Specialists working with precious stones and precious metals have always had a special social status. In many cultures they were considered intermediaries between the gods and ordinary people. Cutting masters were the elite and were given special privileges.
In modern realities, the profession of a jeweler is also honorable, in demand and at the same time profitable. The only thing that has changed is the perception of the specialist by others, where the irrational part has been replaced by sound pragmatism.
Profession Jewelry designer
You will learn from scratch how to create designs for rings, earrings and pendants, just like the best jewelry brands. You can start a career as a jewelry designer, make unique collections, promote them and find clients.
Features of the profession
Creating unique jewelry is quite complex, intense and mostly manual work . In addition to specific skills, a jeweler requires a lot of patience, as well as time. It can take months to produce one designer item.
A true jewelry designer is a multifaceted personality who combines both physics and lyricism. This tandem is dictated by the specificity of the profession. Here we have chemistry, modeling, optics, design itself and gemology.
It is also useful to read: Features of the profession of an advertising graphics artist
Victoire de Castellane
Today the designer is known primarily for her fabulous precious works created within the walls of Dior, but her career began with another, no less famous brand.
At the age of 24, Victoire was lucky enough to become an assistant to Karl Lagerfeld, who was busy rethinking the concept and the entire Chanel brand after its creator Coco Chanel passed away. Lagerfeld was impressed by de Castellane's bold aesthetic and playful design. And quite quickly she became the head of the company’s jewelry division, creating many bright and spectacular jewelry during her work there.
After more than 10 years at Chanel, in 1998, Victoire was appointed creative director of Dior, responsible for high jewelry.
Today, de Castellane has become the author of many extraordinary jewelry collections that cannot be forgotten once seen. “Silk ribbons” in Soie Dior jewelry, fireworks of multi-colored precious stones in the Dear Dior line, the sparkle of candles and the shimmer of Versailles crystal in Dior à Versailles - each time Victoire finds a new way to surprise and delight the most discerning audience. And it’s impossible to guess what the Dior creative director will come up with next.
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What abilities do you need to have for your specialty?
First of all, it is an artistic flair. It’s quite possible to develop it as a skill. Also, the specialist must have spatial imagination, which will help him quickly navigate when communicating with the client and laying out the sketch.
Jewelry designing is more of a lifestyle than a craft. Those who are not ready to devote themselves entirely to the profession will not achieve any significant success.
Key qualities of a jewelry designer:
- developed creative thinking;
- perseverance;
- accuracy;
- well-developed fine motor skills;
- the ability to quickly and for a long time concentrate on important details;
Communication skills will also help. It has been noticed that a good half of clients essentially do not know what they want. Therefore, we have to extract from them some images, preferences and other nuances that make it easier to adjust the sketches.
Ambaji Shinde
At one time, it was Ambaji who radically influenced the style and design of jewelry from one of the most famous jewelry houses in the world, Harry Winston. Back in 1962, the founder of the brand lured a designer who worked for an Indian jewelry company. And already in 1966, Shinde headed the Harry Winston design studio in New York.
Where can I get an education?
Without specialized education, a novice jewelry designer will not be able to create high-quality jewelry, even if he has the best tools and advanced software in his arsenal. It would seem that the easiest and practically inexpensive way is to independently study the profession.
But, alas, being a jeweler, and also a designer, is not a specialty that can be mastered without the help of professionals. Yes, there is quite a lot of literature on self-study in the segment, but not only is it scattered, but also a good half of the critical aspects are simply not covered in it.
To master the basics of the profession without an experienced mentor, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort, including expensive material. With serious intentions, there is only one way - to the university.
Offline universities
University programs last approximately 4-6 years of study. Upon completion, the graduate will have the knowledge and skills necessary for employment in their specialty. Only practice and self-education will help in further development.
Leading universities for mastering the specialty of jewelry designer:
- MGHPU named after. S.G. Stroganov;
- MSTU im. A.N. Kosygina;
- RSUH named after. S. Ordzhonikidze;
- Magnitogorsk State Technical University named after. G.I. Nosova;
- Novosibirsk State Technical University;
- Vyatka State University.
If funds allow, then you can look towards prestigious foreign universities. Having a diploma from one of the educational institutions mentioned below, there will be no problems with employment. Famous brands are eyeing newly minted specialists even before graduation.
Prestigious foreign universities:
- Birmingham City University, England;
- Melbourne Polytechnic, Australia;
- NSCAD, Canada;
- University of the Arts London, England;
- Istituto Marangoni, Italy/England.
Tuition fees at such universities range around $20,000 per year.
Skillbox program
If a university seems too fundamental a decision, then you can get acquainted with the profession through courses. This format allows you to master a specialty without interrupting your current job. In addition, not everyone is ready to fork out a very significant amount for studying at a university.
