Which gold standard is better - 375 or 585? Pros and cons, how they really differ. How to distinguish 375 gold from 585

To determine the gold content in a particular piece of jewelry, the so-called sample system is used. Its essence is that a three-digit number is applied to the product, which indicates the number of milligrams of precious metal in one gram. Thus, 375 gold has 37.5% pure gold, while the remaining 62.5% includes various metals and alloys.

What is 375 gold made from?

Due to its strength, malleability and ductility, this precious alloy can be used to make any jewelry.

You can use it to make chains, earrings, bracelets and pendants of amazing beauty and grace, but the most popular are wedding rings of 375 standard. They were in particular demand in the USSR.

This gold is often used to set semi-precious stones such as amethyst, agate, turquoise, and garnet. Also, it is suitable for the manufacture of luxury items that are actively used in everyday life.

These are cases of expensive watches, cigarette cases and lighters, nibs for prestigious writing pens, exquisite cutlery and much more. With proper care, such products can last for decades without breaking or losing their appearance.

Gold of this brand is often used to make decorative elements of furniture and picture frames. In general, the range of applications is very wide.

Why does this sample attract buyers?

Jewelry connoisseurs who want to wear precious stones set in gold willingly buy metal of this standard. They are not concerned with the question of what percentage will be in the noble metal into which the precious stone they are interested in will be set. Such jewelry fans are interested in other questions. Will the shine of the metal disappear? How long will a beautiful stone hold on as thin tendrils or is there a risk of losing it?

Thanks to the use of precisely adjusted proportions of impurities, which provide jewelry with increased wear resistance, jewelry owners will not have to be upset by the sight of chips, scratches and surface deformation. Even the thinnest 375 bases, decorated with miniature details, will forever retain their original appearance.

Existing assays and uses of the precious metal

The higher the standard, the heavier and more plastic the decoration. Soft metal is subject to deformation, and its shine disappears due to numerous scratches.

375 has many advantages. It does not change color, does not wear off, does not fade. It is light and does not add extra weight to the jewelry. The noble metal in such an alloy holds stones well. Jewelry is strong and durable.

How is the 375 different from the 585?

The main difference is the gold content of 58.8% and 37.5%. The quality of the second alloy is lower. This is reflected in liquidity, price, and operating conditions.

The 585 keeps an attractive appearance and does not need cleaning. The 375 is cleaned regularly.

Composition and strength

Alloy components provide strength to the substance, since gold itself is too soft. Metal with a purity of 375 has greater hardness and is much less susceptible to deformation and abrasion.

Low-grade 375 gold appears slightly duller than the purer 585 alloy, but this becomes noticeable when compared closely. Depending on the composition, its shade can vary from red to cream and pale yellow.

With a decrease in purity, the metal’s resistance to oxidation also decreases - products made from a low-quality alloy darken, can leave marks on the skin and cause allergic reactions.

Appearance and features of the brand

For alloys of different purities, the Assay Office in Russia uses the same type of mark - a female profile in a kokoshnik. Only the digital value differs in accordance with the composition of the metal to which it is applied.

Difference between different purity grades

In Russia, the metric system for testing alloys is used; abroad you can often find gold products with a karat designation of metal purity.

A precious souvenir with a 9K stamp corresponds to the 375th, 14K – 585th gold standard, respectively.

Differences in GOST standards and quality

The quality of gold alloys is regulated by GOST 6835-2002 and is strictly observed. Metal produced with irregularities must be melted down. According to the regulatory document, precious metals 375 and 585 are three-component compositions of gold, copper and silver, in which ligature occurrences are presented in different proportions depending on the grade.

Varieties that are used for making jewelry.

Price and demand

The cost of gold is higher, 585 is always higher. Today, the price per gram of alloy with the 585 mark is around one and a half thousand rubles. Metal marked 375 is valued at just under a thousand per gram.

If you purchase jewelry in a jewelry store, the price will be influenced by the cost of work on making the jewelry, which depends not on the alloy, but on the complexity of the execution.

The demand for precious metal is dictated by fashion. In Russia, the most popular jewelry is 585-karat; in the United States, some European countries readily use jewelry with a purity of 9 carats (analogous to grade 375); in Italy, they give preference to other, purer varieties. And Arab fashionistas prefer pure gold.

585 gold

An alloy of 14 parts pure gold and 10 parts metals such as silver, copper, zinc or nickel.

