A gold chain is a piece of jewelry that shows a person’s wealth and style. But not every buyer knows how to choose a chain and decide on the weaving. First, remember that all chains differ from each other according to the following criteria:
- Decoration length. Size options - from 40 to 70 cm. This determines at what level the chain will hang and whether it will be visible from under clothes.
- Type of weaving (anchor, armor, “Rombeau”, “Figaro”, “Bismarck”, etc.). There are about fifty configurations.
- Weaving method (machine, hand, stamped). The manual method is the work of a jeweler. The chain will cost more and will not look as perfect. But you will end up with a unique product. The cost of the chain will depend not only on the weight and material, but also on the type of weaving.
Classic armor weave
The type of chain will depend on these signs. The material from which the jewelry is made is suitable for absolutely any price category. It can be either gold, silver or other alloys with different coatings and shades. The main thing is to combine all the products and, if possible, choose the same type of set, which includes both a chain and a bracelet. They look beautiful and stylish if they are made of the same material and in the same weave.
Of course, the most banal and easiest weaving is anchor weaving. Its essence is to connect several links together so that they are at right angles to each other. It looks like an anchor chain, which is why it got the corresponding name. During the same period, armor weaving also appeared. Some jewelers classify it as a type of anchor stone. But many are distinguished separately by external signs.
Historically, knights and warriors wove chain mail from metal. They protected men from injury during battles, and also lay comfortably on the body and did not stab. The metal rings were interlocked with each other, but not at a right angle, but as if slightly cramped for the convenience of wearing chain mail. And soon jewelers noticed this technique and began making chains in a similar way. Moreover, armored weave models are suitable for both men and women.
Armor weaving of chains
This type of weaving is one of the oldest. Back in the Middle Ages, it was this technology that was used to make protective metal clothing for soldiers. Nowadays, armor weaving is one of the most common and relevant, especially among men. This chain looks unusual because its links lie in the same plane. The tight fit to the skin ensures wearing comfort and does not rub it. This option is ideal for those who experience redness or discomfort with other types of weaving. These chains look great over clothes. Another advantage of armor weaving is its strength. Even a thin silver chain does not get tangled or bent. Special polishing and diamond cutting of the links gives the product a bright shine. Silver chains with armor weave are most often made using specialized equipment.
Advantages of chains
Such a chain fits nicely on the body due to the fact that the links, forming a figure eight shape, are in the same plane. It does not protrude in volume, so it will not bulge out of clothes; it can be worn even under sweaters and blouses. Therefore, armored chain weaving is considered an improved anchor form.
A chain made of armored weave can be worn as an independent decoration. It is not necessary to select a pendant or pendant for it. Moreover, since armor weaving is most often dense, that is, the chain turns out to be a wide, massive shape, the size of the pendant must be appropriate. It’s better to choose more massive options that won’t get lost against the background of the chain, or wear the chain just like that, especially if a diamond cut has been added to the links for beauty.
Armor weaving is more suitable for older age groups who want their financial well-being to be appreciated. For men, it is better to choose a massive model of medium length. Short chains of 40 centimeters will fit tightly around the neck. Women can also choose medium-sized models, and take a smaller thickness of chain knitting than for men.
What does armor weaving look like?
Jewelers created the armored connection of links in a chain relatively recently. This is a type of anchor weaving, but slightly modified. The difference is that with the same connection principle, each link is slightly rotated in such a way that it is not perpendicular to the adjacent one, but is in the same plane with it.
This effect is obtained by bending each link. The compound got its name from the word “shell”. In ancient times, when making shells, parts were connected in one plane so as not to injure the body. In addition, such a combination of several elements is often found in the animal world.
Such chains are loved by women who prefer playing with contrasts - a monolithic armored chain will well emphasize the grace and fragility of its owner.
The peculiarity of chains made in armored joints is that when finely worked, they look like a metal strip.
Jewelers distinguish several types of armor weaving:
Nonna has nothing in common with a woman's name. This name comes from an Italian expression that means "grandmother's weaving." All edges shine in the sun thanks to the diamond edges. Nonna is considered one of the most elegant varieties of armored compounds.- The links made in the shape of a rhombus gave the name to the type of chains of the same name. Double and triple armor weaving, which is popular among consumers, is most often made with diamond-shaped edges.
