How to choose the right emerald cut diamond?


Emeralds are one of the most expensive stones in the world, along with diamonds, sapphires and rubies. In Russia, at the legislative level, it is a convertible currency and can be exchanged for foreign currencies. They can also be used to pay in international transactions. Jewelry, including emeralds, is evaluated not only by its carat weight, but also by other criteria, such as clarity, color, cut. Much depends on the last criterion; it directly affects the beauty of the form. Rectangular emerald is just one of the classic cut options for this beautiful stone.

Processing Features

The emerald cut in the girdle plane has the shape of a rectangle, the corners of which are beveled. Refers to the step type of cut. A classic faceted stone requires the presence of 65 facets: a platform, 3 tiers of trapezoidal crown edges (8 edges per tier) and 4 tiers of trapezoidal pavilion edges (also 8 edges per tier). In older versions of this cutting there is a culet.

"Emerald" has unique optical properties. In terms of the play of light, it is inferior to the round cut and the “princess” cut, but surpasses them in the strength and brightness of the returned light flux.

Which edge processing method should you prefer: “radiant” or “emerald”

If you like stones with moderate shine and without excessive shine, made in the shape of a rectangle, then you should choose a diamond with edges processed in the “emerald” way. The main thing when choosing diamonds is to make sure that the color scale is high: H or G, and the clarity grade: VS1-VS2 or higher. Don't forget to make sure the diamond doesn't have any yellow spots or obvious blemishes. If you like the emerald cut shape, and you are delighted with the sparkling and shiny traditional diamonds, then the radiant cutting method is suitable for you.

Stones suitable for emerald cutting

The emerald cut, specially designed for emeralds and other beryls that tend to be brittle, is now used on both colored gemstones, jewelry, and diamonds.

Thus, a bright pink emerald-cut Pink Legacy diamond weighing 18.46 carats was sold in 2022 at Christie's auction in Geneva for $50.3 million to the Swatch Group, which owns the Harry Winston jewelry brand. This lot ranked second among the most expensive pink diamonds ever sold at auction. The stone received a new name - The Winston Pink Legacy.

The 6.8-carat Cullinan VIII diamond, given to Queen Mary in 1910 by the South African government, is an emerald-cut diamond. The stone was used as a brooch decorating the corsage for the Delhi Durbar.

What types of cuts are there?

The main forms of mineral processing are square or rectangle, oval, marquise, drop. But even listing a few basic forms will not give a complete idea of ​​what they can be. Many owners may prefer individually cut emeralds.

The cut of emerald stones and their shape are not the same concept. The processed mineral is represented by a certain geometric figure - an oval, a rectangle, a circle - this is its shape. A faceted stone is a mineral that has been cut; it can have different variations of faces: there can be different numbers of them, they can be located differently, they will have different outlines and proportions. Emeralds of similar shapes can be cut in a variety of ways.

Jewelry examples

Rings, earrings, and necklaces are encrusted with emerald-cut stones. One of the most striking examples of emerald-cut jewelry is Meghan Markle’s aquamarine ring, given to her by Prince Harry on the eve of her wedding. At one time, this jewelry belonged to Princess Diana.

The most expensive ring from the collection of actress Elizabeth Taylor, a big fan of jewelry, has the same cut. The diamond, a gift from my husband, weighs 33.19 carats. The actress was also the owner of the luxurious BVLGARI Cleopatra demi-parure, which features an emerald-cut Colombian emerald necklace.

Cost of emeralds

The cost of a cut stone varies due to various factors, from eight to twenty thousand dollars per carat.
1 carat is equal to 0.2 g. The greater the weight of the stone, the more carats it has, and the higher the price. But in the case of emerald, the price is determined not only by weight. This mineral without any defects is very rare, and therefore many stones that weigh more than tens of carats have no significant value due to their defects. In addition to weight, the price of an emerald is influenced by color - it should be rich, dark green. Factors such as transparency and cleanliness also play an important role. The cost of a stone can be influenced by the region in which it was mined, the weight of the stone after cutting, the presence of a certificate from trusted laboratories, the quality of its cutting, the symmetry of the edges and the quality of polishing. Methods used to improve the color and clarity of an initially flawed stone also affect its value.

Experts count up to sixty shades of emerald. In accordance with Russian standards, only five color groups are taken into account.