A prominent representative of the online courses segment is Skillbox. The platform offers a program of 4 courses and practical classes , based on the results of which a portfolio is filled out. The lectures are designed for both absolute beginners in this matter and professionals who want to improve their level.
The training program includes:
- jewelry design development;
- creating sketches;
- visualization in the Rhinoceros program;
- formation of your own style with an eye on modern trends;
- detailed study of materials - stones and metals.
The cost of the courses fluctuates around 7,800 rubles per month. From time to time there are discounts and promotions where the amount can be reduced by almost half. It is also possible to complete training in installments.
Theory and practice of jewelry making
The j-DESIGN.PRO school of jewelry design and craftsmanship pays great attention to practical reinforcement of theoretical knowledge and involves students creating their own jewelry under the supervision of experienced mentors. Our work is based on both established traditions and modern trends in this area of decorative art. Following the classical laws of composition, j-DESIGN.PRO teachers will teach you to look for new design solutions and boldly experiment with shapes and materials.
How to get your first experience
Finding a worthwhile order for a newbie who has just graduated from one of the Russian universities is almost impossible. The surest option, which promises good prospects, is to get a job as an apprentice to a professional. For the first six months or a year you will have to work literally for pennies while gaining experience. It is the latter that attracts respectable customers.
At the beginning of a career, a beginner will also have to spend money on materials and tools . Paints, polymer clay, wire and other accessories will be needed to create sketches. Otherwise, you can go broke on real jewelry materials.
A designer cannot do without a personal computer. Specific software and the Rhinoceros utility in particular are quite demanding on the video card and processor. Digital sketches are in demand in the jewelry market, and this is a good income for beginning jewelry designers.
Stefan Hemmerle
In 1893, brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle founded a company of the same name in Munich, which earned fame for creating crowns and medals for the top officials of the country and the army.
A century later, Stefan and his family rethought the concept of the respected brand and focused all their efforts on applying innovations and unconventional techniques to the jewelry business. Hemmerle began to resort to unusual metals in combination with high-quality gemstones: for example, they could easily set a flawless and D-color diamond in iron or copper.
Over the past 15 years, the brand, led by Stefan Hemmerle, has produced many amazing pieces, featuring incredibly realistic flowers and tempting fruits, using materials that would seem to have no place in jewelry. From copper flora and brass fauna to aluminum jewelery with diamonds and sapphires (the latter included in the 2016 AL collection), Hemmerle's imagination and boldness knows no bounds.
How to find a job for a beginner
A win-win option is design forums and large ad aggregators, like Avito or HeadHunter. In addition to monitoring vacancies, it makes sense to leave your resume on job search sites. HR departments of large companies prefer to work in this format rather than issue advertisements.
In addition to the field of jewelry design, a specialist can try himself as a consultant. In a good place, the latter sometimes receives much greater rewards than an ordinary jeweler. Also, no one is stopping you from going into the field of gemology. Professionals there are worth their weight in gold.
Lacloche Freres
Lacloche Frères was founded in Madrid in 1875 by four brothers - Fernand, Jules, Leopold and Jacques. During the 1920s and 1930s they became very successful, creating pieces decorated with multi-colored enamel as well as Oriental-inspired gemstone carvings.
Lacloche Frères, gold Art Deco dressing table, circa 1920. Blue and black enamel, gold. Estimated price: £5,000 - £7,000. On offer July 30, 2022 at Christie's London at Important Jewels
The jewelry house became synonymous with the Art Deco style, especially for its dressing tables. During the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern and Industrial Art in Paris, where the Art Deco aesthetic was defined, Lacloche Frères received the Grand Prix for its jewels illustrating La Fontaine's fables.
Lacloche created jewelry for such famous people as Edward VII, Grace Kelly and Queen Victoria of Spain. Unfortunately, after the stock market crash of 1929, the company was forced to file for bankruptcy. Jacques Lacloche reopened in 1936 and continued creating fashion jewelry until the 1960s.
Salary at the beginning of activity and for experienced specialists
It is very difficult to give an unambiguous answer to the question of how wealthy the life of a jewelry designer is. Many factors influence a specialist's remuneration. Here is the customer with his desires, the experience of the master, and the degree of complexity of the project.
With due diligence, even a beginner can earn quite a decent income . It is important not to stop there, burying yourself in the routine of ordinary orders. It is possible to take this area in quantity, but with each subsequent year the prospects for development are melting before our eyes.
University graduates can expect a salary of around 40,000 rubles per month. Jewelry designers with 3 years of experience earn about 60-80 thousand in the regions. The remuneration of professionals ranges from 200-500 thousand rubles. In the capital and abroad, fees for jewelers' services are naturally higher.
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