- The name Figaro reflects the changeability of the name. In this weaving, links of different sizes and shapes alternate. The most common ratios are 1:1 and 1:5. This type of armored chains was chosen by the Cartier jewelry house. Frequent use of Figaro weaving began to bear the name Cartier.
Hearts as jewelry links gave the Love technique its name.- The similarity of paper clips with twisted links became the basis for the name Skrepka. Some prefer to see these links as similar to a snail. In any case, these are 2 names for the same type of armor weaving.
- If the name Snake is associated with a snake, it will be due to the similarity of the finished product to the body of a snake. Very small links that look like a single whole give the impression that there is a small gold (silver) snake on the body. This is a delicate and delicate decoration. Many people prefer to call snake weaving not a chain, but a cord.
- Beautiful, one might even say ornate curls, similar to a rose, gave the name to the type of armored compound of the same name.
Twisted chains – Singapore and Corda are especially popular among women. Light, openwork, shiny and at the same time durable, they have earned recognition from many fans of beautiful and high-quality jewelry.
Anchor weaving
The anchor type of link connection is considered the most popular and easiest to implement. The weave is borrowed from the marine technique of rope tying and is a “ring + ring” type connection. A large number of variations have been developed based on the classic compound. Anchor weaving can involve links of different sizes and shapes, which form from one to several rows. Composite elements can be rotated along or against each other's axis.
Anchor weaving is often found in gold items. Chains go well with pendants and pendants. The “Cartier” type refers to a type of anchor connection. The links have different sizes, are combined into groups of 3-8 pieces, each group is connected to the previous one with a separate oval-shaped link.
In “ribbon” or “knitted” weaving, the links are thick, massive, and tightly connected to each other. Visually, the decoration resembles a gold ribbon. This type of product will suit a business suit or a formal dress.
The garibaldi weave is named after the Italian hero-liberator. It looks heavy, suitable for masculine looks.
“Giotto” is the strongest connection, which, even if one of the links accidentally breaks, will not completely collapse or be lost. In Russia, this connection is called “curtains”. The links are thin in cross section and have the shape of rings. A group of several rings is connected by another group of rings, which is located in a different plane. The “giotto” chain looks modern and the ex is a classic anchor weave, which has a jumper in the middle of the links.
Technological features of weaving
There are several weaving methods that allow you to create unique jewelry:
- Machine knitting is performed on modern equipment and is based on process automation. The latest technology makes it possible to weave jewelry whose links are less than a millimeter thick.
- Handwork is used in the manufacture of types of weaving that cannot be done on a machine. The minimum weight of handmade chains is from 6 grams. The impeccable quality of workmanship is determined by the degree of professionalism of the chain jeweler. The painstaking weaving of jewelry chains consists of winding gold or silver wire around a workpiece and cutting it into rings of the same size. The links are compressed using pliers. The connector of each link is soldered. Labor-intensive work is highly valued.
- The stamped chain is assembled from blanks. The links are threaded into one another without soldering. The finished decoration may become deformed, twisted and less durable.
Most popular chains
This weaving was invented for heavy chains weighing more than 100 grams, but it turned out to be too beautiful and practical to remain aside. So this method began to be used for the production of thin light chains. It can be made either manually or using machinery. By the way, Bismarck weaving is especially popular in Russia.
This weaving is often called “Byzantine” and “Royal” - and all options are correct. The ornate interweaving of rings makes it one of the most beautiful and feminine weaves. Of course, this also affects the strength - such a chain will withstand heavy pendants.
Fox tail chain weaving is often equated to Byzantine chain weaving. But even at first glance, the difference is striking. “Fox tail” - weaving is more smooth and dense. Its links fit into a strong chain like a puzzle. A thick chain of this type of weaving cannot be broken by hand.
You can guess its name from the appearance of the chain. Weaving differs sharply from others in the fastening of the links - in a “rope” they are tightly connected to each other and twisted with a rope. This feature makes the chain strong and allows you to wear heavy pendants and crosses. At the same time, it turns out to be so self-sufficient and elegant that it can be worn without additional pendants.
The exceptionally feminine Rose or Courage weave is impressive. Its details in the form of buds are made not of simple links, but of spiral ones. Due to this design, the chain looks voluminous and airy, but in fact has good strength.
“Caprice” or “Python” is another type of durable weaving. Most often it is done manually. It is one of the few chains that can be worn independently without additional accessories. Beautiful, laconic, airy.
