The world of jewelry is larger and more serious than the banal shine of precious stones, the alluring shine of gold and tens of thousands of dollars for “this trinket?” Jewelry brands are true mastodons in the fashion industry. The history of a good half of them goes back hundreds of years. Therefore, the unique history, aura and handwriting of the best craftsmen are guessed at the first glance at a pretentious ring or a modest pendant. Trendy-U will tell you the main and most interesting things about the first of the world's first luxury jewelry!
Rating of Russian jewelry factories by quality for January 2022
- Bronnitsky Jeweler is one of the oldest jewelry enterprises. Engaged in the production of chains, rings and other products.
- Moscow Jewelry Factory - a catalog of quality jewelry and exclusive collections for every taste.
- Adamas - several thousand jewelry made from various precious metals from the manufacturer.
- Sokolov is a famous Russian brand. The plant produces various types of jewelry products.
- Apple. Yakut Diamonds - each diamond jewelry is distinguished by a combination of classic style with new trends.
- Pandora has long been one of the world's leading jewelry manufacturers.
- MineralMarket is a company completely specialized in products using natural stones.
- Alrosa is the leader in the diamond mining industry in Russia. Makes jewelry from high quality natural stones.
Top 10 jewelry chains in Russia
Today, jewelry chains are practically not developing; most of them are busy relocating retail outlets: closing some and opening them in another location. MarketMedia will tell you which of them occupies the leading positions in the number of stores as of mid-August 2019.
The main trend in the jewelry industry today is the development and expansion of online sales. In 2022, according to the Association of Internet Trading Companies, sales of precious items via the Internet increased by 60% compared to 2022, to 12 billion rubles. Marketplaces played an important role in this, pulling sales onto themselves. Jewelry is sold on such platforms as Wildberries, Lamoda, Ozon. The sites sell products from the largest Russian manufacturers, including market leader Sokolov, Moscow Jewelry Factory, Alkor, Balex and others.
Top 10 jewelry chains
1. "585. Gold". The company left the 585 holding, founded in 2000 by St. Petersburg entrepreneur Alexander Smirnov. In 2006, St. Petersburg businessmen Anton Petrov and Alexey Feliksov became Smirnov’s partners. In 2011, three co-owners divided the business: Alexander Smirnov began to develop the chain under the brand “585. Gold", and Anton Petrov with Alexey Feliksov - under the brand "585. Gold". Turnover “585. Zolotoy" in 2022 exceeded 30 billion rubles, taking into account franchising. The network has 928 points.
2. Sunlight. Part of the Moscow Onyx Group of Companies, founded in 2000. According to Kontur Focus, ONIX Trading LLC (operator of the Sunlight network) belongs to Sergei Gribnyakov.
Initially, the company worked as a distributor of Russian and foreign jewelry manufacturers, and in 2005, the business owners founded their own jewelry brand, Sunlight. The first store opened in 2009. Currently there are 397 retail outlets operating. This is the first Russian retailer to operate in a hypermarket format. The network’s revenue in 2022 amounted to almost 9 billion rubles.
3. Moscow Jewelry Factory. OJSC "Moscow Jewelry Factory" was founded in 1993 and is the predecessor of one of the oldest jewelry enterprises in Russia - the Moscow Jewelry Factory (founded in 1920). MUZ OJSC is 98.6% owned by Ruiz Group of Companies LLC (owned by a Cyprus offshore company). The group of companies, which includes MUZ, carries out a full cycle of operations - from processing raw materials to selling finished products. MUZ has its own retail network - more than 300 stores in Russia. Since 2016, the company has relied on its own production, the share of which has grown by 50% in the assortment since 2015. The revenue of OJSC "MUZ" in 2018 amounted to 8.8 billion rubles (in 2022 - 9.5 billion rubles), net profit - 1.5 billion rubles.
4. Pandora. Founded by the famous entrepreneur, ex-owner of the Svyaznoy group Maxim Nogotkov in 2010. After the businessman went bankrupt, his assets went to pay for his debts. The holding company Trellas Enterprises, owned by Nogotkov, came under the control of Oleg Malis. Among the assets was the Pandora network (PanClub JSC), whose shares were pledged to Sberbank. In November 2016, Malis, in an interview with RBC magazine, stated that his main task associated with the Pandora brand was to return money to Sberbank. The network’s revenue in 2022 is 6.4 billion rubles. The chain currently has 297 stores.
5. "585. Gold." The St. Petersburg company was founded in 2000 by entrepreneur Alexander Smirnov. The network’s revenue in 2022, according to RBC Market Research, is 3.1 billion rubles. It currently has 250 stores in Russia.