In percentage terms, the alloy contains 58.3% pure gold, so you can often see the numbers 583 or 585 on products. But most often, products made from this gold alloy are marked with 14K, 14KT, 14k or similar designations.

Quality

The main difference is the amount of gold in the alloy. The 375 material is of poorer quality because it contains 37.5% gold. In alloy 585 the share of gold is 58.5%, so it is of higher quality.

Strength

The more gold in the metal, the worse its strength. Therefore, 375 gold is stronger than 585 gold. Naturally, this is not as noticeable as we think, but it is true.

Price

The cost also depends on the volume of precious metal in the alloy. Therefore, the larger the sample, the more the jewelry costs. Accordingly, products of 375 standard are less expensive than similar products from more valuable samples. But the difference in the cost of products of 375 and 585 samples is not large, because their price includes the work of jewelers, taxes and markups of intermediaries, etc.

SampleMarket pricePrice in jewelry storesPurchase price

beauty

Both alloys allow jewelers to create unique creations using advanced metalworking techniques.

There is an opinion that jewelry with the 375 mark darkens and becomes dull after some time, unlike products 585, but it must be said that such changes can occur in any jewelry, regardless of the amount of gold in its composition.

Demand

In the Russian Federation, “585” items are sold in large volumes, but it should be noted that jewelry with the “375” stamp is a worthy and promising alternative. But the variety of such jewelry is small, because there is little demand for them. A small amount of gold in jewelry makes it not respectable, since everyone today wants to look chic.

In addition, this precious material is not in demand, because jewelry made from it often loses its attractive appearance during use. A small content of precious metal makes jewelry wear-resistant and durable, but at the same time the metal’s ability to oxidize increases.

If you do not wear or care for items made of low-quality gold for a long time, they will darken and lose their shine, which will make them impossible to wear. Returning jewelry to its original appearance will be extremely problematic.

Another disadvantage of jewelry with the 375 mark is that it can cause allergies. This can be caused by the body’s high sensitivity to certain types of metals that are present in the precious material.

There is little precious metal in it, so there are many impurities that often provoke an allergic reaction on the skin.

Advantages and disadvantages of 375 and 585 samples

The noble alloy 375 has an obvious advantage - hardness, which ensures the durability of the product and maintains a presentable appearance. Another advantage is the low cost of jewelry made from it.

The disadvantages include the lower inertness of the 375 alloy with respect to the environment and, as a result, a greater likelihood of dark deposits.

Precious metal 585 is more expensive. Since things related to luxury goods are made from it, this is rather a plus. It has better reflectivity, due to this the products shine brighter and are objectively more beautiful. It has better oxidation resistance, and the likelihood of allergies to such jewelry is low.

The main disadvantage of 585-carat metal is its softness, which leads to damage and scratches on jewelry. Such a product requires additional care and periodic polishing in a jewelry workshop to maintain its beauty.

For what purpose was the sampling system introduced?

Gold in its pure form is characterized by softness and a dull color of an indefinite shade. It is easily bent, deformed, and loses its shine. Jewelry made from such metal will have an unpresentable appearance.

To give it a certain density and shade, various alloys are used in the jewelry industry. Control and regulation of this process is entrusted to government agencies. To determine the amount of precious metal in alloys, a sampling system was introduced.

In Russia there is a law according to which if products produced in industry contain 30% gold, they must be branded. The most famous gold samples are 375.585, 750.958.

These numbers determine the measure of gold included in 1 kg of the alloy. If there is no mark on this product, this may indicate that the item was made illegally. It is impossible to be sure that it is of high quality and purity.

What compositions are there?

375 gold may vary significantly in composition and, accordingly, color and characteristics.

If you add about 60% copper to the alloy, it will have a reddish tint. Such a product quickly oxidizes and becomes covered with a dark coating. This is compensated by the high strength of the composition. Even small decoration elements will not be easy to break.

An alloy containing approximately 20% silver and 40% copper, the color will be pink. The metal will be a little less durable, but more ductile.

When silver and copper are mixed in equal parts, approximately 30% each, the alloy turns out to be rich yellow. Hardness will decrease, and ductility will accordingly increase. If there is approximately 40% silver and 20% copper, the color of gold will be even yellow.

A composition in which there is no copper and silver is 62.5% will turn out white. The strength will be significantly inferior to an alloy with the addition of copper.

