Jewelry making: equipment and technology


Complex, painstaking work requiring great skill. The process of making any jewelry begins with an idea: first, a design is developed, a sketch is drawn and adjusted, and a 3D model of the future product is created. Once all details are approved, production begins.

At jewelry enterprises, artists work closely with technologists, because it is not always possible to create something that looks beautiful in a sketch. Unfortunately, the technological possibilities of jewelry are not limitless.

How jewelry is made

Nowadays, generalist jewelers who make jewelry alone are becoming less and less common - the main range on the market is produced in a completely different way. At jewelry enterprises, each craftsman is exclusively engaged in his own business: some specialists work with blanks, others are responsible for setting precious stones, and still others are engaged in polishing. And if everyone does their job not just well, but flawlessly, then the quality of the finished jewelry will be very high.

Inlay

If the product contains stones, an additional step is to set them in the decoration. First, a gemologist, that is, a stone specialist, selects the stones. They must match perfectly in color and size. When the minerals are selected, the fixer places them in the grooves and seals them.

The main difficulty in the work of a fixer is the same search for balance. He must install the stones as firmly as possible into the seats so that they do not fall out. At the same time, this must be done as carefully as possible so that the fragile pebble does not break during the setting process.

Basic jewelry manufacturing technologies

  • Casting. This technology is most often used for jewelry that consists of several parts.

The principle of jewelry casting is quite simple: wax models are assembled into a “Christmas tree” by soldering them onto one rod. This “Christmas tree” is filled with molding mass and baked, and if everything is done correctly, the wax melts and flows out, but the mold with voids remains. Now the alloy is poured into this mold, cooled, the molding mass is removed - what remains is a metal “tree” from which metal products are literally cut. All that remains is to fasten the parts of the jewelry (this is done by jewelry assemblers) and give it a marketable appearance - grind, polish, and fix the stones.

  • Stamping. This technology is usually used to create flat shapes - medallions, crosses, etc. The products are pressed into shape from a plate of precious metal using a press, after which they are given a marketable appearance and released for sale.

How custom gold and silver jewelry is made

To make jewelry for an individual or wholesale order or other product made from precious metals to order, it is necessary to think through the smallest details, especially if the client wants to order an exclusive item. A simple sketch is not enough to start production, although the customer can even simply describe in words what kind of decoration he would like to receive.

First, based on the client’s wishes, designers make a sketch, and then, based on the sketch, fashion designers create a 3D model. If the customer is satisfied with everything, then after approval this model is printed on a 3D printer. It is also discussed in advance what the desired decorations can be made of (features of design and materials are taken into account).

Based on the resulting model, a mold is created for casting precious metal. The already cast parts of the jewelry pass into the hands of craftsmen for polishing, enamel coating or setting stones. The surface of the product must be perfect, the stones must not crack or fall out, because no one will want to buy low-quality jewelry. Therefore, at the stage of bringing jewelry to perfection, it is impossible to do without manual labor - even with high-tech equipment, some stages are entrusted only to experienced, qualified craftsmen.

9. Check

The finished gold product will not be recognized as such until a special responsible body, namely the Assay Chamber of Ukraine, puts its mark on it.

The metal and its compliance with the declared sample are analyzed using special reagents. A confirmation stamp is placed on the inside of the accessory.

If controversial issues arise, the Assay Chamber of Ukraine has every right to send the ring for revision.

Most often, rings are made of 585 gold - such models are most in demand among buyers because they are durable and least hypoallergenic to wear. But the 750 alloy is considered more elastic, which makes it possible to produce items of unusual exclusive designs.

Voluntary certification: why it is needed, design features and required documents

Obtaining a voluntary certificate is necessary for several reasons:

  1. A certified product has a competitive advantage and is more trusted.
  2. The document will allow us to develop international markets.
  3. And also participate in tenders and receive government orders.

In order for the process to start, you must submit an application to the relevant authorities, be sure to attach the following data:

  • FULL NAME. applicant and manufacturer;
  • product characteristics;
  • Passport products;
  • agreement for rent or ownership of production space;
  • copies of OGRN and TIN, charter, extract from the register of OPF, State Statistics;
  • Specifications and other standards according to which jewelry is manufactured;
  • supply contracts.

