When receiving a piece of jewelry as a gift or purchasing it, each of us at least once in our lives paid attention to the numbers hidden on the inside. What do they mean and how to decipher them? Knowing how to parse the information hidden in this symbolism, you can easily read the data on any product that has a sample.
The purest, 100% alloy of precious metals is practically impossible to find in nature, and in this form they are not very resistant to external factors. Impurities added to metal are called alloys. A variety of components can be added, often nickel, copper, zinc and silver. Depending on what characteristics of the alloy need to be improved, a certain amount of the desired ingredient is added to it.
The stamp on the jewelry is a sample consisting of numbers, letters and an image, which are framed with a special frame. Its appearance is different and depends on the material used in the manufacture of the product. For gold it will be in the shape of a spatula, for silver it will be a barrel, you will recognize platinum by its octagon-shaped frame, and for palladium it will be a teardrop shape.
Classification of testing types
There are three main gold assay systems in the world:
- metric;
- carat;
- spool valve
For the spool test, the Russian pound was taken as a basis, which consisted of 96 spools. Accordingly, the highest sample and the starting point was 96 samples. This measurement system also included such samples as: 92, 82, 72, 56. It operated in Russia until 1927 and is not currently used.
The karate scoring system is more common in Europe and originates in Germany. The weight of one carat is 9.7 grams. gold. The starting point and indicator of the highest gold content is the 24th sample. There are also samples such as: 22, 18, 14 and 9.
The metric testing system is the most common and understandable. The stamp displays numbers that show the amount of pure gold in a kilogram of the alloy. The stamp also depicts a letter that denotes the code of the state inspection inspection for trial supervision. Each assay office has its own and it can be used to determine who carried out the research. In addition to the numbers indicating the amount of gold, the sample depicts a symbol with a hammer and sickle against the background of a star or a newer one, in the form of a girl’s head in a traditional headdress. This system has been in use since 1994.
Correlation of sample values in different sampling systems
Metric | Carat | Zolotnikovaya |
999 | 24 | 96 |
958 | 23 | 92 |
750 | 18 | 72 |
585 | 14 | 56 |
The following samples are used for silver: 750, 800, 875, 916 and 925.
On platinum you can find a mark marked 850, 900 or 950.
Palladium can be 500 or 850 fine.
Reviews from our clients
Irina I had a small problem and needed to find a reliable jewelry workshop where my bracelet could be repaired.
This one was recommended to me, I read a lot of positive reviews about it and decided to take my torn bracelet there. Thank you so much for your help, everything was done efficiently and neatly, the place where it was torn was not noticeable at all, as if everything was new. I can say that I am satisfied. Alina I would like to express my gratitude to the master of the jewelry workshop. It so happened that I am contacting you for the second time. The first time this workshop was recommended to me, I wanted them to make earrings for me. It’s a tradition that every year I allocate funds from my salary to buy gold jewelry. They made me wonderful earrings - high-quality, as they say - jewelry work. I already had to contact him a second time because a chain link needed to be repaired. I'm happy with the work, the price is reasonable, and the repairs were done well.
Artem The gold chain broke. At first I wanted to melt it into a ring, but then I found a better solution. I went to a jewelry shop to have the gap sealed for me. The work was completed quickly and efficiently. The main thing is that the break location does not reveal anything and the chain looks as if there was no break at all. Very pleased with the quality of work.
Sample location on the product
On any type of product, the sample must be located parallel to the element of the product on which the mark is applied. The numbers and image must have a clear, even outline and be placed on the same level. In different types of jewelry, the mark is placed on different areas. So, when applying the sample to a ring, it will take place on the inside of the shank, on chains and bracelets - on the link that connects the main part of the jewelry and the clasp, on earrings - it is a earring or a pin, and on pendants and pendants - it is a hanging ring.
How to determine?
The expert checks carefully before setting the price for the jewelry with or without markings. The presence of a quality mark does not mean anything, because it can be seen not only on real gold, but also on fake gold. Work to verify the authenticity of precious metal is carried out only if the owner has given permission to carry out it.
The main ways to determine the sample of a precious metal in a pawnshop are:
- File.
- Special acid reagents.
- Assay needles or touchstones are the oldest method of testing yellow metal.
Several ways to determine the authenticity of jewelry at home.
