In archaeological museums around the world you can always find stands with household items from the times of Mesopotamia and Ancient Egypt. Next to everyday utensils, the very first jewelry dating back to these times is also shown. The products are made of different metals, not always precious, but even then, during the times of these ancient civilizations, the chains had rather complex weaving forms. Let’s imagine for a moment: no modern technologies for mining, melting and processing metals, minimal understanding of chemistry, but even such rough, not at all ideal chains, bracelets, pendants, belts invariably attract attention and surprise. Jewelry making was already well developed then, before the time of the great achievements of Alexander the Great.
| Photo from the Istanbul Archaeological Museum | |
It is impossible to say with maximum historical accuracy what appeared first: the weaving method for jewelry or for military uniforms, and what served as the beginning for the development of the jewelry industry on a global scale. But thanks to the developments of the past, today, at a time when technology makes it possible to create more and more new ways of weaving and fixing metals, jewelry looks just as amazing, but because of its beauty, grace and elegance.
Weaving "rhombus"
A type of armor weaving in which diamond-shaped links intersect one into another. Depending on the number of links intersecting each other, single, double and triple diamonds can be distinguished. This is perhaps the most universal weaving that looks great, regardless of the age and gender of the person.
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Features of the material
Silver products are suitable for practical and rational men of all ages. Many representatives of the stronger sex believe that girls should wear gold, but silver is their metal. Silver products do not require special care and are suitable for almost any style and any clothing .
Those who love gold, but do not want to spend money on something too expensive, can purchase a gold-plated chain. For high-quality gold plating, 925 sterling silver is an excellent base. Externally, such products are no different from real gold ones. But they require more careful care, as the gilding can peel off. You can wear pure silver every day and not be afraid that something will happen to it.
Weaving "nonna"
Contrary to popular belief, the name of the chain weaving has nothing to do with the name Nonna, but comes from the French phrase “grandmother’s weaving,” which sounds like “maglia della nonna.” With this type of weaving, the chain consists of small links enclosed within large ones. This type of decoration can be chosen as an elegant evening option.
Stone inserts
This season, women's models with decorative inserts have become very popular. Among the colors, orange and blue are especially popular. And, of course, the classic options - white, red and black .
If you want to surprise others with something unusual, you can safely purchase a product with semi-precious stones of any of the indicated colors. Fans of discreet elegance will certainly appreciate chains with pearls.
"Snake" or jewelry cord
Weaving with a round cross-section. This bracelet is hollow in the middle and, thanks to the light zigzag effect, really resembles a snake. “Snakes” come in very different lengths and thicknesses, which allows you to choose an option for both women and men.
However, they still deserved more attention from the fair sex. Often such chains, especially thicker ones, are used as a full replacement for necklaces. By the way, the latter also come in different lengths, and their type and purpose depend on this characteristic. Chokers, collars, matinees - you can learn more about all types of necklaces in this article.
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Varieties of weaving gold chains, their names and photos
In this article we will talk about the existing types of weaving chains and bracelets made of precious metals. From my jewelry practice, it became clear to me that this type of jewelry is wildly popular and in high demand, especially in the summer months, when it is warm outside and people expose their arms and neck. It’s very beautiful when a beautiful gold chain or bracelet sparkles on them.
Gold chains and bracelets appeared in ancient times. They were worn on the legs and arms, and also around the neck. In ancient times, the golden chain was a symbol of power, prosperity, and might.
In modern times, a gold chain can also be a symbol of wealth and emphasize the unique style of its owner. Although they are expensive, rarely does anyone deny themselves the pleasure of owning at least one piece of jewelry made of precious metal.
The constant desire for beauty pushes a person to spend a lot of money on gold jewelry. of varieties of weaving gold chains and bracelets. Their diversity gives any person the opportunity to choose the option that suits them and satisfy their vanity.
Previously, the production of gold chains was exclusively handmade. Noble metals were melted, wire was drawn from them, and then twisted into rings of various shapes. Afterwards, the finished links were connected to each other, soldered and rolled. And only after all these processes was the finished product processed and polished.
