Nowadays, in the windows of jewelry stores you can see an innumerable amount of jewelry made from 585 gold. The popularity of this precious alloy is due to its affordable cost for most citizens. Moreover, in addition to its stunning appearance, 14k gold is strong and durable, even if used for daily wear.
This is achieved by the presence of a significant percentage of copper in the alloy. The composition of 585 gold includes pure yellow metal 58.5%, copper in the alloy 33.5%, and the remaining 8% is silver together with other alloy metals. This percentage of metals made it possible to obtain a non-tarnishing and very durable alloy, which is at the same time quite malleable and ductile. Sometimes such gold is popularly called “chervonets”, since chervonets and other coins were minted from approximately the same alloy in ancient times.
Sample 585: what is it - silver or gold?
The numerical designations of precious metal samples are similar. The minimum marking of modern silver alloys is 800. This material is used to make cutlery. But 585 is placed only on gold items and is not considered low-grade.
A frame in which the numerical value of the mark is written will help separate the metals. For gold, a figure in the form of a spatula is used, for silver - a barrel.
Brief history of appearance
Sample 585 appeared not so long ago, in 1994. It replaced the most popular marking in the USSR - 583, which was introduced in 1927, simultaneously with the approval of the metric system for measuring precious alloys.
The reason for the change was that domestic gold was priced lower than the equivalent 14 karat alloy in Western countries. It was decided to increase the amount of pure gold by 0.2% so that precious items fully comply with international standards.
Composition and properties
The alloy marked 585 contains 58.5 percent gold. The remaining 41.5% is the ligature. The additive gives the precious metal the necessary strength and helps reduce the cost and weight of the product. The main components of the alloy are silver and copper. Alloys with platinum, nickel, and silicon are less common; they are usually used to create white gold.
Thanks to copper, products become durable, but are more easily susceptible to oxidation processes. Silver is designed to maintain anti-corrosion properties.
Over time, 585 sterling silver jewelry may change color and become stained. However, this process takes years, and regular care can prevent unpleasant changes.
The density of the alloy ranges from 12.8 to 14.76 g/cubic meter. cm. This value largely depends on the composition of the ligature.
Strength
The strength of gold alloys comes from the copper content in the alloy. The higher its percentage, the more resistant to friction the product will be. Thus, red gold, with a high copper content, is more durable than traditional yellow or white.
However, this alloy also becomes covered with scratches and abrasions over time. Only careful, careful handling will allow you to preserve the attractive appearance of jewelry.
Alloy shade chart
The volume fraction of the alloy in the alloy allows jewelers to achieve a wide variety of shades of gold. In addition to the main ones - yellow, white and red, you can see black, green, gray and even purple shades. However, such exotic colors are not in demand and are difficult to manufacture, so traditional alloys are used in mass production. Let's look at their composition:
| Copper | Silver | Palladium |
| Yellow | 187,5 | 227,5 |
| Red | 335 | 80 |
| Pink | 325 | 90 |
| Green | 300 | 115 |
| White | 235 | 180 |
Brand
A hallmark is used to indicate the hallmark of jewelry. It not only indicates the type of product, but confirms its authenticity. In Russia, an image of a woman in profile is used as a brand. It is followed by a numeric value.
Soviet-era products depict a star with a hammer and sickle inscribed inside it. The numerical value is different: instead of 585 - 583.
How many carats are in this sample?