- Application of a magnet. If the precious metal content is negligible or absent, the product will stick to the magnet.
- Check with vinegar and iodine. They have no effect on gold and the color of the jewelry does not change.
- Draw a lapis pencil over the wet decoration. If it is not fake, there will be no traces of it after the pencil dries.
- You can also place the product in black bread (fresh) for two days. When it becomes stale, break it and look at the precious metal. If the metal is genuine, there should be no oxidation processes or mold on it.
- Another way to determine authenticity is smell. Metals have a smell, gold does not.
Even after checking in these ways, it would be best to contact an experienced jeweler. After such testing, the ring or other jewelry will have a guarantee of authenticity.
What is a name tag?
Near the state testing mark you can often find an additional stamp with the image of four large letters; this is the nameplate. This sign has a rectangular shape and is placed directly by the manufacturer itself. The first letter is the code for the year of manufacture of the product; all enterprises have their own code and change it every year in accordance with the Russian alphabet. The second is the code of the State Inspectorate of Assay Supervision, which relates to a specific location of the manufacturer. And the third and fourth are the manufacturer’s individual code. If the jewelry has gone through the restoration process, then the letter “P” will appear next to the nameplate, which means restoration.
Independent examination of jewelry at the Moscow Gemological Center
- The simplest type of work is a consultation on a diagnostic study of a stone or jewelry insert, which includes determining the material, its origin and the simplest types of refining (without deep structural and chemical changes), such as impregnation, dyeing, bleaching, some types of thermal, radiation and diffusion treatments .
- The next most complex type of work is the preliminary classification study of a precious stone or jewelry insert. It includes the determination of size and weight parameters, quality characteristics of color, purity (and in some cases, transparency). This type of work can be formalized by a preliminary research report, which is not an expert opinion or certificate, but reflects the opinion of a specific expert based on the results of basic research.
Gemological reports (expert opinions and certificates) in “standard” and “mini” formats contain information on the determination of the insert material and the classification of quality characteristics in accordance with the standard of the STO MGC organization.
For individual loose diamonds (outside a piece of jewelry), the quality characteristics of the stone cut are determined; for diamonds less than 0.15 carats, for other precious stones, as well as for stones fixed in a product, the quality characteristics of the cut are not assessed.
Gemological reports (expert opinions) in an expanded format may include other parameters of a cut jewelry stone (including determination of the region of origin)
Jewelry examination
Jewelry testing from UvelirMoscow
Only government institutions, namely the Assay Supervision Inspectorate of the State Assay Chamber of the Ministry of Finance of the Russian Federation, are involved in applying and registering the hallmark on products from the UvelirMoscow studio.
The testing process itself occurs at the stage of 90-100% readiness, the specialist rubs the product with a special touchstone and after that the reagent of the required sample is applied. If the composition of the metal that was submitted for testing corresponds to the declared sample, then a sample is placed on it; if not, it is returned. In special cases, the metal is checked for its chemical composition by performing spectral analysis using X-rays or laser beams.
The jewelry workshop “UvelirMoscow” is a manufacturer of high-quality and reliable products, this is confirmed by relevant samples and documentation. When ordering or purchasing jewelry from us, you can be 100% confident in the authenticity of the products and the materials from which they were made.
When is gemological examination of jewelry necessary?
When purchasing a piece of jewelry you like from a trusted seller, if we are talking about inexpensive jewelry that is matched with a suit or as a cute trinket, there is, of course, no need for an examination. But if the purchased item, in addition to the function of decoration, performs the task of a financial investment, carries an image load, and is a collectible item, then, of course, it is necessary to have confirmation from experts about the compliance of the purchased item with the stated characteristics, or the buyer’s opinion about the purchased item. In the first case, you can trust the conclusions provided by the seller, and in the second case, you may turn to experts yourself.
As a rule, in most cases, homogeneous examinations of jewelry are required, that is, in any one specialization. These examinations are usually carried out by a commission - a group of experts of the same specialization. But in some cases, the examination can be carried out individually, for example, where the formulation of the question does not require the solution of any complex problems, or the result of the examination is a note on the expert’s opinion, as well as with the participation in the research of an authoritative expert whose knowledge in this field are not in doubt at this time.