The document can be issued for both the batch and the name of the product. The receiving procedure takes place in several stages :

  1. Selecting a certification scheme.
  2. Providing samples for testing.
  3. Analysis of results in the laboratory.
  4. Drawing up a test report and making a decision on issuing a certificate.

The document is drawn up on a special form with several degrees of protection. It displays the following information:

  • details of the certification body, including certificate number;
  • data of the applicant and manufacturer;
  • full name of the product with code according to the Commodity Nomenclature of Foreign Economic Activity;
  • regulatory and technical documentation, the compliance of which is confirmed;
  • selected assessment scheme;
  • details of the test report, production analysis report;
  • validity period (no more than three years).

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Materials and tools for work

In order for products to sell quickly, you need to make their appearance unique and use only exemplary raw materials. Before opening a workshop, you need to purchase high-quality equipment, precious stones and metal ingots, which will be needed in the process of creating new masterpieces.

Where to find material

There are several ways to purchase gold or silver:

  • order from one of the banks;
  • cooperate with mining companies;
  • buy old jewelry.

In the first case, the bank will take a commission. And if you purchase scrap valuable metals for melting, there is not always a guarantee that the raw materials will be of good quality. Therefore, it is better to choose the second method.

Non-ferrous metal scrap

Semi-precious stones can be bought at exhibitions and fairs if they are needed in small quantities. It is better to order materials in large quantities directly from the manufacturer. And it is better to purchase expensive precious stones only for a specific order, when there is a guarantee that the product will be sold. And they must certainly have a certificate confirming their authenticity.

Equipment for the production of

You don't have to buy all your jewelry making supplies right away. At the initial stage, a certain minimum will be sufficient. You will need:

  • blowtorch;
  • hand rollers;
  • vices of different sizes;
  • engraving machine;
  • Sander;
  • scales with increased accuracy;
  • mold - a form for molten ore.

When opening a workshop, you can’t do without a set of tools. This list includes:

  • mini pliers;
  • wire cutters;
  • anvil;
  • double-sided files;
  • tweezers of different sizes;
  • set of hammers;
  • binocular glasses.

To save money, some equipment and tools can be purchased second-hand. Only during the purchasing process you need to check whether they are in working order.

Technology for creating precious jewelry

They can be done in several ways, each of which has its own characteristics. The main methods include:

  1. Casting. Technology for the embodiment of author's ideas - allows you to create original earrings, pendants or rings. It involves making a plaster mold and then filling it with molten metal. After complete cooling, the gypsum is broken and the workpiece is removed. The piece then undergoes final processing, including the process of adding stones.
  2. Stamping. Used for the manufacture of standard forms. Suitable for creating brooches and pendants. The basis for them is sheet gold or silver. The figured image is obtained using a print. Finally, the surface is polished and decorated with other materials.
  3. Rolling and weaving. The essence of the technology is rolling precious metal into wire and winding it onto reels. Bracelets and chains are woven from the resulting material - manually or using a chain knitting machine.

Weaving chains

Modern processing methods allow you to create jewelry of any size and shape.

Advertising for a jewelry workshop

Promotion of the services of a jewelry workshop can be done in different ways:

  • Internet and social networks;
  • local newspapers;
  • leaflets;
  • using a sign above the entrance.

Those who rent premises at a jewelry store should agree with the sellers so that they offer the services of a craftsman for adjusting the size of jewelry and repairing products.

To attract new clients, you will have to make some sacrifices, for example, moving your day off to one of the weekdays. The work schedule should be designed so that it is convenient for potential customers. If competitors open at 8 a.m. and close at 5 p.m., then it makes sense to set a schedule different from them, for example, from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. This technique will help you capture a new audience consisting of potential clients who work late.

In the future, it’s worth thinking about creating a stylish catalog of finished products made to order. The main thing in this matter is to present the products beautifully. You will have to invite an experienced photographer, and then a designer, who will help design the photo gallery. There is no need to skimp on creating a catalog - this is the calling card of the workshop.

Creating your own website is another effective method of attracting customers. To attract visitors, you will have to set up advertising in search engines. To do this, you will need the help of a specialist - you can contact an advertising agency or hire a freelancer.

Attention! One of the most effective types of advertising is word of mouth. By maintaining the quality of services at a high level, an entrepreneur will quickly form a client base. Satisfied customers will recommend the workshop to their relatives and friends.