To obtain a delicate creamy shade, approximately 40% palladium and 20% silver are added. This alloy is rare, and its cost is higher. The reason is that palladium is a fairly expensive metal.

Silver makes gold more ductile and malleable, and also lowers the melting point. Copper, in turn, increases the hardness of the alloy. At the same time, it does not impair its malleability and ductility. The more copper is added to gold, the more pronounced red tint it has.

Recommendations for care and cleaning

1. Jewelry from three hundred and seventy-five is cleaned regularly, for example, in a solution of washing powder. It is not recommended to use soap - it leaves a greasy film on the surface.
2. Polish with a soft cloth.
3. Avoid contact of the product surface with aggressive chemicals - acid, alkali, acetone, solvents. Household cleaning products, cosmetics and perfumes destroy the surface.
4. Do not use abrasive paints or paints or products for decoration.
5. Remove gold before water treatments, baths and saunas.
6. It is not recommended to swim in the sea with jewelry, as the clasps begin to rust.
7. Store jewelry in cloth bags or boxes with soft walls. In cardboard boxes they will turn black.
8. You cannot store jewelry of different samples and compositions together, or gold and silver.

How to store 375 gold?

The best place to store gold items is in special cases, lined with soft fabric on the inside. If this is not the case, you can use a canvas bag.

• Do not store in cardboard boxes, as they contain sulfur and dark spots will quickly appear on the gold.
• It is not advisable to store gold items of different grades and compositions together. This makes them lose their appearance.
• You cannot keep gold together with silver and jewelry.
• Storage near heating devices, as well as in places exposed to direct sunlight, is contraindicated. Gold loves dryness and darkness.
• It would also be a good idea to use a reliable safe for storage.

How to clean a gold ring at home

Cleaning gold items (of any standard) at home is simple:

• For light soiling, a warm solution of washing powder is sufficient. Keep the products in it for 10 minutes, then rinse well with running water.
• 10 drops of ammonia per glass of warm water - if the contamination is severe.
• Stains from a gold item are removed with a special paste; if they are ingrained, hold them in a concentrated ammonia solution - it will not dissolve the precious metal, but will remove the oxidation of copper and silver.

Proper care of gold jewelry

The most important rule is to clean your jewelry regularly. It doesn’t matter what precious metal they are made of, and even more so, what grade they are made of - over time, a dirty coating appears on all of them. Body sweat, dust and environmental pollution settle on your rings, which is why they lose their former attractiveness and become dull.

Be sure to remove jewelry from your hands if you work with alkaline or acidic compounds. They are components of many cleaning products and solvents and have a negative effect on gold, even to the point of damaging the structure of the alloy.

Paints, varnishes, and substances with abrasive properties can also harm your jewelry. Take them off before going to the bathhouse or sauna. Exposure to high temperatures also has a negative effect on gold alloys.

Do not store gold jewelry in cardboard boxes - the sulfur contained in it causes the items to turn black.

As can be seen from the above, it is not the sample that is to blame for the fact that the products have lost their appearance, but incorrect wearing and irregular cleaning.

Why does gold turn black?

The composition of the alloy affects the appearance of the product. The less precious metal, the higher the chance that over time the jewelry will become covered with a dark coating and leave marks on the skin. Darkening occurs as a reaction to contact with cosmetics and cleaning products. Another reason is increased sweating of the owner.

Why can gold jewelry make your fingers dark?

1. These are the characteristics of the impurities contained in the alloy.
2. Reaction of gold to components of decorative cosmetics, detergents and cleaning products, etc.
3. Increased sweating, which causes the skin to release nitrogen compounds. These react with the copper and cause black ring marks to appear.

Appearance of gold streaks

The presence of a large number of impurities in 375 gold makes products made from it susceptible to chemical reactions when exposed to an aggressive environment. Acids, alkalis, high humidity - these are just the main factors affecting the condition of the product, its appearance and the possibility of darkening.

When interacting with a harmful environment, gold begins to oxidize and leaves black marks when it comes into contact with the skin. As a rule, they take the form of stripes.

How to wear products correctly?