Modern gold chains are also made by hand, but some types of chain weaving are made on special machines. Machine manufacturing makes it possible to diversify the so-called pattern of chains, as well as create jewelry that is lighter in weight.
Of course, products made by human hands are more valuable, but their price is also correspondingly higher, but a gold chain or bracelet made on industrial machines becomes an affordable piece of jewelry, since their price is lower.
Different types of weaving are designed not only for different tastes, but also for different material capabilities of people. Some chains, thin and seemingly airy, are for lovers of fine jewelry. Those who like massive jewelry also have plenty to choose from. Similar weaving can be seen on bracelets, since a bracelet is the same chain, only shorter in length.
A chain is one of the most common jewelry. It is worn by both men and women, and even children. It can be either an independent decoration or a necessary addition to a pendant. Humanity has created a great many varieties of chains and, since there is no single classification, there is therefore confusion and discrepancies in terminology.
But I will try to convey to you the information that I was able to obtain that is reliable.
Bismarck weave
Just like “perlina”, “Bismarck” weaving is not included in any group, and yet it is very common. This is a series of complex links, which themselves consist of smaller multidirectional links.
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By the way, often simply choosing a nice chain weave is not enough. After all, decoration can be of different thicknesses and different lengths. And here a lot still depends on which one will suit you personally to your appearance in order to emphasize it as beneficially as possible. Read our article about choosing a necklace and chain to match your appearance!
Fantasy chains
Fancy weaves are created by a jeweler based on basic designs. Thanks to various decorative elements and techniques for connecting links, the master chain weaver weaves a beautiful and durable decoration.
Fantasy weaving looks impressive on its own, without the addition of pendants or pendants. Let's look at the most popular ones.
French braid
Consists of two or three smooth chains woven into a braid. Often made of metals of contrasting colors.
Rose
Openwork weaving, where each structural element is folded from rings into a pattern reminiscent of a flower. The chain is very feminine and expressive.
Lamellar
Weaving from decorative plates with internal connection.
Pearline or beads
A chain where each link in the form of a small ball (bead) is soldered to the base. For extra security, each bead has a fastening inside, their ends are sealed together with a spring clasp that clamps the links and holds them securely.
Byzantine or royal weaving
The “little brother” of the Bismarck weave. Another name is “fox tail”. It is used for massive bracelets and chains. Byzantine weaving consists of links of the same type, sequentially connected into patterns.
Of course, knowing what this or that chain weaving is called is useful both for self-education and from a practical point of view. So, you can always contact a jeweler and make a custom-made chain of exactly the length and thickness that you need. The same goes for earrings: if you want to choose a beautiful pair that will be comfortable to wear, find out what types of locks there are and what they are called.
In honor of which cardinal
Which cardinal immortalized himself in the name of the weave of this decoration? It is believed that he was the ruler of the German Empire, Otto von Bismarck, who loved such chains. In honor of him they are called Bismarck, Cardinal, Kaiser.
This is one of the versions, according to another - the chain with Bismarck weave was named by jewelers in honor of the German ruler, because it is majestic, durable, reliable and massive - this is exactly how the well-known cardinal was described. That is, the jewelers showed their respect for the ruler? Why not.
We do not know the true history of the origin of weaving and its name, but we know that in the “dashing” nineties, the new “masters of life” - “brothers” - liked to decorate themselves with such chains and bracelets - massive, huge - weighing up to 500 grams. The more weight, the higher the status in certain circles.
Times change, and so does fashion. Chains have become lighter, now they decorate not only a man’s hand or neck, but also an elegant woman’s, in harmony with various outfits.
Which chain is suitable for a man and a woman?
It is worth noting that there are typically female and typically male types of weaving. Thus, men are recommended to pay attention to the “bismarck”, wide armor weave and “diamond”. And for women, Venetian weaving, “lava” and “nonna” chains are suitable. At the same time, a chain made using the “python” technique – a type of male “Bismarck” – will also look great on a woman.
As for the length of the chain, for a woman a universal option would be a chain of 45-50 cm; for men, in most cases, chains of 55-60 cm will be more convenient. Although, of course, everyone should choose the option that will be as comfortable as possible and will suit the chosen image and fashion style. For example, you can find out what jewelry etiquette allows you to wear in the office in our article.
