How has jewelry fashion changed over the past 100 years?
Fashion reflects the needs of the era. Hence the artistic, artsy style of the “lost” generation. Strict forms and practicality of the post-war era. A course towards individuality in the 21st century.
Historical cataclysms and transformations gave impetus to the development of new forms, themes, and ideals in jewelry design. After all, accessories are the “exclamation mark of a woman’s outfit.” Therefore, speaking about the history of fashion, it is impossible to ignore the question of how views on jewelry in general and costume jewelry in particular have changed.
Today we will find out which jewelry has been popular for many decades, and which ones have sunk into oblivion and remain only in collectors' boxes.
How fashion for jewelry has changed over 100 years
Sequins for jewelry: why not?
The Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry collection is an original take on jewelry. Now they can be created using metallic sparkles. Each piece of jewelry looks gentle, romantic, and sophisticated. The design of the necklace consists of thin round plates of different shapes, and in the center of each sequin there is always a shining diamond. The collection consists of a three-row collar necklace, pendant on a chain, which consist of rose gold, white mother-of-pearl, red carnelian, black onyx and green chrysoprase.
Auction record for the Sakura diamond
Christie’s announced that the top lot of the Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels auction on May 23, 2022 would be the Sakura diamond at the end of March, at the height of the Japanese cherry blossom season. According to the GIA certificate, the color of the stone was determined to be Fancy Vivid Purple Pink, the clarity was Internally Flawless, and the weight was 15.81 carats. In other words, it became the largest purple-pink diamond with similar characteristics ever presented at auction. It was put up for auction in the setting of a ring with two white diamonds, but it was obvious that bids would be made directly for “Sakura”.
Price: the estimate for the lot was $25-38 million, and the final bid was $29.1 million
Working with stones from Bvlgari
Bvlgari held the presentation of Magnifica, its most expensive high jewelry collection, in Milan. The choice of the city was dictated by the desire to congratulate the capital of Italian fashion on its victory in the difficult fight against COVID-19. A serious enough reason to organize a real celebration, especially since the collection turned out to match the solemn moment: the jewelry really evokes admiration. Just look at the central stone in the Imperial Spinel necklace (pictured) - the fuchsia-colored spinel mined in Tajikistan ranks first in the world in quality and fourth in weight. The stone weighs 131.21 carats, second only to the spinels that adorn the crowns of the Russian and British empires. It took 1,400 hours of work to create the precious necklace set with diamonds and emerald beads.
Price: €16 million
Rings: variety of shapes and solutions
Today, jewelry fashion pleases with its diversity. A catalog of products from many brands will delight the most sophisticated lover of chic things. So, if you like unusual rings, check out the models from Bulgari. The ring of this brand is striking in its irregularity and imperfection, but there is an opportunity to appreciate what is perfect - the inner content.
The Rose des Vents rings from the French house of Dior are dedicated to the brand’s favorite symbol – the rose. In addition to four pendants, the new collection also features five rings, which stand out with ornate gold decor. And fashionistas will also like double-sided products, which can be worn on one side or the other.
Fashion jewelry brands
Gurus in the field of beauty and everything connected with it have updated their collections:
- The Cartier brand boasted art deco-inspired jewelry made from luxurious platinum with sparkling rare yellow diamonds. Jewelers also used pearls and emeralds in their creations.
- On the red carpet, it was impossible not to notice the beautiful items from David Webb. One of the favorites in the fashion industry draws the attention of connoisseurs to massive products with bright, large stones.
- Coco Rocha presented exquisite, light jewelry to the girls in her romantic collection.
Fashionable jewelry houses presented curious items with beautiful products designed for summer, winter, and off-season. They contain floral, geometric, abstract patterns, ethnic motifs, metal is combined with enamel, crystals attract the eye. They are all very different, but they are united by a creative approach, non-trivial execution, and a tendency towards texture, roughness, and delicacy.
Fashion for medallions
Fashion changes, jewelry becomes more and more original. For example, the Mattioli brand offers to appreciate the unique combination of onyx, agate and rose gold in a new jewelry format - medallions. They consist of a carved stone cameo decorated with tiny agate flowers. According to the designer of the brand, Lucia Mattioli, such accessories can perfectly emphasize the femininity, tenderness and romance of girls.
Collections from Chanel have also been replenished with such jewelry. The brand’s designers returned to the theme of the lion again, and as a result, the line included bracelets with original relief and sautoirs with medallions, made of yellow gold and with a relief image of a lion’s face.
Gemstones: sparkle and shine
Jewelry fashion trends are changing, but the love for precious stones and semi-precious stones remains. The use of rose gold, rubellites, diamonds, amethysts, aquamarines and red spinel highlights the new collection of the popular fashion house Bulgari. In the latest update, brand designers presented jewelry that is made in the spirit of Italy and represents a real work of jewelry art. Earrings made of natural rubies and rubellites with floral patterns will not leave any fashionista indifferent.