1. It is better to remove jewelry while doing housework. This will protect them from damage and aggressive household chemicals. You cannot swim in public pools, as chlorine-containing compounds are added there.
2. Be sure to remove jewelry before visiting saunas and baths, since an environment saturated with hot steam and aromas is not the best place for gold. In addition, you can get burned.
3. It is not advisable to swim in it. Sea water will not harm gold, but the locks of bracelets and chains often contain steel springs, which can begin to rust.
4. 375 gold contains copper , which is oxidized by sweat. Therefore, it is necessary to remove jewelry before sports training.
5. Many creams and ointments contain mercury , which reacts with gold. It is better to remove jewelry before cosmetic procedures.

What to choose: 375 or 585 gold

• It is impossible to say for sure which type of gold alloy is better. When choosing, there are many factors to consider, as well as individual preferences. If you want everyday jewelry that you will wear all the time, then it is better to opt for a product made from 375 gold - it is harder and more scratch-resistant. A ring made of 585 gold will wear out faster and become scratched if worn constantly. An additional advantage is the lower price of products made from 375 gold alloy.
• As noted above, diamond jewelry is typically made from at least 585 gold alloy.
• If you are allergic to nickel, it is best to avoid jewelry made from 375 gold and opt for jewelry made from 585 gold or a higher purity alloy.
• As for appearance, it’s up to you to decide which of these types of gold looks more attractive, and whether it’s worth paying extra for a higher standard.

Customer Reviews

Julia: I chose an expensive pen with a gold nib as a gift. They explained to me that using a high-grade alloy for such things is impractical, since the material is too soft.

Diana: I love gold very much and try to choose 585-karat items for myself; they seem more beautiful to me.

Dmitry: I don’t see much difference in appearance, but there is a noticeable difference in price. For myself, I would choose 375 sample as a harder and more practical alloy.

How to choose jewelry

It is recommended to make purchases in trusted jewelry stores. Check the surface of the product and the certificate.

In Turkey, China, Egypt, it is recommended to buy gold with caution. A hallmark for jewelry in these countries is not necessary, and cheap alloys are sold under the guise of 375.

In conclusion, we note that the 375th is unpopular in Russia; the 585th is preferred to it. In the USSR, three hundred and seventy-five were made into items for everyday wear - watch bracelets, wedding rings, earrings.

The test is popular in the USA and Europe and is used by youth jewelry brands.

The price for 375 depends on the market value and instructions from the Central Bank of Russia. Pawnshops buy the alloy from 500 rubles per gram. A product in poor condition will cost less.

Among the disadvantages of the 375 are:

• loss of attractiveness:
• the need for regular cleaning;
• allergies and black spots on the skin;
• low liquidity.

Advantages:

• price;
• wear resistance;
• strength;
• the author's work does not differ in appearance from the 585th.

It is not recommended to purchase 375 in Egypt and Turkey, where they sell cheap alloy for a high price.

Store jewelry in bags or boxes with soft walls in a cool, dark place. Clean regularly with special products or ammonia. Avoid contact of the surface of the product with sweat, cosmetics, and cleaning products. Dangerous are acid, alkali, acetone, solvents, and sea water.

375 gold is contraindicated for those who are allergic to nickel

This is the biggest drawback of 375 gold alloy - the nickel in its composition can cause an allergic reaction.

Because the percentage of nickel in this gold alloy is higher (compared to 585 and higher alloys), products made from it are more likely to cause skin irritation and other allergy symptoms.

Jewelry made of 585 gold practically does not cause allergic reactions, and yet people prone to allergies are recommended to test the product first.

Interesting Facts

In Russia, at the legislative level, 375 gold is considered the lowest acceptable standard. It is undeservedly deprived of consumer attention, but in addition to its shortcomings, this alloy has many obvious advantages.

The main ones are strength, resistance to wear and scratches.

If you wear and store it correctly and carry out maintenance procedures on time, such a product will last for many years without losing its attractive appearance.

In the USA and European countries, 375 gold is much more popular.

In France, for example, according to the Committee for the Development of Jewelry (they have one), sales of 375 gold products are growing every year.

The numbers are called as follows:

• 2008 – about 100 thousand products;
• 2011 – about 1.6 million products;
• 2012 – about 4.1 million products.

Agree, the growth is dizzying.

In Germany, the lowest standard of jewelry gold is 333 or 8K according to the karat system. It is also commonly called “German”. It contains jewelry bronze, which is an alloy of copper and tin.

Jewelry made from such gold is very popular in Germany itself, some European countries and Canada.