Singapore for romantics
Singapore weave looks feminine and suits girls of all ages.
Ring-shaped links form the product, twist beautifully, creating shine and shimmer of the sun on the neck. This is the most romantic option of all the chains. Thin chains are complemented with a cross or a small pendant; a thick chain looks self-sufficient without additional elements.
You need to choose a pendant for a twisted chain wisely and try it on right at the time of purchase in a jewelry store. A large, heavy pendant will pull back the chain and cause it to break. A light pendant will flutter along the entire length of the product, creating the effect of untidiness. Singapore chains are ideal for everyday wear and complement your look with romance and grace.
Types of chain weaving
When choosing jewelry, the main criterion is the weaving of chains made of gold and silver. There are only three basic weaving technologies: anchor, shell and bismarck. All the rest are fantasy. The artistic configurations of each are distinguished by simple or intricate knitting of links and have given life to many variations:
- Anchor knitting attracts with its uncomplicated simplicity. Externally, the weaving of the links resembles an anchor chain. The classic version assumes an oval shape of the links. If the links are round, then this is “Rollo” or “Chopard”, after the name of the fashion house Chopard, which ensured the popularity of the original type of knitting. The technology of weaving with links of two rings is called “Double Anchor”.
- Armor weaving impresses with the decorative shine of its polished edges. It is distinguished by chain links that are knitted not perpendicularly, but in a single plane. The name is explained by its resemblance to a chain mail shell. There are single, double and triple weaving - it all depends on the number of rings being fastened. Knitting with diamond-shaped elements is called “Rhombus”. The most elegant armor weaving “Nonna”. The double-sided diamond cut gives it a spectacular shine.
- “Bismarck” is one of the most complex weavings and is most often accompanied by manual work. Knitting is formed by elements consisting of several rings. Double, triple or quadruple weave technology guarantees increased strength.
- Fantasy weaving combines different types of designs in different proportions. Design changes instantly respond to new jewelry trends.
Armor weaving chains made of silver and gold: advantages
The armored style has a large number of advantageous features, thanks to which it has gained popularity. Let's look at the main ones:
- high level of strength. A special type of connection of parts gives the design reliability and guarantees a long service life;
- versatility. The armored weaving of a gold chain is perfect for both representatives of the strong and weak half of humanity;
- extensive selection. Since there are many subtypes, the client can choose a unique model from a wide range of jewelry.
Of course, the stylish design of the structures is also an advantage. In this variation of weaving it is more pronounced than in alternative types, therefore it can easily emphasize any outfit and the advantages of a person’s appearance.
Features of armor weaving
The technology is similar to the anchor method. In both situations, the links must be connected in series with each other, but for armored chains, each element is located at the same level. The specific appearance is achieved by craftsmen by twisting individual rings. At the last stage, the product must be sanded. This is done to add shine. Weaving can be done either by machine or by hand. The cost of the latter jewelry is higher, because the finished single chains are unique.
Armored chain weaving: features and advantages
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Chains are a unique decoration. It looks graceful on a woman’s neck, and makes men more brutal. Different types of weaving are chosen for different purposes. Today, the jewelry world offers a rich variety of them. One of the most popular is “Armor” weaving of chains, which has a lot of features and advantages.
Externally, “Shell” knitting may resemble “Anchor” knitting, but their difference lies in the technology of creation. In both cases, the links are sequentially fastened, but in the first option they are at the same level, tightly adjacent to each other and turning into an even line. The process of making Shell chains is relatively simple, which is why they are so widely used everywhere. They can be found in the form of a necklace, bracelet or decorative elements of earrings and other accessories.
“Shell” weaving chains are practical due to the absence of protruding angular parts. They are comfortable to move throughout the day and can be worn at any pace of life. Thanks to its flatness and laconicism, the decoration is perfect for combination with pendants. It will elegantly highlight the neck line and fit perfectly into a minimalist look, and for a brighter outfit you should choose models with large links - your outfit will become unusual and unique.
The density of the links gives incredible strength to the chain; it can withstand any impact without deforming and remaining without defects. Reliable adhesion of the parts makes it durable during long-term wear: it is almost impossible to tear. Another feature of the “Shell” weaving chain is the ability to add a luxurious shine to the jewelry using diamond cutting. So it becomes an independent full-fledged accessory.
