category. This very beautiful type of weaving got its name “Arabic” due to its similarity to Arabic calico. That is why this name has taken root among the people.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 12 grams

Moscow Bismarck

If you are a delicate and sensitive person, a chain in the Moscow Bismarck style will suit you perfectly. Due to the light and elegant weaving, an image of ease and subtle taste is created. In addition to such a fragile appearance, the strength and durability of such a product is very high and long. An elegant addition for a woman with a flighty character and a tender sense of beauty.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 12 grams

Bismarck Glamor

For connoisseurs of high quality and extraordinary choice, Bismarck Glamor is a good option. This type of weaving ideally combines strength and an unusual type of weaving that will gracefully distinguish you from the crowd of others. Such products are suitable for absolutely every person; they will look great both on a fragile woman’s neck and on a manly man’s neck. It will also be a good choice for a child, thanks to high-quality weaving, you will always be sure that the child will not lose it.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 20 grams

Bismarck three-row

The Bismarck three-row weave is characterized by its rich appearance and the highest wear resistance. A wide strip of weave complements any look and looks chic on both the arm and neck. An amazing gift for connoisseurs of true beauty.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 20 grams

Python

Python weaving appeared relatively recently. It is very similar visually to the Bismarck look, but the weaving itself is slightly modernized and supplemented. There are several types of such weaving. The width of the product can be selected individually. This allows you to find a suitable option for men and women.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 15 grams

Brook

Chains and bracelets are made in the Brook style - a very beautiful and modern addition to a modern look. Both men and women can wear products with such weaving and still look very attractive. The unusual type of weaving resembles a chain and track links. Such products are characterized by great endurance and service life.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 10 grams

Rose classic

The most beautiful and massive weaving among all types is considered to be the classic rose. A very beautiful accessory in every girl’s wardrobe, with which you can perfectly confirm your personality and strength of character. With such weaving, you don’t have to worry about losing the jewelry or breaking it. This chain and bracelet looks chic and elegant.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 15 grams

Anchor classic

The most common and classic weaving option is the classic anchor. Standard appearance without unnecessary curls and additions. A good offer for minimalists and lovers of simplicity. In addition, it does not sacrifice anything in quality compared to other types of weaving. Depending on the size, you can find products for women and men.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 15 grams

Anchor 1+1

Looking for a nice addition to a crucifix or amulet? Chains with Anchor 1+1 weaving will fit almost perfectly. The simple look of the binding and the delicate appearance highlight the image and idea well. In combination with a cross, you get a harmonious tandem without unnecessary moments. Quality, high endurance, prevention of deformation and low price make this weaving one of the most profitable and practical.

Price: 450 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 25 grams

Anchor 1+2

To protect your talisman or amulet, you need to choose a good chain. In this way, loss can be prevented. One of the oldest and most practical methods of weaving for chains is considered to be Anchor 1+2. The product looks simple and has a minimalist style. A durable chain with beautiful links will give you a delicate and delicate taste, as well as high reliability when worn. It is almost impossible to break such a chain, so you can wear it for more than one year.

Price: 450 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 25 cm. 10 grams

Double anchor

Products with Double Anchor weaving are very popular mainly among men. Due to its classic appearance without unnecessary additions, it will become a good and reliable assistant for you. The simple design is well suited to be worn on a cross or icon chain. It will also look good on its own.

Price: 450 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 40 grams

Pantsirnaya

If you are looking for the most suitable option for a child or teenager with an active lifestyle, armored chain weaving will suit you best. This chain withstands twisting, deformation and bending very well. This makes it strong and very durable. It will take a lot of effort and strength to tear such a product. If you want to give your child a chain, panzer weaving is exactly what you need.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 25 grams

Cartier

One of the most common types of weaving men's chains and bracelets is Cartier (Cartier 3+1). The modern look looks beautiful on a man's neck either alone or in addition to a cross. The strength and quality are very high and guarantee longevity. A set of large links and slightly smaller ones dilute the simplicity in appearance.

Price: 400 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 25 grams

Fox collected

Beautiful and very massive chains and bracelets are made in the collected Fox weaving style (fox tail). They are usually in demand among women, as they help create the image of a rich and independent woman with a wonderful sense of beauty and glamor. The unusual type of weaving allows you to wear such products for many years. They are very hardy and do not lose their presentation.

Price: 450 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 40 grams

Fox square

For lovers of chains in the form of flagella, there is an excellent offer - the Fox square type of weaving (fox tail). This chain differs from others in its dense weaving and durability. If you choose the right addition for it in the form of a cross or pendant, you will get a universal decoration for a woman’s neck. For any look you can wear such an accessory and look at the highest level.

Price: 450 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 30 grams

Moscow bit

Don't know what type of chain weaving to choose to protect your pendant from loss? The chains are made in the Marine Bit style and are exactly what you are looking for. Beautiful on the outside and very strong on the inside. She will take care of your talisman. In combination with a cross, such a product can be worn under any clothing, regardless of style and occasion. At the same time, such a chain will not look like an unnecessary accessory.

Price: 450 rub/gram, minimum weight for a length of 50 cm. 25 grams

When ordering from our gold, the cost of products increases by 1,500 rubles for each gram.

Further processing: diamond cutting and hammered chains


The appearance of a chain already made using one of the methods can be changed, sometimes almost beyond recognition. This is done by processing the product. One popular option is the diamond cut (or “diamond”, as jewelers lovingly call it). This procedure is carried out on a special machine for applying a diamond facet(s). To make diamond-cut chains sparkle more, the chamfer can be removed from almost all sides of the chain link - external and internal. At the output of the link, there are several faces (reflective surfaces) - for example, 6, 8 or more. Typically, diamond cutting is used on armored chains and Bismarcks.

Another popular type of chain processing is the so-called “chipping”. The assembled chains of various weaves differ markedly from the “parent” weave, and provide an almost endless variety of types of chains. The essence of the knocking technology is to calibrate the thickness and width of the links. In more understandable terms, the chain is compressed on a special press with different forces, due to which its geometry changes. Press dies for chopping can give chains various cross-sectional shapes - round, rectangular, etc. The compression force is similar to that of up to 30 tons of pressure and the resulting chains become very dense and rigid, which must be taken into account when choosing a suitable chain.

Where to buy jewelry

JEWELIRUMA catalog - an updated selection of interesting jewelry brands with search filters | Where to buy designer jewelry - review of sites | Seven brands of premium jewelry presented in Russia | The main exhibitions and sales of jewelry and designer costume jewelry

JEWELRY - CHAINS

What types of neck chains are there? | How to choose a suitable chain? | What types of weaving do chains have? | How to clean a chain? | Waist and body chains | Children's neck chains - how to choose? | Men's neck chains

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