6. "Adamas" The plant was founded in 1993. The first jewelry store was opened in Sochi in 1994. In 2015, bankruptcy proceedings were initiated against the network operator Adamas-Juvelir LLC at the request of Otkrytie Bank; other legal entities of the Adamas holding also went through bankruptcy proceedings. By decision of the Moscow Arbitration Court on May 11, 2022, Adamas Jeweler LLC was declared bankrupt. The register of claims of the debtor's creditors includes claims in the total amount of 28.4 billion rubles. The debtor's bankruptcy estate (all his property) was formed in the amount of 4.2 billion rubles. In July 2022, the court will complete bankruptcy proceedings, and the claims of creditors that were not satisfied due to the insufficiency of the debtor’s property will be considered extinguished. This legal entity is in the process of liquidation. The company continues to operate under other legal entities. The network has 200 salons in Russia. In 2022, Adamas announced plans to open franchise stores in Belarus and Kazakhstan, but this project was not implemented.
7. "Almaz-Holding". The company was founded in 1993. Products for the chain, which consists primarily of franchise stores, are produced by Krasnoselsky Yuvelirprom. The chain has 200 stores. The plant, founded in 1919, is located in the jewelry capital - the village of Krasnoe-on-Volga, Kostroma region.
8. “Line of Love.” The network belongs to Nadezhda Ryzhenko (operates as an individual entrepreneur, registered in 2015 in the Kostroma region). According to RBC Market Research, the network’s revenue in 2022 amounted to 2.8 billion rubles. The chain has 133 stores in Russia.
9. “Our gold.” The company was founded in 1999 in the Samara region by Andrey Borisov (operating as an individual entrepreneur). The chain has 118 stores in Russia.
10. “Red gold.” The chain belongs to the jewelry manufacturer Krasno Zoloto, created in 2011 in the village of Krasnoe-on-Volga, Kostroma Region. The first store of the chain was opened in 2016. The company belongs to Evgeny Dmitriev. Revenue in 2022 is 45.8 million rubles, and net profit is 1.6 million rubles, according to SPARK. The network has 93 salons in Russia.
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Spanish jewelry brands
10. Carrera y Carrera
Year of foundation: 1885
The company's history began as a family business. Now, Carrera y Carrera accessories are recognized by their large-scale scale, eye-catching shades, pronounced symbolism of flora and fauna, exotic motifs, glorification of the beauty of soft lines and silhouettes, interest in Eastern philosophy and sculptural products. The early Las Manos (“Hands”) and the modern Jardín de Rosas (“Garden of Roses”) are collections that reflect the spirit of the brand. Carrera jewelry resembles mini-sculptures and deserves to be called high art.
The brand's jewelry is filled with expression and rich colors
11. Tous
Year of foundation: 1920
The Spanish brand began its history with watch repairs, but in 1965 Tous declared itself as a jewelry manufacturer. The brand's corporate symbol, a bear, was born in 1985. It symbolizes pleasant childhood memories. The brand's jewelry is characterized by lightness, smooth lines, and bright gems reminiscent of candy canes.
Even in cocktail rings or statement necklaces there is no pomp or excessive pretentiousness. That’s why you can read youthful enthusiasm and sparkling mood in them. The calling card of Tous is collections for family holidays, couple jewelry, talismans for lovers.
Tous love creating light and cheerful accessories
American jewelry brands
8. Harry Winston
Year of foundation: 1932
The brand is a favorite of celebrities for the red carpets of film festivals. American jeweler Harry Winston created a company adored by the world's elite for its sophisticated designs that celebrate luxury. A recognizable feature is marquise-cut stones, round and pear-shaped diamonds, as if collected in a precious bouquet. In 1940, Winston introduced the innovative cluster setting, where diamonds are set at different levels, which enhances their brilliance. Harry Winston watches are also a significant category in the history of the brand. There are exclusive models with rich decor, and everyday options.
Harry Winston was nicknamed the “King of Diamonds” in the jewelry world for his love of exceptional gems.
9. Tiffani & Co
Year of foundation: 1837
A turquoise-colored box containing the world's most coveted engagement ring makes the hearts of girls around the world flutter with delight. The recognizable piece of jewelry with a diamond set with six prongs appeared in 1886. And after the release of the cult film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” with Audrey Hepburn, Tiffani & Co gained even greater fame.
The brand's iconic collections: Tiffani T with open accessories, Return to Tiffani with a signature heart pendant and Tiffani Keys in the form of precious keys.
It was Tiffani craftsmen who created jewelry for the film “The Great Gatsby”
French jewelry brands
1. Cartier
Year of foundation: 1847
French Cartier jewelry is synonymous with luxury and chic. Consider the fact that throughout the twentieth century, their crowns were worn by representatives of royal families throughout Europe! The precious panther on accessories has turned into a real talisman and symbol of success for French craftsmen. The brand's iconic masterpieces are the 1888 women's bracelet watch and Trinity ring. In addition to the classic set of jewelry, Cartier also creates pens and lighters. Cartier is also considered the inventor of clip-on earrings without a clasp.
