Jewelry with inlay. The logic of their acquisition.

How brown shades are made

Gemologists and jewelers know everything about a cognac diamond - how it turns out, what its structure is, how it is processed and how much it costs. The stone is formed due to impurities of iron, lithium or nitrogen. Colored diamonds account for 2% of all diamonds found in nature, and cognac diamonds account for only a small share.

Often, the cognac color is due to inclusions of not only iron, but also nickel. The percentage of impurities determines the brightness of the color. Such a stone has been known for a long time, was expensive in the past, and was considered an indicator of status. Centuries ago, only royalty wore it - ordinary people, even powerful aristocrats, could not afford such a product.

Stone the color of strong drink

In the 70s of the last century, a cape colored diamond with nitrogen inclusions was found in Australian mines. The impurity gives the stone a tint and reduces the transparency of the crystal. Although this is a jewelry gem, it is cheaper than a transparent fancy gem and is available to the masses. The fashion for such diamonds began in the current millennium after an exhibition held in Basel, the highlight of which was the Pasquale Bruni collection. The brand's jewelry made an incredible impression on the public, and the price of stones jumped sharply.

Problem #1: vulnerability of inlaid stones.

One of the negative aspects of inlaid jewelry is that the stones are very easy to damage. Precisely because the crystals do not have special fastenings (teeth or other elements) that serve as protection against falling out, the path is open for them to fall out of the frame at any moment. Therefore, you must always be very careful when wearing inlaid jewelry and protect it from impacts and other mechanical damage, as they easily break and fall out of the frame.

What should I do if my inlaid gemstone is irreparably damaged or lost? Of course, you can always replace it, but there is an inconvenience: the new stone must be exactly the same shape as the previous one in order to be placed in the channel, and in addition, the special processing of the stone (besides the money to buy it) done on ordering from a jewelry carver will cost you a considerable amount, and it’s not a fact that the new crystal will fit perfectly.

History of Cognac Diamonds

Yellow and brown diamonds are formed in the same way as transparent ones - in alluvial pipes. A combination of intense heat and high pressure is required for the stone to appear. Over millions of years, the crystal lattice is deformed, and impurities of other compounds appear. The shade depends on the type of impurity (crystalline nitrogen, iron, nickel) and the concentration of inclusions in the crystal.

In the history of mankind, brown crystal has been known for a long time, but the capes discovered in Australia, the most fashionable now, were initially considered technical. Their extraction began already in the middle of the last century. The first copies were sent to industry, for scientific research, and into the field of high technology. The properties of brown stone are similar to those of transparent stone, so the mineral is applicable in parts of equipment that require refraction, resistance, hardness, durability, and load-bearing strength.

Stone is a fashion favorite

Pascal Bruni was the first to see the jewelry potential in technical stones. The rings, necklaces, and earrings he created, presented at the exhibition in 2001, stunned the public. To get more people willing to buy, the brand came up with an advertising campaign, focusing on the similarity of the color to the noble drink. The manufacturer also hinted that the Australian mines would soon be depleted. The marketing worked: the collection was completely sold during the exhibition. A recent underdog has turned into a favorite - as happened previously with the black diamond promoted by Fawaz Gruosi in the 90s.

Should I buy jewelry set with precious stones?

After you have learned about so many shortcomings inherent in inlaid jewelry, you may completely lose the desire to purchase them. However, don't be upset. We in no way want to discourage you from admiring inlaid gemstones - our goal is simply to inform potential buyers of what to be careful about when purchasing inlaid jewelry. Therefore, if you are a fan and connoisseur of this type of jewelry, do not refuse your desired purchase. Just remember to protect them from strong mechanical influences, regularly check the fastening of the stones, re-fix them in a timely manner, and clean only by hand, avoiding using ultrasonic cleaners.

Classification

Current breakdown of processed crystals by category:

• elite - fancy, bright, richly colored crystals without nitrogen impurities;
• Cape - yellowish brown, cognac stones, the structure of which contains nitrogen molecules. Due to this impurity, transparency deteriorates and density decreases. This reduces the quality of the stone somewhat.

Classification by color:

• champagne - light, almost yellow specimens with an additional tint;
• brown - most common;
• chocolate - the rarest;
• cognac ones are the most interesting for the public, as well as the most famous (the entire group is named after this color).

