What are the hallmarks of gold in jewelry, the cost of 585 gold in Russia

Post updated: Oct 9, 2020

Gold and its derivatives are quite popular among all segments of the population of our country. People who want to protect against inflation invest in “eternal” metal currency; jewelry is made from gold; the metal is widely used in dental and cosmetic procedures. It is used in many areas of life, and therefore people often ask the question: what grades of gold are available in Russia in terms of their quality and appearance?

In its pure form, this metal does not have a bright appearance and good durability. Soft, dense, nondescript in color - this material is almost unsuitable for jewelry work and is difficult to process. To correct these shortcomings of the metal, they began to add impurities of other precious and not so precious metals for hardness and durability.

What is gold purity and what can it be? The answer to this question can be found in the Latin language, in which the word probe means evaluation, test. It follows that the sample demonstrates the percentage of gold mixed with other substances. In addition, these are special marks that are placed by control authorities on the product as a guarantee of the presence of a certain amount of gold in the product.

Types of gold samples

We all know about such a noble metal as gold. It is considered one of the most valuable resources on earth. But in its pure form it is almost never used anywhere. To give strength and different shades, gold began to be mixed with other metals that have reliable properties. So that the buyer can know exactly how much gold is in a given product, the metal is branded. In Russia, there is a decree of the Government of the Russian Federation dated June 18, 1999 No. 643 “On the procedure for testing and marking products made of precious metals,” which specifies what types of samples of gold and other metals there are. In our country, the metric system has been used since 1927. Jewelers use 375, 500, 585, 750, 900, 958, 999 samples to make gold items. In the USA, Great Britain, the Netherlands, Finland and other Western countries, the carat sample system is used. Each of them corresponds exactly to ours. 375 gold corresponds to 9 carats. Its alloy mainly contains silver and copper, and the color can be red and yellow. 500 gold is 12 carat. It also contains a lot of copper and silver. 585 gold corresponds to 14 carats. Palladium and nickel are also added to its alloy. It does not fade like previous samples and lends itself well to forging. 18k gold (18 karat) may additionally contain platinum. Shades can vary: from green to white. The hallmark 958, which is almost never used in jewelry, corresponds to 23 carats. The highest standard of gold is 999 (24 carats). A very soft metal that is susceptible to deformation. At the beginning of the 20th century in Russia, wedding rings were sometimes made from it. They were very massive and heavy.

Gold purity and carat values

In Soviet times, there was a gold standard of 583, but in order not to yield to Western standards, they decided to use a gold standard of 585, which corresponds to 14 carats.

Gold samples tell us about the content of the precious metal in relation to other components, and what does the color of gold mean? Only what additional metal the base of the alloy was mixed with. White gold, for example, can be of any standard, but 585 and 750 are more commonly used.

A stamp containing information about the sample must be on a product made of precious metal, regardless of the shade of the product.

Stamp on a ring made of 585 gold

What does the old 56-carat gold mean? In tsarist times in Rus' they used just such a test; it means that for 96 parts of gold there are 56 parts of pure precious metal. This sampling system is called a spool system, where the weight of the parts is determined in English pounds.

Stamps on products before 1927

In 1899, a new mark for products made of precious metals appeared in Russia in the form of a profile of a woman’s head turned to the left. Next to the stamp, letters were required to indicate the initials of the corresponding assay district, as well as the value of the spool assay in Arabic numerals.

However, already in 1908, after the First Russian Revolution, further changes appeared in the appearance of the mark. First of all, this was caused by the need to gradually switch to international standards. True, in 1908, all the changes boiled down to the fact that the female profile on the brand turned to the right. The sampling system remained spool-type.

What is the best standard of gold for jewelry?