Advantages and disadvantages
Among the obvious advantages of classic anchor weaving it is worth noting:
- Laconic simplicity, facilitating compatibility with any bow and a wide range of pendants.
- Wide variety. After reading this publication, you are probably convinced that anchor weaving can take on different guises.
- Easy and inexpensive customization. A few links will be instantly removed from a chain that is too long in any jewelry workshop right in front of you.
- Maintainability. It is easy to return the chain to its original appearance - no traces of damage will remain.
- Easy to care for. The simpler the weaving, the easier it is to clean the chain, and the spaces between the links do not become so dirty.
Among the shortcomings of basic weaving, we can only mention some external simplicity and low strength, which is more than compensated for by simple and quick repairs. After all, jewelry stores offer a lot of much more reliable and elaborate descendants of a simple, laconic anchor!
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Chain making methods
- Despite the fact that in our time many simplifying techniques and tools have been created for jewelers, coming up with something new is a difficult task. Any piece of jewelry is a manifestation of creativity and imagination, which are becoming increasingly difficult to extract from oneself. Typically, jewelers work in tandem with a jewelry designer.
- Chains are considered the most common and relevant jewelry among women and men today. They can easily be worn as an independent accessory, or strung together with a medallion, pendant, or cross.
- Considering the great demand for this type of jewelry, a large number of chain weaving techniques have been invented and created over many centuries.
Today, the most common are three methods of making chains:
- machine;
- using stamping;
- manual;
Machine
- The machine method consists of special machines .
- The metal from which the links are made is poured into them.
- Later, chains of various lengths will be formed from these parts and a lock will be inserted using other equipment.
Punching method
- Stamping is a method of making chains that requires the hands of a professional jeweler. In this case, the master works with ready-made cast links. Its task is to correctly fix the individual elements, according to the preliminary sketch.
- This option is more expensive than the previous one. Its main disadvantage is poor strength. Over time, the links can twist and break at the joints.
Manual
- The third, manual method of making chains is the most expensive and highly artistic. Only people with a good income can afford such products.
- The main reason for this price is the very complex technology for creating each element.
- First, the master winds a wire made of precious metal onto a base to form a spiral .
- After this, the jeweler uses a special tool to cut it into small links.
- When all the parts are made, he begins to shape the product itself using pliers.
- Then, for strength at the joints, the links are soldered by hand.
- After this, the product is placed under a special press to give it an ideal shape.
- Only after going through all these stages can a lock be inserted into the chain, after which it is sent to the jewelry store window.
Solid or hollow: what's the difference?
All chains, regardless of the type of weaving, are divided into solid and hollow.
A distinctive feature of hollow chains is the combination of volume and lightness. The wire from which the decoration is woven is hollow inside, so despite the external thickness of the links, hollow chains have little weight. Most often they are made using complex decorative types of weaving and look quite solid. The advantage of such chains is their affordable price, which is determined by the weight of the product.
Solid chains are much heavier than hollow ones, which affects the cost of the jewelry. However, they are very comfortable for everyday wear, resistant to deformation and external influences and therefore durable. If the links are damaged, a specialist can easily solder the product and restore its original appearance.
How to choose the right lock for a chain?
- When you have already decided on the type of weaving with which the chain should be made, you should pay attention to the choice of lock. This is the element that should harmoniously complement the main part of the product.
- When choosing a lock, you need to consider how you will put the product on. It’s good if there are always people next to you who can easily help you put on jewelry. However, it is better to give preference to a lock that you can easily open and close yourself.
The most popular today are two types of chain locks:
- Carabiner - made in the form of a small loop on a spring, which works by snapping.
- Spring lock - is a small structure with a spring mechanism.
For delicate chains
Both types of locks are very simple and easy to use. Most often, the first option is used in massive jewelry, using the Bismarck type of weaving. And the second one is well suited for openwork and small chains - “Ochio di Pernice”, “Tsar”, “Lavs” .