A comprehensive examination is carried out in cases where it is necessary to give a comprehensive description of a piece of jewelry. These are examinations accompanying assessment reports, pre-sale examinations for products that differ in their quality and price level, examinations accompanying financial and legal acts (as a rule, together with inheritance and division of property, payment of duties and taxes, alienation of property, etc.), as well as examinations accompanying museum objects.
Where to begin? From the basics
To begin with, look at what types of hallmarks there are and what they mean in the article by TD Serebro about silver.
Each piece of jewelry made of precious metal manufactured and sold on the territory of the Russian Federation is required by law to have two imprints:
- hallmarks of the Russian State Assay Chamber (from 2022 - the Federal Assay Chamber);
- birthday boy.
The content of precious metal in the alloy is controlled by the state. It is regulated by Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation dated May 6, 2016 N 394 “On testing, analysis and branding of jewelry and other products made of precious metals.” Products made of precious metals manufactured in the Russian Federation, as well as imported for sale, must be marked with a state hallmark and comply with the Russian hallmark system.
The testing and hallmarking procedure is carried out by the Russian State Assay Office under the Ministry of Finance of the Russian Federation.
Legal requirements
Within the Eurasian Union, as well as in domestic technical regulations, jewelry is not mentioned, which means they are not subject to mandatory certification. However, there are GOST standards that specify quality standards specific to jewelry:
- GOST 30649-99 – regulates products made of silver, gold, other precious metals and their alloys;
- GOST R 52599-2006 – sets requirements for methods of analysis of metals and their alloys;
- GOST R 53196-2008 - describes the proper characteristics of jewelry made with gold alloy coating;
- GOST R 53197-2008 - contains standards for samples of alloys used in the production of jewelry from precious metals.
In the case of jewelry for children, things are different: the jewelry falls under the category of children's products, which means it must be certified. More information about the technical regulations TR CU 007/2011, which sets out the requirements for this category, can be read in this article.
What is meant by jewelry
This category includes jewelry that contains valuable metals, their alloys and precious stones. It is important to understand that even objects half made from valuable metals and stones are considered jewelry. For example, a gold ring with a glass insert or a copper brooch with an emerald.
In addition, there are items that unofficially belong to the jewelry category. Among them are attributes of a cult, awards, medals, coins and, in rare cases, haberdashery.
What needs to be completed
For legal trade in the Russian Federation and the European Union, a jewelry store will need the following documents:
- Refusal letter , which indicates that the product does not fall into the category of products requiring mandatory certification. Useful for transporting goods through customs, as well as in controversial situations when the client requires a quality certificate. It is issued on a regular sheet of paper and is valid indefinitely.
- Voluntary quality certificate according to GOST R. Not required, but its presence will provide a significant advantage over competitors.
- The expert’s conclusion that the item complies with all accepted sanitary and hygienic standards is drawn up on state letterhead with the coat of arms.
- The conclusion of specialized examinations and checks is proof that the jewelry is not a fake.
Unlike many categories, there are no penalties for missing any jewelry paper. The entrepreneur is free to decide for himself what to formalize and what can be ignored.
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Marking and stamping of jewelry
If a certificate for jewelry is voluntary, then the mark has always been a mandatory attribute. It was by this method that authenticity was tracked, belonging to a particular workshop, and, more importantly, a test was set showing how many grams of pure precious metal are contained in the alloy from which a particular piece of jewelry is made.
Today, progress has stepped further, and from 2022, the practice of nanotags - QR codes - is being introduced on jewelry, using which you can go to the seller’s website and read everything about a specific item: what metal and how many grams, how many stones, how many carats. Now, shadow traders willy-nilly will have to come out of the darkness, and the sale of stolen or counterfeit goods will become impossible - using this code you can familiarize yourself with all the documentation, an expert opinion, and also track the geographical location of the item online.
Labeling will be fully implemented by 2023, but for now, applying the code to products is experimental in nature - QR codes are placed on premium jewelry.
Who has the right to draw up documents
Registration is carried out by a specialized center with a license. For example, “LenTechCertification”. Experienced employees know the procedure for collecting and processing all the necessary papers and will help you navigate the confusing bureaucratic procedure.
We will advise and draw up the required package of documents, and send a sample of the jewelry for examination. All you have to do is pick up the finished certificate!
Increase the value of your product and earn the trust of customers, and we will do everything possible to make this happen as quickly as possible! Just leave a request, our staff will call you back shortly.