Most often in jewelry we find 585 gold. In addition to the affordable price, the products are more durable and strong due to the copper content in the alloy. Therefore, gold standard 585 is considered the most optimal for all types of jewelry. To create white gold, they no longer use copper, but palladium. Sometimes rhodium is added, this gives the product a cool blue tint. And with nickel, gold will have a yellowish tint. All these metals only help quality gold to be better. The Sunlight hypermarket has more than 11,000 items made of 585 gold. Customer reviews indicate the good quality of the metal and its durability. For example, one of the most popular rings is made of 585 gold.

Gold ring with cubic zirconia (go to the SUNLIGHT catalogue)

585 gold is also used in watch cases. The metal is harder and there are more possibilities to diversify its color. And global brands use 750 gold, maintaining status. They experiment with shades and a variety of accompanying metals. The hallmark or hallmark on a gold watch is placed on the inside of the case or on the strap.

Durable and easy to work with, 750 gold is used by jewelers for particularly delicate filigree work. It requires great care and precision, rigor in the execution of the product, so that in the future the buyer will be satisfied with a durable purchase. Sunlight also sells 18k gold items, such as cute baby enamel stud earrings.

375 gold is used less frequently, but buyers are willing to buy products because of their low cost. Despite the fact that this is the lowest standard of gold, there is still a sufficient amount of noble metal that pleases its owners.

The highest standard of gold in jewelry is very rarely found on sale. Basically, these are wedding rings or custom-made items. They are made thick and have a large weight - all so that the rings do not bend or break. 999 purity gold is used to form the state gold reserve.

999 gold

Linking the percentage of ligature to the shade of 583 samples

The idea that the color of a gold product depends on the amount of other metals used in it was developed thanks to the USSR.

Gold rings 583 samples

At that time, jewelry from 585 had a red tint, 750 had a yellow tint, and 375 had a pink tint.

As already mentioned, the color of a valuable metal is influenced by the percentage content of other metals in the product. Let's take a look at the table of color changes using sample 583 as an example.

Is there gold without hallmark?

What to do if there is no hallmark on gold jewelry? This does not always mean that the gold is fake. Markings may be missing for various reasons:

1. If the gold jewelry is old. Previously, tests for precious metals were not performed or were done very rarely. Also, due to the age of the product, the mark on the soft metal may wear off.
2. If the product was subject to restoration or alteration, it could be melted down.
3. If the jewelry was purchased abroad, where trade in unmarked items is permitted.
4. Jewelry made by hand or made to order may not be hallmarked. Here you will have to take the jeweler’s word for it.
5. Medical gold is not assayed, but you can find markings indicating the composition and method of applying gold plating. In this article we talked in detail about medical gold.

One way or another, do not rush to be disappointed. Experienced specialists will help you find out the gold standard.

The exceptional quality of Soviet gold: myth or truth

During the times of Tsarist Rus' and the Soviets, all jewelry enterprises and retail outlets belonged to the state, it was impossible to see counterfeit goods on the shelves

The maximum permissible violation could be +/- 5 units from the sample declared on the product. But even now jewelry is made with the same deviation standards.

Soviet products were massive. The rings did not bend from strong compression, the chains did not stretch from rough influences. There were no hollow decorations, but the cost was appropriate. Most modern products are made taking into account the financial capabilities of the consumer - inexpensive bracelets, earrings, and other jewelry quickly break due to thin materials. This is where the story about the quality of Soviet gold originated.

How to determine gold purity?

Testing gold without a sample is not that difficult. Jewelers will accurately determine the value of the product and give a guarantee. This is the simplest and most reliable solution. But if you want a more serious approach, then the Russian State Assay Office can accept individuals. There they will help you determine the sample and put a damaging stamp on it.

Brand on jewelry

If you want to sell your jewelry, it would be better to go to a pawnshop. There they will be able to accept gold without assay and determine its value. In order to hand over your jewelry, you only need a passport. And if you change your mind, you can buy it back within two months. Convenient pawn shops operate in Sunlight stores, where gold items in any condition can be returned for exchange.