No less interesting is the DIOR GRANVILLE jewelry collection, which is made on the basis of rare gems - tanzanites, emeralds, diamonds and spessartites. The style of the collection can be assessed as a combination of delicacy and boldness, so even the classic design is somewhat diluted with asymmetrical inserts or opposing shades of stones. According to reviews, this decoration looks chic in combination with any outfit.
Jewelry wax museum
This is an unusual wax museum. It contains exhibits that do not resemble celebrities or historical figures. The main thing that the masters who create them strive for is that each item is an exact copy of the imprint of the master model cut out in a mold.
This “museum” is the waxing site of the SOKOLOV jewelry company. Shall we take a look?
Meet the waxer
At this production site, future jewelry takes on a very real, albeit waxy form, which then becomes a kind of “stencil” for metal casting.
Some people think that making lost wax models (that’s what this process is “correctly” called) is exclusively a woman’s job. It turns out that men cope with the painstaking operation no worse. It’s even amazing how they work with fragile wax models, if one manufactured part can be smaller than a fingernail.
Waxmakers are almost elusive: most often they work in shifts, so their schedule differs from that of other workshops. They are distinguished from most jewelers by their perfectly clean hands and a discerning eye, capable of noticing “air” or “burst” in the intricate elements of still wax jewelry.
Tools
To make lost wax models, or waxes, you need special equipment - injectors. There are two types of injectors: automatic vacuum and manual. Inside each of them, high pressure and a temperature of 75 degrees are maintained, necessary to maintain the wax in a molten form.
In addition to the injector, the waxer requires a special tool.
- A scraper is a sharpened metal rod used to remove excess wax.
- Brush and cotton swab. It's amazing how everyday things turn into essential jewelry tools. Soaked in gasoline, they are needed to correct unevenness and minor defects that can be eliminated.
- Magnifying glass. It is used to evaluate the quality of the resulting wax and smelting of the smallest parts.
Making waxes: from and to
The work of making lost wax models begins with receiving an order - a task written on a special form. The master checks the numbers of the molds, that is, the rubber bands, with the numbers indicated in the work order.
If the waxer works on an automatic vacuum injector, for each individual model he selects the necessary parameters (pressure, wax injection temperature, clamping force and gum supply).
Then the master cleans the mold from dust and wax residues using a pneumatic gun with compressed air. Because of this, at some moments it seems that several professional hair dryers are working in the workshop at the same time. Depending on the complexity of the model and the features of the mold, some rubber bands are sprayed with silicone - the wax is easily separated from the rubber and does not break. Then all the components of the elastic are folded, only after that it is considered ready for use.
The master places the mold in a special carriage, uses dies to raise it to the desired level (so that the injector nose coincides with the hole in the rubber band) and presses the “Start” button. While the next mold is being filled in the same way, a specialist removes the wax from the previous one and checks its quality. If the master sees a defect, he adjusts the parameters in one direction or another.
Modern equipment increases the speed of production and the quality of waxes, but cannot fully replace manual labor.
Working with a manual injector is somewhat different from working with an automatic one and completely depends on the professionalism of the jeweler.
First, the waxer tightens the valve and manually pumps up pressure, the height of which depends on the type of product. Just like when working with vacuum equipment, he cleans the gum with a blow gun. Then the master firmly clamps the mold between two plastic dies, brings it to the injector nozzle and presses on it. Hot wax is poured into the gum and takes the shape of the model carved in it - the wax is ready!
By the way, in order for the wax to harden faster, the molds must be cold. Therefore, as the gums heat up, the waxer puts them in the freezer to cool.
The finished samples, together with the work order, are submitted to the quality control inspector for inspection. Using a microscope, the specialist evaluates the quality of the work performed, and in the meantime the waxer can begin to perform the next job.
Wax trees
Yes, yes, imagine, there are such people too.
After quality control, prototypes of future products are soldered onto a wax rod. The result is a blank for casting in metal, resembling a Christmas tree. Making wax wood is a very painstaking job, since fragile models that fit tightly together are easy to damage.
After this, the finished Christmas trees are sent to the casting area, where they are cast in metal.
Surrealism
In the collage: @schiaparelli jewelry
In contrast to the previous trend, many designers turned to surrealism in their works: spreading drops, body parts and parts of the face - everything lives separately. And although this was inspired by the works of Salvador Dali, Rene Magritte, Meret Oppenheim, they are quite harmonious with our time.
What do you think of these trends chosen by the jewelry stylist? Have you ever thought that your age may affect your attitude? We have a test to see how the number of years a woman has lived influences her choice of jewelry.
You may also find the jewelry horoscope useful: which stones will bring good luck and wealth in 2021.
Engagement rings from Tiffany & Co.