Financial calculations

The business plan clearly outlines the expenses and income of the enterprise. Based on them, the company's expected profit is calculated. We must not forget that circumstances can change and make adjustments to expenses.

Investment in opening

So, we will consider further how much money you need to have at your disposal to start in the jewelry business. In a large city or regional center, the cost of opening a workshop can vary between 1–5 million rubles. The amount depends on the entrepreneur’s strategy. If he starts working alone in a modest room and purchases only the necessary equipment for the first time, he will spend 1 million rubles. Let's look at this using an example with calculations:

  • rental of premises for a period of 6 months – 60,000;
  • repair work inside the workshop - 50,000;
  • paperwork – 20,000;
  • purchase of equipment and furniture – 300,000;
  • purchase of raw materials – 500,000;
  • advertising campaign expenses – 30,000;
  • unplanned expenses – 40,000.

The total amount is 1 million rubles.

Current expenses

Monthly expenses include expenses for utilities, wages for workshop workers and freelancers, purchase of raw materials, and advertising. This amount also directly depends on the region in which the workshop operates. It can vary between 100–250 thousand rubles. per month.

Income and profit calculation

The workshop's income consists of amounts received from clients for various types of services. In large cities, prices for jewelry repair are much higher than in small towns. Based on the pricing policy, the company's income should be calculated.

In the first months of work, when the flow of clients is small, income can be 50,000 rubles. In the future it will grow. As a rule, with a successful start and properly organized work, after 2 years an entrepreneur increases his monthly income by 5–6 times.

Attention! The average annual profit of a jewelry workshop in cities with a population of more than 300,000 people will be 1 million 200 thousand rubles. Accordingly, the average monthly revenue is 100 thousand rubles.

Project payback period

The business profitability indicator is close to 28%. Depending on the conditions in which the project has to be developed, its payback period is 1–2 years.

How to become a jeweler

—What did you dream of becoming as a child?

- Firefighters. I thought that this was a courageous profession and that everyone respected firefighters. But then I found out that they were getting pennies, and I changed my mind. I was involved in sports - powerlifting, so after school I decided to enroll in the Faculty of Physical Education. But he didn’t become a physical education teacher either: a jeweler he knew suggested going to him as an apprentice, his father supported him and said: “Go, you’ll always earn money for food.”

I was hooked on this profession as soon as I saw the metal melting - it was very beautiful!

For a whole year, every day after classes at the university, I went to the workshop, studied, and then began to carry out simple orders. A year later, my teacher went on vacation, leaving all the work to me. I was very worried: it was scary to work without support, I was afraid of messing up. But I did it, and also earned money.

— Do you remember your first completely independent job?

- Yes, I still keep it. This is a pair of silver wedding rings. They are terrible (laughs): there are visible seams on the rings, they are uneven, and not polished properly.

— As for “earning money for food”: does a jeweler always have work?

- Yes. Firstly, in store-bought jewelry, something often tears, bends, breaks, and people go to jewelers for repairs. Secondly, in the workshop you have the opportunity to make jewelry that no one else will have. According to any sketch, any shape and size.


Pendants in the shape of boxing gloves were made as a gift for world boxing champion Alexander Besputin, who trained in Tula last summer.

Again, handmade: even two identical rings will never be the same. I once had an order from Israel: a girl asked for ordinary congo earrings (rings). There are plenty of them in stores, but she wanted handmade ones.


Weave bracelet "Pharaoh" and lock "Box". The jeweler says that this was his most difficult job in a year.

— What talents and qualities are needed to work as a jeweler?

– You need to have perseverance, hard work and communication skills. The ability to communicate is very important - you work not only with metals and stones, but primarily with people. As for talent, today you don’t have to be an artist to work in the jewelry industry: in our age, most products are made using a 3D computer model.

What ails jewelers

— Do jewelers have occupational diseases? Is the work harmful?

– Not that it’s harmful... But it has its “sores”. Astigmatism develops from working with small details and constant eye strain. Your hands suffer, sometimes they become calloused and bloody, and it’s inconvenient to work with gloves.

When sandpaper is used, gold and silver dust hangs in the air, which you breathe, and it never leaves your lungs.

If a jeweler is burned after death, I am sure that 5 grams of pure gold will remain (laughs). You can slightly reduce this harmful nuance: install a Chizhevsky chandelier, have more flowers in the workshop, or keep the window open.

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