In certificates for crystals, color is described by gradation from very light champagne to dark cognac.

Precious crystal

In everyday life, when describing color, they resort to associations - they compare the color of a stone with honey, hazelnuts, gold, bronze, walnuts, coffee beans, cinnamon.

Black and brown diamonds are divided into categories based on their properties and quality, taking into account the richness of their tonality. The more intense the shade, the more expensive the specimen.

Jewelry value

Colored diamonds with bright, rich colors are rare stones. They are more valuable than transparent specimens, but the price depends on the characteristics of the gem. Cape stones account for less than 2% of the world's total diamond production, and demand is growing from year to year.

Market research has shown that the price of clear diamonds has increased by 75% over the past 15 years. Growth on colored plants depends on color and reaches 300%. Even the cheapest fancy stones show a greater increase in jewelry value than their transparent counterparts.

The price of stone increases from year to year

Experts believe that the trend will continue; cognac stones will become even more expensive over the years. This is due to the reduction in mining volumes, the fashion wave, and jewelry already created with brown crystals.

Jewelry with brown diamonds

The main share of jewelry with cognac diamonds on the Russian market is products inlaid with Yakut diamonds.

Stylists recommend combining brown stones with pink and yellow gold. In a frame made of light, white metal, the crystal loses its saturation and color, turns pale and looks cheaper.

It is believed that cognac diamonds in jewelry are an indicator of the taste and status of the owner. These are exquisite things that not everyone can afford. They are suitable for any age, appropriate for any occasion. When choosing products for a specific event, take into account the color features and style of the accompaniment. Small stones are suitable for everyday wear; large fancy diamonds complemented with transparent crystals are worn with an evening or cocktail dress.

Diamonds are appropriate for everyday use and for special occasions

Modest rings and stud earrings inlaid with stones can be worn even to the office. Dark large earrings and necklaces go well with expensive clothes and will make a splash at an evening party. Men are advised to wear cufflinks and tie clips with light crystals - such image elements can be used daily. For special occasions, choose large rings with dark stones, gold bracelets with chocolate and coffee diamonds.

When planning to combine several jewelry with diamonds, they are selected so that the same shade is present throughout.

Diamond watches: bright prospects

Despite the problems that have recently plagued the global economy, watches encrusted with diamonds do not lose their relevance. Long gone are the days when diamond models were considered just one of many subcategories in the watch industry. Today they represent a completely independent industry, continuously growing and developing.

Diamonds of all shapes and shades

“Over the past few years, demand for diamond watches, both for women and men, has grown incredibly,” says Harry Winston President Frederic de Narp. “Women consider such watches to be a delightful manifestation of femininity, sophistication and good taste. Diamonds, in fact, have become an integral part of women's models, both evening and sports. The popularity of men’s models encrusted with diamonds is also steadily growing.”

The history of diamond watches dates back to the time of Calvin, who introduced a ban on jewelry in the 16th century.

“In the era of Calvin, when no one had ever heard of watchmakers, Geneva was the center of jewelry art,” says Hublot CEO Jean-Claude Biver. — Since then, watchmaking and jewelry craftsmanship have been inextricably linked. Watches will always be associated with precious stones, especially given the fact that in our time watches have turned from a tool for displaying time into a wrist-mounted means of information indicating the status of its owner.”

Nowadays, diamonds serve as a goal, an object of desire - everyone strives to own them. And when a person can finally afford to buy his first diamond watch, this purchase brings him a great sense of satisfaction.

“Diamond watches represent a dream,” says Dior President Laurence Nicolas. — In most cases, indexes or bezels are decorated with diamonds. We use them in some of our Dior VIII Grand Bal models with our signature “inverted” caliber. In models of this line, the openwork, inlaid rotor is placed on the dial, which gives the watch a special charm and emphasizes the luxury of the lush “ball gown” on the dial.”

The Baume & Mercier brand is famous for its prestigious watches, and demand for diamond-encrusted models continues to grow, according to Rudy Chavez, president of the brand's North American division. “Women's steel watches with diamonds are a big hit because they go equally well with a business suit or an evening gown,” he says. “This year, our Linea collection has been replenished with models in a larger 32 mm steel case with diamonds in quartz and self-winding mechanical versions. The steel bracelet can easily be replaced with a black satin strap, more appropriate for a gala evening.”