What to consider when choosing?
So what should you consider when choosing a weave?
- How are you going to wear the chain: on its own or with a pendant or pendant? In the first case, you can choose almost any product, but it must be an independent and original accessory, so complex and voluminous weaves are suitable. If you plan to put a pendant on the chain, then it should not be too voluminous and not overly flashy. Simpler types of weaving are welcome.
- Who will wear the chain? All types of weaving are conventionally divided into male, female and universal. The first look simpler and sometimes even rough, the second are more original and interesting, and the third are distinguished by elegant simplicity and are suitable for both sexes and all ages.
- The age of the person. Young people should pay attention to original and stylish types of weaving. And at a more mature age, laconic, conservative and elegant models would be appropriate.
- Strength. Some types of weaving are distinguished by increased reliability and durability, while others should be worn extremely carefully and carefully.
The advantage of varieties of Venetian weaving products
Venetian is considered one of the most durable types of weaving. The links shimmer and shine in the light, despite the fact that there are no additional stones or engravings. Speaking of pendants, they are usually combined with chains in the following ratio:
if the size of the bracket is 2 mm, the pendant must be at least 4 mm;- large links measuring 5 mm or more look good with massive pendants measuring 1 cm or more;
- fine weaving, where the link size is less than 1.8 mm, does not imply any pendants.
Preference is given to sets that are made in the same style. If the bracelet is decorated with a pendant, the necklace will serve as an independent decoration.
The simple and uncomplicated Venetian technique of weaving chains is one of the most complex - the ease of design lies in the labor-intensive and long process of fastening the links.
Therefore, it is appreciated by novice craftsmen and jewelry professionals.
In addition to the main advantages in classic styles, the Venice weaving chain is popular due to its varieties:
Criteria / VarietyStyle and general appearanceNumber of parallel bracketsSize of cross fastening / Difficulty of work
| Direct | Classic strict style. One-piece simple weave without the use of alloys | One bracket | 3 to 6 mm / Simple |
| Round | Traditional style voluminous chain. Rounded structure | One wide bracket | 3 to 5 mm / Simple |
| Double | Elegant but strict style. Flat and wide chain | Two staples | From 1 to 5 mm / Complex |
| Triple | Modern style. Massive chain | Three staples | From 2 to 8 mm / Very complex |
For a parallel connection, the number of rings that will serve as the determining factor is always taken. If we are talking about triple weaving, then there will be 3 parallel rings, and 2 connecting rings. The same is true in double weaving. There are always fewer connecting links than parallel ones - this is a feature of multi-layer Venetian weaving.
Since straight and round weaving of bracelets and necklaces belongs to the traditional strict style, a variety of double and triple presentation of jewelry can be selected for modern looks. For an elegant evening dress, a double-layer bracelet is suitable for a woman. It will look elegant on the wrist - the staples are thin, nondescript, small and wide. Can be complemented with a small pendant or a small pendant.
Strict straight lines of round and straight weaving are suitable for men who prefer to wear classics and a free style of clothing.
Triple Venetian weaving is considered an accessory of a pompous style - parties and meetings in informal settings allow the presence of such jewelry in men's looks.
Regardless of the activity and image of the owner, the Venetian style in jewelry can be appropriate in almost any situation. Thanks to such a wide range of weaving techniques, you can complement any outfit with accessories.
Which type of chain weaving is more reliable and durable?
- Bismarck is a champion of reliability and durability. The weaving technology allows you to create a strong three-dimensional weaving from spiral links. Jewelers assure that a chain created using this technique will withstand half a century of regular wear without any complaints.
- Gourmet or figaro weaves , where the links fit tightly together, are more likely to become very tight than to break. Thanks to the weaving technique with a groove where the elements overlap each other.
- If you are going to wear a chain with a pendant or pendant, you need to choose a product that can withstand the additional weight. Reliable fastening is provided by classic cord and spikelet weaving.
- One of the most practical is anchor weaving . With proper skill, most breakdowns can be repaired yourself.
The most durable are considered to be solid chains of automatic and manual weaving. A model made by stamping wears out over time and the links become damaged.