In Russia, the metric system for evaluating gold alloys is used. Its numerical value shows the proportion of pure gold in the product. In the countries of the USA and Europe, traditionally, a more complex system of perception is used - the carat system. Pure precious metal is valued at 24. The 585th sample corresponds to the number 14, which means it contains 14 parts of gold and 10 parts of alloy. Here is a table of correspondence between the two systems:
| Carat | 9 | 12 | 14 | 18 | 21,6 | 22 | 23 | 24 |
| Metric | 375 | 500 | 585 | 750 | 900 | 916 | 958 | 999 |
| Au in percent | 37,5% | 50% | 58,5% | 75% | 90% | 91,6% | 95,8% | 99,9% |
Officially recognized chemical compositions of white gold
The interstate standard, described in GOST 6835–2002, clearly defines the proportions of officially accepted compounds of gold with other metals. There are only 37 of them. The table below shows only white gold compositions:
| Try | Gold, % | Platinum, % | Palladium, % | Nickel, % | Impurities, no more than % |
| 950 | 94,5–95,5 | — | — | Ost | 0,11 |
| 930 | 92,6–93,4 | 6,6–7,4 | — | — | 0,11 |
| 900 | 89,6–90,4 | 9,6–10,4 | — | — | 0,11 |
| 840 | 83,5–84,5 | — | 15,5–16,5 | — | 0,13 |
| 800 | 79,5–80,5 | — | 19,5–20,5 | — | 0,13 |
| 600 | 59,5–60,5 | — | 39,5–40,5 | — | 0,13 |
| 600 | 59,4–60,6 | 9,5–10,5 | 29,5–30,5 | — | 0,18 |
This classification is followed by 10 countries of the post-Soviet space:
- Armenia
- Belarus
- Kazakhstan
- Kyrgyzstan
- Moldova
- Russia
- Tajikistan
- Turkmenistan
- Uzbekistan
- Ukraine
Differences from other samples
Let's compare 585 sample with similar alloys.
From 583
The basic properties of samples 585 and 583 are no different, because the difference in their composition is only 0.2% gold. The main thing that makes grade 585 stand out is its establishment as an official standard. 583 is not currently issued, and there is no modern hallmark with this value. When examining products of this sample, experts can evaluate them only as grade 500.
From 375
The 585 compares favorably with the low-grade 375 alloy both in terms of external characteristics and physical features. Its shade is closer to the natural color of pure gold. 585 alloy does not darken as quickly as low-grade metal and does not stain the skin.
Chemical compositions of white gold not included in the standard
Our fellow citizens purchase some of their jewelry abroad. In other countries, they adhere to different proportions when creating jewelry. As a result, the noble metal does not lose its properties. But owners may have difficulty selling such jewelry or obtaining a loan for them at a pawnshop. Below are the most common chemical compositions of white gold.
| Try | Gold, % | Silver, % | Palladium, % | Copper, % | Nickel, % | Zinc, % |
| 583 | 58,3 | 23,7 | 18,0 | — | — | — |
| 583 | 58,3 | — | — | 23,5 | 12,2 | 6,0 |
| 750 | 75 | 5 | — | — | 20 | — |
| 585 | 58,5 | 25,5 | — | — | 16,5 | — |
| 750 | 75 | 5 | 20 | — | — | — |
Application of this alloy
Grade 585 is the most popular jewelry alloy in Russia. All types of jewelry are made from it. It is also used as gilding of silver jewelry and high-quality costume jewelry made from base metals.
Advantages and disadvantages
The popularity of 585 sample is due to its advantages:
- sufficient strength for jewelry;
- lower price compared to high-grade gold;
- the necessary level of plasticity, allowing you to create complex patterns;
- a significant proportion of the ligature allows you to achieve a variety of shades.
585 sample has few disadvantages. Due to the fairly significant proportion of ligature, products of this grade may darken and become stained. Scratches may appear on their surface; this is typical for all gold jewelry.
Lead Density
The purer the gold, the less hard it is, so in the past the yellow metal was bitten to test. This method is unreliable. The jewelry can be made of lead, covered with a very thin layer of gold. Lead also has a soft structure. You can try to scratch the jewelry from the wrong side, and underneath a very thin layer of precious metal you may find base metal.
The density of the element of the periodic table - lead and its brother - gold is different. The density of lead is much less than gold and is 11.34 grams per cubic centimeter. Thus, if we take the yellow metal and lead of the same volume, then the mass of gold will be much greater than that of lead.
White gold is an alloy of yellow precious metal with platinum or other metals that give it a white, or rather matte silver, color. There is an opinion in everyday life that “white gold” is one of the names for platinum, but this is not so. This type of gold costs a little more than usual. In appearance, the white metal is similar to silver, which is much cheaper. The density of such elements of the periodic table as gold and silver is different. How to distinguish white gold from silver? These precious metals have different densities.
Silver is the least dense material of all those discussed in the article.