It looks like diamond watches, in all their dazzling varieties, have a bright future ahead of them. “Models with diamonds will always be in demand, since diamonds are an integral part of our corporate identity and the essence of our craftsmanship,” says Michel Pitteloux, head of Graff Luxury Watches. — Our models with diamonds are a huge success. The Graff brand is known for its products with rare, unusual diamonds. Under the influence of our achievements in jewelry, our individual style in watchmaking was formed. Our jewelry models are especially in great demand in the countries of the Middle East and Asia.”

Diamond-encrusted watches represent a significant part of the range of some brands. “The majority of Franck Muller and Backes & Strauss sales come from diamond models,” says Ron Jackson, head of Franck Muller North America. — Especially in the segment of female models. We are confident in the enormous potential of jewelry watches! That’s why we continue to release models with diamonds from existing collections, and also offer new women’s and men’s jewelry lines. However, it is worth noting that in the North American market the demand for women's diamond models significantly exceeds men's.”

Cartier, the jeweler among watchmakers, recognizes the continued popularity of diamond watches. “Today, diamonds have literally flooded the market, especially in the women’s segment,” says Thierry Lamouroux (Cartier). — Most women's models are decorated with diamonds, from individual hour markers to full dial inlay. This is a strong trend that will define watch fashion for many years to come. Diamonds have always been associated with femininity and beauty in watchmaking, and that’s how it should be.”

Tissot, one of the largest brands of the Swatch Group, has decided to expand its range of diamond models in response to growing demand. “For many women, watches remain more of a decoration, which is why diamond models are especially popular among American women,” says Sharon Bunten, president of Tissot North America. “Diamonds are forever.”

“Our diamond watches have been extremely successful,” says Frédérique Constant founder Aletta Stas. — The dials and cases of models from the Ladies Automatic collection, including our best-selling Double Heart Beat, are set with diamonds. I think this trend will continue. Diamonds give watches a special femininity and distinguish them from men's models. Some women consider watches as jewelry and therefore choose models with diamonds.”

Quality assessment, blood diamonds and certification

The quality of diamonds becomes especially important depending on the price of the model. In entry-level models, the quality of stones does not play a big role, however, as the price increases, the requirements for clarity, color, carat weight and cut - the famous “4 Cs” - begin to increase. key parameters for grading a diamond. In 2000, the world was faced with the problem of “blood” diamonds mined in military conflict zones, which led to the formation of the Kimberley Process certification system in January 2003. Watch companies understand how important it is to ensure that only legal diamonds are used.

“The problem of blood diamonds is more acute than ever, and therefore it is extremely important that when purchasing a diamond, the client requires a certificate of its origin,” says Frederic de Narp (Harry Winston). “The diamonds used in Harry Winston watches are purchased from suppliers that comply with all the requirements of the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme and the Assurance Scheme, two regulatory systems for regulating the diamond trade.”

The watch industry quickly joined the Kimberley Process by adopting its certification system. “The industry, I think, has taken a decisive approach to the issue of blood diamonds, and all the major brands have taken the issue seriously,” said Rudy Chavez of Baume & Mercier. — In August 2011, Baume & Mercier joined the Responsible Jewelery Council (RJC). All RJC members are audited by independent auditors to ensure that the company's activities comply with the strict RJC Rules and Regulations.”

The diamonds themselves are often certified by independent gemological laboratories. “All the diamonds in our watches are carefully checked by our experienced experts,” says Michelle Pittelou (Graff). — All large stones in watches (usually weighing over 1 carat) receive a special certificate. For example, when you purchase a MasterGraff diamond-encrusted tourbillon, you will receive 24 GIA (Gemological Institute of America) certificates, one for each stone that adorns the model's bezel! In addition, in our work we adhere to the norms of the Kimberley Process and other international certification systems in order to prevent the spread of “blood” diamonds. Therefore, our customers have no reason to worry.”

“For the best stones, we turn to our network of experienced professionals with impeccable reputations,” says Jean-Frédéric Dufour, president of the Zenith watch brand. — The company cooperates with a well-known diamond supplier and an experienced jeweler from Geneva. They are among the best craftsmen and carry out orders for the largest companies in the watch and jewelry industry. Zenith, which values ​​integrity, legality, transparency and efficient management above all else, has implemented a number of processes in its production that have enabled it to achieve RJC certification. The Council for Responsible Jewelry Practices ensures that businesses operate to the highest ethical, social and environmental standards.”