The cost of “Shell” weaving chains is quite high due to the large weight of the product, since solid links are used to make this type, not hollow ones. This jewelry is the best solution for an unforgettable, long-lasting gift for a particularly important occasion. When presenting such a chain to a loved one, it is impossible to go wrong, since its design is universal: everyone likes it and suits everyone.
The absence of unnecessary details allows the “Armor” weaving of chains to remain at the peak of popularity. It goes well with other varieties, as well as with other decorations, ideally serving as a base decoration. These chains are timeless; they suit both charismatic men and sophisticated girls.
Manufacturing technique
The principle of armor weaving is similar to anchor weaving. In both cases, the links are sequentially connected to each other, only in the anchor one - the links are located perpendicular to each other, and in the armored one - all the elements are as if in the same plane, reminiscent of a shell. This appearance is achieved due to the fact that the individual rings are slightly twisted and resemble an unfinished figure eight. At the last stage, the chain is polished to give it greater shine.
Jewelry stores offer models of jewelry made on a machine or by hand. The latter are much more expensive, but such a chain is unique.
Armor chain weaving: what is it?
The ancestor of armored weaving is anchor weaving. Based on the anchor technology, this type of combination of elements with a single connection principle appeared: each component is sequentially combined with the other, and fused in the right place. However, the two techniques have different assembly methods. Armor weaving requires beveled weaving of parts so that they are located in the same plane. Then you can create products with a smaller volume from them.
Let's consider the features and properties of armor weaving:
- the structures are flat: the links are bent in the shape of a figure eight and connected almost parallel to each other;
- The models have a special attractive shine, thanks to careful double-sided grinding.
Moreover, many products are presented with a metal ribbon, in some cases with a cord. For example, small components that are located widely from one another create an openwork effect. Such options are ideal for representatives of the fair half of humanity. To create men's chains and bracelets, jewelers connect large pieces and place them close together. This makes it possible to make them more massive, which emphasizes masculine features.
When choosing a design, you need to pay attention to the filling level of the jewelry. The integrity of the links does not indicate the choice of a similar weaving option. Shell-type products are found both full-weight and blown. Of course, it is better to give preference to the first options, since full-weight jewelry has a high level of strength and reliability.
Where to begin
Before you buy a chain, you should decide on some details that directly affect the price of the product and its appearance. First, you need to decide what metal your jewelry will be made of, then choose the knitting method, filling the links, and at the very end decide on the type of weaving and style.
Typically, jewelry is made from three metals: gold, silver and platinum. Much will depend on the purity, purity and type of metal when determining the price. Each metal has several sample options, indicating its purity, as well as the presence of other impurities in the alloy.
Technological breakthroughs have made their work much easier for many professions; innovations have also affected the jewelry market. If previously all products were made by hand, now machines have come to the aid of craftsmen, which do their job no worse than their own, but still they do not reach the strength of hand weaving. That is why most jewelers still try to adhere to the traditional way of doing their work, since it is the proven method that ensures the high quality of their work and allows each link to be more reliably secured.
There are three methods of chain knitting: stamping, machine knitting and hand knitting.
Hand knitting is the most complex, expensive and traditional, but at the same time the strongest and most durable. This method requires enormous patience, perseverance, as well as jewelry talent. To begin with, the metal wire is stretched onto a spiral machine, with the help of which the links of the desired diameter and size are cut, and then the chain jeweler manually connects each link in a certain order to obtain the desired pattern. Then the links are soldered and, if the jewelry must be flat, the chain is passed through jewelry rollers.
Machine knitting is performed by special equipment designed for knitting jewelry. When stamping, ready-made links are used, but they are not soldered, but simply threaded into one another. Unfortunately, such products do not have high strength and are most often subject to deformation.
Another choice that buyers face is the type of wire. Chains are made from two types of metal wire: hollow or solid. Hollow products are only visually bloated and massive; in fact, they are empty from the inside, and in terms of weight, these products, as a rule, are not heavy at all. But the price of such jewelry is much lower.
Solid chains are more expensive and heavier, but at the same time stronger and more beautiful than hollow ones. These pieces of jewelry are much easier to care for, and if a link becomes deformed, it is easier to repair. If a solid link breaks, then the craftsman only needs to reconnect and fuse it, but if a hollow link breaks, repairs are excluded. It is much easier to completely replace a broken hollow link or remove it altogether than to repair it.