The density of gold is greater than that of silver. Its density is 10.49 grams per cubic centimeter. Silver is much softer than white metal. Therefore, if you run a silver item across a white sheet, a mark will remain. If you do the same with white precious metal, there will be no trace.
Which sample is better: 585 or 750
585-carat jewelry has its advantages and disadvantages compared to high-grade gold. They have a lower cost and yet have a high level of strength. This alloy is suitable for jewelry that is worn constantly.
Expert opinion
Vsevolod Kozlovsky
6 years in jewelry making. Knows everything about samples and can identify a fake in 12 seconds
Products of 750 standard are considered more elite; they emphasize the high status of the owner. Such jewelry almost does not darken or change color, but requires more careful handling. It is better to wear them on special occasions.
Gold price
In addition to pawn shops, you can find out the value of your product yourself. The price of 1 gram of gold is set by the Central Bank of Russia.
Gold price
As of July 2022, this is approximately 2867 rubles per gram. The price of 1 gram of 585 gold in jewelry will vary from 2300 to 3400 rubles. In addition to the cost of the gold itself, the price includes the labor of the jeweler, the complexity of the design, and additional materials (not precious stones). The cheapest gold standard 375 in a pawnshop will cost 900-1000 rubles per gram. The cost of a gram of 750 gold varies from 2000-2100 rubles. And the most expensive gold sample is ~ 2900 rubles. Pure gold is more expensive, but of course it is less common.
Since 2000, the price of gold has risen steadily. In 2011 it reached its apogee ~ 4200 rubles per gram. Afterwards the price began to gradually decrease. Since 2016, the cost has remained approximately the same. However, investing in metal is always considered a profitable business, and it is better to buy gold.
Author of the article: Alexandra Naumenko
Where can I buy or sell?
The safest place to buy jewelry is in jewelry stores. Products must have a certificate and passport. You can buy and sell gold in other places:
- in the online store;
- in a pawnshop;
- on Avito and similar resources with private advertisements;
- On the market.
In all these cases, the buyer has no guarantee of quality and cannot return the product if a defect is discovered. However, you can find antiques and jewelry here at lower prices.
How to increase your savings with gold?
Over time, the gold in the ingot does not become less, it will not burn in a fire, it will not turn into dust - it is practically eternal. Therefore, financial analysts around the world agree that gold as a tool for saving money is very promising. But you shouldn’t think that this also applies to jewelry: often, such products have a very high added value, and you are unlikely to be able to sell it at the same price as you bought it.
Most likely, if you need to quickly sell your reserves of precious metal in the form of products, only a jewelry pawnshop can help you, where the value of your jewelry will be assessed only by weight - like scrap gold. Only bank gold will be liquid in the matter of saving money - bullion has always been and will be in price!
Recommendations for care, cleaning and storage
Gold jewelry requires regular care and careful handling. If you follow the basic rules, they will serve for many years:
- It is necessary to store gold jewelry in individual cases and fabric bags. It is better to place chains in elongated boxes so that all the links are straightened and do not break.
- From time to time, jewelry should be washed in warm water and soap. Do not use hard brushes or aggressive chemicals.
- A special paste for cleaning gold jewelry, which can be purchased at a jewelry store, will help you get rid of darkening. It is better to trust the cleaning of antique and especially valuable jewelry to professionals.
- Gold requires careful handling: it is better to remove jewelry during swimming, physical work, and sports.
585 gold from different countries: how is it different?
When buying jewelry abroad, you should remember that not all countries have introduced global gold quality standards. In Russia, each product has a stamp, a passport, and the exact composition of the ligature. The same cannot be said about Turkey or Egypt, the most popular tourist destinations.
Egypt and Türkiye
Often Russians, after a holiday in Turkey, bring gold jewelry as souvenirs. Buyers are attracted by the unusual oriental design and low price, comparable to the cost of silver jewelry. Often such a purchase brings disappointment.
Expert opinion
Vsevolod Kozlovsky
6 years in jewelry making. Knows everything about samples and can identify a fake in 12 seconds
Turkish legislation does not regulate the jewelry industry and does not require mandatory stamping of jewelry. Moreover, some stores offer a service for stamping the alloy. Tourists risk purchasing beautiful costume jewelry instead of gold jewelry.