If you want to find out the gold sample at home, then there are several ways to determine the noble metal:

1. A method known for a long time is testing with vinegar. Dip a gold item into the solution and get results almost immediately. Gold does not change its color.
2. Another popular method is checking with a magnet. If the item is well magnetized, then it is made of steel or gold plated, because real gold is not attracted to a magnet.
3. Gold, like all money, does not smell, unlike any other metal.
4. If you have unfired ceramic tiles, rub the product against it. Are the marks left dark or gray? Then it's not gold.
5. Powder for cauterizing wounds, lapis, can also reveal the nobility of metal. Apply a little lapis to the wet product. If it turns black, it is a fake.

However, you will not be able to accurately determine the gold sample at home, because... special materials are needed: gold chloride, nitric acid and an assay needle.

Tips for caring for Soviet gold

Due to alloys contained in gold, it often darkens during use. This occurs especially actively with constant contact with human skin and oxygen. To prevent such changes, you need to learn how to properly care for them.

• Stir 250 ml. soap solution with five drops of ammonia;
• We lower the product into it and leave it for twenty minutes;
• We take it and rinse it with water at room temperature;
• Next, just wipe the jewelry with a cloth or a soft toothbrush until it shines.

Do not use household chemicals when cleaning.

They may contain alkalis and acids that affect the appearance of precious metals.

Gold price

In addition to pawn shops, you can find out the value of your product yourself. The price of 1 gram of gold is set by the Central Bank of Russia.

Gold price

As of July 2022, this is approximately 2867 rubles per gram. The price of 1 gram of 585 gold in jewelry will vary from 2300 to 3400 rubles. In addition to the cost of the gold itself, the price includes the labor of the jeweler, the complexity of the design, and additional materials (not precious stones). The cheapest gold standard 375 in a pawnshop will cost 900-1000 rubles per gram. The cost of a gram of 750 gold varies from 2000-2100 rubles. And the most expensive gold sample is ~ 2900 rubles. Pure gold is more expensive, but of course it is less common.

Since 2000, the price of gold has risen steadily. In 2011 it reached its apogee ~ 4200 rubles per gram. Afterwards the price began to gradually decrease. Since 2016, the cost has remained approximately the same. However, investing in metal is always considered a profitable business, and it is better to buy gold.

Author of the article: Alexandra Naumenko

Turkish gold and demand for domestic jewelry products

30-40 years ago, the Soviet jewelry market was captured by Turkish products of 585 standard. The poor quality of the purchased jewelry caused a huge number of negative reviews from the population. This is not surprising, since Turkish gold was made using foil. Jewelry deteriorated before our eyes, became deformed, and completely broke due to slight mechanical impact.

The same misfortune befell precious stones imported from Turkey.

Countless complaints about counterfeit products led to a ban on their import by 2000.

Jewelry made from Turkish gold
A little later, store windows were again filled with Russian-made gold. To maintain the quality of manufactured products, GOST 6835-2002 dated August 1, 2002 was approved.

Today, the most popular Russian standard approved by this GOST is the 585th. It meets all foreign standards.

Reviews

My great-grandmother and great-grandfather passed on their former wedding rings to my sister and me. I was lucky - I got something bigger! So, when I was getting ready to get married, my groom and I decided to make their rings based on the chosen picture from the Internet. We collected all the unnecessary gold at home, including old rings. And the master made two of our rings from one great-grandfather’s ring; he didn’t need the rest of the products!

Maria P. g, Moscow

Alisa T. g, Ivanovo

I decided to say goodbye to the old gold I didn’t need (I had one earring lying around, a missing crown), and took it to the pawnshop. The buyer said that such metal is valued cheaper than modern metal. I'll try to go to another salon.

I lost my old gold chain, which I managed to buy back in Soviet times. I still can’t find something suitable for myself. Modern products seem too thin and fragile. And the thick chains still cost as much as a car.

Valentina P., Donetsk