Advantages
Whatever the technique for making an armored chain, the product retains its advantages.
- All decorations are durable. They are perfect for those who plan to wear them with a pendant.
- Smooth links do not cling to clothing and do not cause discomfort to the skin.
- Weaving is suitable for both men's and women's jewelry. It all depends on the size of the links. It is believed that “shells” are more typical for the stronger half of humanity. But if the elements are small, then they make an elegant feminine decoration. In this case, the strength of the chain is not lost.
- For greater shine, armored chains are decorated with a diamond cut. Then they play beautifully in the light and add solidity to their wearer. Jewelry made of red gold will emphasize your high status.
- Due to the fact that armored chains are very strong, they are difficult to deform. Such products can even be found in 999 gold. In general, this alloy is impractical for accessories, since pure gold is quite soft. But jewelers use such gold to create armored chains, vouching for their durability.
Armor weaving
The technology for making armored joints is similar to knitting chain mail. The links are connected to each other in the same plane, both sides are ground to prevent twisting. This type of fastening is considered the most reliable.
This type has varieties. “Figaro” is a group of identical links connected by a larger link. There are products in which the “figaro” is made with the inclusion of links from different materials, for example, two-component chains made of white and yellow gold.
Among the female half of humanity, chains with armored weaving of the “Cobra” type are popular. The decoration is hollow and consists of tightly compressed parts. The chain twists interestingly, reminiscent of a snake. You can find voluminous jewelry, and, conversely, thin, incredibly graceful ones.
"Nona" is the most elegant embodiment of the armored compound. One group of links consists of two elongated ovals of different sizes. The large oval of the next group is connected to the small oval, which in turn is intertwined with the large one from the previous group. The product is made manually or by machine. The weave looks very smooth, plays beautifully in the sun, and attracts attention. Young girls love such chains, and mature ladies complement the decoration with a pendant with a precious stone.
“Persian” weaving is a type of chain mail, consisting of large round links, often two-color.
Figure-8 shaped links make armor weaving even more interesting. Spraying the elements will create a beautiful iridescence. The Turtle connection is interesting, but not practical. The links cling to hair and clothing, creating inconvenience to wear.
“Love” looks like a subtype of chain mail and has the shape of “heart” links. The chain is weightless, light, appears like a gold thread, ideal for little fashionistas and teenage girls. The product does not twist and does not cling to hair. “Fox tail” has flat edges in its structure, connected “link to link”. The product shimmers beautifully in the sunlight. This species has its roots in the distant past, in the Bronze Age. All links of the product are laid in one plane, which gives it sophisticated elegance.
Solid or hollow: what's the difference?
There are significant differences between solid and hollow shell chains. The first option is performed on factory machines and connected with an element made of whole wire. Features of the one-piece version:
- increased strength;
- greater weight of gold;
- high price.
Machine chains may have additional weaves. It is allowed to use pendants with an optimal weight of 1/3 of the weight of the chain. In most jewelry stores, full-length jewelry predominates.
Hollow shell chains are made by hand. They rarely tear (they can withstand up to 16 kg). Forced rupture is excluded. During the manufacturing process, specialists deliberately leave a weak point - a strong jerk leads to the extension of the carbine ring. This is done to minimize the risks associated with neck injury after severe strain.
In practice, hand-woven chains are much more expensive than their machine-made counterparts. The price is justified by the long time of use and quality characteristics of the product.
Armor weaving of silver chains
A silver chain is one of the most popular accessories worn by both women and men of any age. This piece of jewelry emphasizes style and individuality and fits perfectly into any wardrobe. In addition, silver always looks light and fresh, so it is suitable for daily wear, unlike some gold products. This is also an excellent option for an inexpensive gift, suitable for everyone, regardless of gender, age and social status. Nowadays, jewelers create a variety of chain models that differ in weight, thickness, design and type of weaving.
Pharaoh, echo of Ancient Egypt
This type of connection has been known since the reign of Pharaoh Tutankhamun. On his mummy in the tomb, archaeologists found a decoration with an interesting weave. The “Pharaoh” chain consists of links located in longitudinal and transverse planes. The rings create an openwork look; between them there is an empty space filled with air. The product looks voluminous and is suitable for respectable men and mature ladies. The “Pharaoh” connection is considered the most resistant to abrasion and has a long service life.