Designed by Charles Lewis Tiffany in the late 19th century, the classic solitaire diamond engagement ring is one of Tiffany & Co.'s most recognizable and coveted pieces of jewelry for many brides around the world. However, over the past nearly one hundred and fifty years since then, the world has changed a lot, and at the beginning of the 21st century, the demand for engagement rings, which can be given not only to women, but also to men, has already fully formed. Tiffany & Co. responded to this demand by presenting a collection of men's engagement rings. The jewelry is made in several designs in platinum or titanium and, of course, is set with white diamonds (which, in accordance with the company's new policy, are accompanied by a certificate of origin).
Price: from $15,600 to $278,500
Talking jewelry
In the collage: palm bracelet, 4,000 rubles; bracelet V, 6500 rub. - both @boo_jewellery_moscow; thick chain and bracelet – @ch.phr8ph
The general transition to the online format has contributed to the popularity of statement jewelry: very large, massive. The fact is that we switched to self-made, started creating personal brands, and bright and catchy rings, earrings, and pendants attract attention.
Lettering is a separate trend. They have become a means of expressing thoughts or recognition. Feel free to purchase such jewelry!
Chains made of precious and semi-precious metals are also in fashion. Precisely large, massive chains, not chains. Multi-level chain necklaces can add more chic to your look. Pendants and a combination of chains and pearls will add femininity.
Bodychains. We didn't have the opportunity to go out for a long time. Of course, now I desperately want to stand out. The trend is jewelry for the whole body: chains around the waist and hips, jewelry on the shoulder, etc. Bodychain will help you decorate yourself completely - the more interesting the design, the cooler it is.
Earrings. There is no room for modesty in 2022—it’s either all or nothing. Nowadays it is important to decorate the “portrait zone” with large, asymmetrical and bright earrings. Take a closer look not only at the usual metals, but also at wood and ceramics.
At the peak of popularity are earrings and cuffs, large and long enough to hang from the shoulder. They can be complemented with pendants that create a trendy fringe effect. Asymmetrical shapes are at the top.
And of course, fashionistas can’t miss mono earrings, because this year they should be very large and noticeable from afar.
Jewelry - fashion
In the coming year, designers largely entrusted the fair sex with the formation of their jewelry box. Jewelry fashion is democratic - it allows you to wear completely different jewelry. You can wear rings, bracelets, earrings of any shape and size - as long as they match the outfit. Gold has not yet returned to its former positions; silver remains among the favorites; jewelry made of plastic, leather, natural stones, and semi-precious metals are popular.
The permissiveness of choice is limited by the fact that jewelry and jewelry should not have a cheap, boring look. Fashionistas should only have high-quality, beautiful products. Jewelry fashion offers rings - elegant and large, bracelets - massive and in the form of chains, pendants, beads, tiaras, many of which are decorated with beautiful pure stones.
Collar necklace: classic
Modern jewelry fashion is expanding its boundaries. An original decoration can be a collar necklace decorated with precious stones and pearls. However, the Dior brand sees even this accessory in its own way. So, in 2016, the brand’s designer presented to the public an original collar necklace, which is made of round and square metal plates using the chain mail technique. It fits perfectly with a deep neckline, as customers note.
Earrings: unusual solutions are in fashion
Long dangling earrings are more popular than ever this season. They allow you to visually lengthen your neck and make it more graceful. Spectacular accessories are offered by brands such as Nadia Morgenthaler, Antonini, Gaelle Khouri. Note that long earrings are made from expensive but lightweight materials; the stones are attached as carefully as possible so that the weight of the jewelry is not too large. Popular stones that are used to create such jewelry include sapphires, diamonds, pink and green tourmalines, agates, malachite, onyx and much more.
Asymmetrical and unpaired earrings are also at the peak of popularity. In such decorations there is no emphasis on symmetry; on the contrary, completely different rules apply here. Thus, Chopard offers earrings in which pearls have different colors and sizes. In jewelry from VanLeles, the same stones - tourmalines, rubellites - are arranged in different orders. Asymmetrical earrings are offered by the Bee Goddess brand.
Thus, in fashion everything that is most unusual, original, pleasing to the eye not only with classic solutions, but also with new finds. You can appreciate such original items in various boutiques. For example, “Zlata Fashion” is a jewelry store where the best collections of the world's leading brands are collected. According to customer reviews, there is plenty to choose from!
Large elements - to be!
Some people like unnoticeable accessories, while others advocate massiveness and catchiness. According to the reviews of beautiful ladies, large jewelry is popular this season. Modern fashion is diverse, so you can safely combine light jewelry and something interesting in your look. The designers suggest placing the main emphasis on the hands - bracelets in any combination will be especially popular this season. You can complement the look with massive chains and necklaces with a variety of shiny materials. Such jewelry, according to the girls, must be in the box.