Rose gold in a triple ring symbolizes love, yellow – fidelity, and white – friendship
2. Boucheron
Year of foundation: 1858
The company's strength lies in its ability to turn extravagant and bold decisions into beloved classics. Recognizable symbols of Boucheron are jewelry in the form of a snake, a ring with a chameleon, and ivy branches. The brand's signature is manifested in the use of colored precious stones, Oriental motifs, flowers and wild animals, and feathers. The basis of the concept is extravagance, scope and courage in decisions. Boucheron was the first to release watches with an interchangeable strap.
In 2004, another symbol of the brand appeared - the Quatre ring made of pink, white, yellow gold and ceramics, which instantly became iconic. And decorations from the Animaux collection in the form of animals have become mascots for thousands of girls.
Ivy leaves are a favorite motif for inspiration in Boucheron creations
3. Van Cleef & Arpels
Year of foundation: 1896
The brand's calling card is motifs of flora and fauna, fairy-tale characters. Van Cleef & Arpels were pioneers in many ways. They were the first to introduce a bracelet watch with a hidden dial. Also, the world was once surprised by a zipper necklace, which, once fastened, is worn like a bracelet. And you can’t take your eyes off the shining Van Cleef & Arpels Ballerina and Fairy diamond brooches in the form of dancing ballerinas and fairies! One of the most recognizable and at the same time copied luxury jewelry in the world is the legendary Alhambra necklace with a quatrefoil.
The legendary Alhambra necklace is named after the palace of the Muslim Nasrid dynasty
Authenticity and samples
The main indicator of the authenticity of the material from which the jewelry is made is the sample, the imprint of which can most often be found on the inside of the product, in an inconspicuous place. There are 3 main classification systems, of which only two are used:
- Metric. The numbers show the amount of gold as a percentage. In the USSR and Russia, 6 types of hallmarks existed and still operate: 375, 500, 585, 750, 958, 999 (bank gold)
- Carat. This system is followed by Europe and the USA. Shows the proportion of pure material in the product in carats, with a carat being equal to 1/24 of the mass. The most common markings are 9, 10, 14, 18 and 24 carats.
- Zolotnikovaya (found in antique jewelry, manufactured before 1927). To convert it to metric, you need to divide the original figure by 0.096.
In addition to the sample print, there are several other simple ways to check the product:
- Examine the jewelry with a magnifying glass, check that the recesses (if any) completely match the size of the stones.
- Pay attention to the inside, the better it is processed, the better the product.
- Drop the jewelry - upon contact with the surface, a clear “crystal” sound should be heard.
- When choosing a chain, try winding it around your fingers (if the flexibility of the weave allows it). It should unwind easily and without getting tangled in the links.
What color gold is better: from yellow to pink and white
The natural color of the jewel is yellow. Other shades appear after different ratios of substances in the ligature. Light redness is created using copper. The white tone is provided by nickel, zinc and platinum. Alloys can also be pink, lemon, darkened, with a purple tint.
The most common colors are yellow, red and white. But there is no point in determining which gold is better based on color. The fact is that the shade has nothing to do with the variety. Decoration with a certain brand can be painted in any tone. Only the ligatures change.
Non-ferrous alloys are usually of similar quality. But the composition of white gold may be contraindicated for allergy sufferers due to nickel and zinc. Adding platinum is not harmful to health, but increases the cost.
Are there blue, blue, green gold jewelry? Yes, unusual shades are interesting to consumers, and jewelers are always ready to experiment. Blue ones are obtained by adding impurities and other metals. Sometimes products are coated with coloring enamel. This option will be cheaper, but not more durable. The coating quickly scratches and becomes worn.
Blue coloration is quite difficult to obtain, so it is not often seen. Also, jewelry of similar colors is more fragile. The green tint is obtained using silver. It is added in large quantities. Jewelers create shades of different saturations: from bright to muted olive.
In the Middle Ages, blue gold was obtained by mixing with copper. Today this method is not used. Experiments have shown that such alloys rust at an accelerated rate.
Therefore, answering the question of which gold is better to take based only on color is not entirely correct. Each buyer chooses a shade according to personal preferences.
Gold jewelry from different countries
In Europe there is a carat system for valuing gold. In the post-Soviet space, the metric system is relevant. Pure gold in the composition is measured in grams.
The most popular standard in Russia is 585. Less attention is paid to 750. Although in EU countries it is quite the opposite. For example, in Italy, decorations below 750 are not accepted. At the same time, Italians do not wear jewelry every day, but use them only on special occasions. In Switzerland, the sale of samples below 750 is prohibited by law.
It happens that in different countries the same sample has differences. They do not refer to the percentage content, but to the ratio of the ligature.