Compliance with all rules and regulations requires a sincere dedication to high ideals, and the best in the industry choose the path of social consciousness. “Frédérique Constant only buys diamonds that comply with the Kimberley Process standards,” says Aletta Stas. “Moreover, the issues of fair competition and environmental protection are becoming increasingly important, and I believe this is as it should be. Every person has the right to be treated fairly, and we all have a role to play in improving the lives of humanity.”

So, the future is in diamond watches of all shapes and sizes.

Council for Responsible Jewelry Practices

The Responsible Jewelery Council (RJC) is an international non-profit organization created to increase consumer confidence in the jewelry industry by promoting responsible business practices in the mining and trading of diamonds, gold and platinum group metals.

The council's goal is to define and promote responsible practices in the jewelry industry through a certification system developed in close collaboration with numerous industry stakeholders.

Any enterprise or association involved in the mining and trading of diamonds, gold and platinum group metals, or directly related to them, can become a member of the council.

RJC Mission

Implement responsible ethical, social and environmental business practices that respect human rights at all levels of mining and trading of diamonds, gold and platinum group metals - from the mine to the jewelry store.

Read more about RJC's activities on the website www.responsiblejewellery.com.

Diamond clarity and color rating system

The quality of diamonds is determined based on their clarity on the following scale: Flawless (clean), VVS1 and VVS2 (with very small inclusions), VS1 and VS2 (with minor inclusions), and SI1 and SI2 (with small noticeable inclusions). However, all stones of clarity above SI2 are considered “visually clear”, since defects (inclusions) in such diamonds cannot be detected with the naked eye.

Diamond color is graded on a scale from D to Z. Diamonds of color D, E and F are known as “colorless.” Typically, a D grade is awarded to larger stones whose size allows for a more accurate determination of their color. Smaller colorless diamonds used in the watch industry are assigned an E or F color due to the difficulty of grading due to their small size.

Source: Europa Star magazine January-February 2013

How to spot a fake

Natural brown diamonds are rare and in great demand. This led to the appearance of counterfeits on sale. Often moissanites, cubic zirconias, and sometimes artificially colored transparent diamonds are sold under the guise of diamonds. It is difficult to visually distinguish a high-quality specimen, so the optimal solution is to show the item you like to a jeweler for an independent examination.

Ways to verify the authenticity of a stone:

• Request a quality certificate. A diamond is always accompanied by a document recording its weight, mineral composition, and place of origin.
• Examine the stone at tenfold magnification. There are definitely voids and small cracks in the cape. The color of natural stone is uniform. If there are no defects, you have either a refined stone or an imitation.
• Request a gemological examination. During the inspection, a specialist will examine the characteristics of the specimen and give a reliable conclusion about its origin.
• Analyze the price. A carat of cognac gem costs from $4,000. If the price tag is lower, they say with confidence that it is a fake.

Diamonds are often counterfeited

Problem #3: Rings are difficult to resize.

If you have a ring set with precious stones, you need to know that changing its original size will be very problematic.

If you trace the position of the ring rim along its entire length, you can see the bends provided for by its model. The deformation that is inevitable when changing size can cause stones to fracture or fall out.

The classic way to change the size of a ring by inlay is to bend only the lower part of the band, where there are no stones, which makes the shape of the band slightly oval.

Another way is to first remove the stones, then “adjust” the rim to size, and glue them back into place. However, there is always the possibility of deformation of the channels designed to find stones, which means that after changing the size of the ring, the stones may not fit them.

Because of all the listed difficulties, the original size of the inlaid ring is either not changed at all, or only to a smaller one (as a last resort).

Investing in Brown Diamonds

Jewelry is a popular investment destination, and fancy diamonds are one of the most profitable sectors. Research is regularly conducted to determine the prospects of investing in colored diamonds and other jewelry rarities. Based on the results of the latest market analysis, experts assured that cognac diamonds will soon become the most sought-after fancy diamond. Over the first decade of this century, yellow and brown diamonds have already increased in price by 180%, the results of the next decade exceeded 200%.

Auction trading analysts noted that prices for fancy diamonds are now higher than in the past. The most valuable are rare specimens - these include brown ones. The most suitable diamonds for investment are champagne, cognac, chocolate, and walnut-colored diamonds.