Even genuine items usually have a lower purity than what is stated by the seller. Real jewelry can only be purchased in large jewelry stores. However, the quality of Turkish gold is lower than that of European or domestic products.
There are no gold deposits in the country; all metal is imported. The cheapest, low-quality ligature is added to the imported gold, as a result of which the jewelry quickly darkens and often causes allergies.
Another trick that enterprising counterfeiters resort to is the combination of gold and non-precious alloys. For example, a chain may consist of links of different origins. It is not uncommon for gilded silver to be sold as gold.
In Egypt, they also often offer to buy cheap gold as a souvenir. However, local decorations do not meet international standards. In Russia they will not be accepted at a pawnshop. This is due to the fact that the Egyptians did not add silver and copper to the alloy, but brass.
In addition, you should be careful about products with stones. Local sellers usually assure tourists that the country is rich in them, which is why jewelry is cheap. In fact, there are no deposits of precious minerals in Egypt. Jewelers use imported material or fakes. You should only buy jewelry in large stores.
Italy
Italy is one of the leaders in the global jewelry market. There are two common hallmarks here - 585 and 750. On the products you can find a mark - 14 carats. Italian jewelry is a true work of art. The quality of the alloy is combined with a unique design and high-quality processing.
When purchasing such jewelry, you must check the certificate.
Fake gold standard
Not every swindler will decide to counterfeit a gold sample, since it is difficult and involves huge risks. Typically, fraud involves putting a high standard on a low-quality product that still contains gold. Similar products can be bought in small shops around the world, but by chance they can also be sold in decent jewelry stores. A well-made counterfeit sample is almost impossible to detect by eye, which is why it is necessary to check the alloy itself.
A portable device that can help with this is a gold detector that you can carry with you while shopping. It is worth remembering that the device may have its limitations and errors, so you should not trust it completely.
Tips for choosing gold jewelry
A few tips will help you make a successful purchase in a jewelry store:
- It is necessary to study the certificate or passport of the product.
- Carefully check the appearance of the product; for this you can ask the seller for a magnifying glass. The surface should be free of scratches, abrasions, and poor-quality polishing. All fastenings and inserts must be strong. In Russia, the return of jewelry is possible only if an undeclared defect is discovered, so you should carefully choose the size of the product.
- You should not buy jewelry to invest money. Jewelry is very difficult to sell at market price. Pawnshops accept them for the price of scrap gold.
- You should trust official documents; popular advice on determining the quality of a precious metal can be misleading. Even a specialist will not be able to correctly assess the quality of gold only by how the product looks.
Investing in Jewelry
According to experts, jewelry, of any standard, is not profitable as a source of investment. They do not belong to the class of investment instruments or the so-called “investment instrument”, unlike gold coins, bars or impersonal metal accounts.
At its core, an investment is money that brings profit over a certain period of time. When purchasing gold in the form of jewelry, it is very difficult to subsequently sell it for the purchase price, unless it is antique.
When delivered to a pawnshop, the product will not cost as much as a gram of gold at Sberbank, since the jewelry will be valued not as the work of skilled jewelers, but as scrap precious metal, which will be significantly lower than its original cost.
Reviews
Anna
I have always preferred 585 sample – jewelry made from it is of good quality. I have never noticed them getting dark or stained. Yes, if you wear it constantly, small scratches will appear, but this is normal for gold.
Svetlana
Once I saw a photo on the Internet of an amazing gold set made in Italy: a ring, earrings and a necklace. They resembled lace or cobwebs. Since then, I have been a loyal fan of Italian jewelry houses. Yes, such things are more expensive than Russian ones, but they are very beautiful. And the quality is excellent.
Determination of carat weight
British carats are a traditional value used to measure the purity of gold and its weight in a product. The smallest value is 8 carats (K). The specific gravity of 999 gold is 24 carats. If other elements are added to the alloy to change the characteristics of the metal, the carat value drops. The 18-karat precious metal contains 6 parts of impurities and 18 parts of pure gold.
For example, high-grade 917 gold has a mass of 22 carats. And such a popular 585 alloy is only 14 carats.