Today, top quality emeralds are quite rare, and therefore cost significantly more than a diamond of the same carat.

Buy color G or aim higher?

Generally, if you want the best and have the money to buy a colorless stone, it is up to you to decide whether you want a diamond in the DEF range. However, if you don't mind saving money, the G stone will serve you just as well.

It should be kept in mind that the only time someone will be able to tell the difference between a G and a colorless diamond is when they are placed next to each other and compared.

Even then, you will have a very hard time telling the difference, and chances are no one will be able to tell what grade your stone is when you wear it.

If you are setting your diamond in a non-ferrous metal such as yellow gold, how colorless the stone is will matter even less because the reflection of the setting color will make the stone appear slightly colored.

In this case, don’t bother paying extra for colorlessness. In fact, you can safely choose colors even lower than G—I or J, for example, can be just as good for colored frames.

Who suits emerald according to their zodiac sign?

Horoscopes have a very ambiguous attitude towards this stone, but common points can still be traced in different studies, for example:

  • Taurus is 100% their mineral, completely matching the energy field with the down-to-earth and melancholic owner. The amulet will give the right dose of self-confidence to achieve goals for which you lacked determination.
  • Gemini - the story is a little different. The dualism of mood inherent in the sign sometimes requires a decisive switch, which is achieved by periodically wearing emerald jewelry. Plus, astrologers believe that the stone is good at attracting money.
  • Cancer is a similar situation to Taurus. Representatives of the water element, who are quite closed in their own thoughts, sometimes need an incentive to open up to the people around them. And aesthetically, the accessory will suit a sophisticated nature.

But those who should be wary of this kind of jewelry are Scorpio and Capricorn. Both zodiac signs are already endowed with inner stubbornness, a degree of nonconformism, which can result in unhealthy impulses of selfishness and even cruelty.

The meaning of emerald in Feng Shui culture

Chinese philosophical teaching has a special attitude towards the stone, if only for its jade hue, which is considered sacred in the Celestial Empire. It symbolizes nature, absolute harmony with the surrounding world and achieving emotional balance. Here are just a few striking examples of how the importance of the mineral in the life of the owner is explained:

  • The gem allows you to reveal your inner compassion for other people. Energy resists innate egoism, facilitates understanding of the problems of loved ones, and gives consolation to the suffering soul. This is the matter of generosity and mercy.
  • The darker the crystal, the more strongly it is charged with the power of the Tree - one of the five pillars of Feng Shui. On the one hand, it attracts material wealth and success in business endeavors. The other reveals creative growth, hidden talents to create.
  • The green color itself is the embodiment of the eastern side of the world, so the teaching strictly prohibits storing jewelry in the northern or western rooms of the house. They are antagonists, harboring the mundane needs of man.
  • Finally, jade shades accompany the feminine Yin principle. It bestows receptivity and, according to yoga, reveals the Anahata heart chakra to the world. Therefore, the stone is recommended to be worn more often by the fair half of humanity.

Important: Feng Shui is sensitive to jewelry as a gift. Green gems cannot be presented as gifts for birthdays or public celebrations. But giving jewelry from the bottom of your heart as payment for services or as a gift to a sick person for recovery is the best step.

Varieties

Among all emeralds, two rare gemological types can be distinguished: emeralds with a cat's eye effect and trapice emeralds. The cat's eye effect, or, in other words, the effect of a running light stripe, will appear in stones processed in the form of a cabochon, and this type should contain elongated parallel needle-like inclusions or channels inside. Crystals of the “trapiche” variety have graphite inclusions inside, which are located in certain sectors. If you make cross sections of such a crystal, you can see that graphite inclusions form a 6-rayed star inside the crystal (see photo). Trapiche emeralds are mainly mined in Colombia. Such species are quite rarely seen in jewelry. Both of these species have a very high collection value.


In the photo: trapice emeralds from Colombia

— The first part discusses the main factors in choosing an emerald: color, clarity and weight. — In the third part we will show you the real prices for emerald per carat.

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What is the difference between grade G and DEF?

Let's see how the G diamond compares to the Colorless varieties. It is true that grade G is more colored than D, E or F, but this difference is only noticeable when the stone is viewed from the side.

Even then, any change in color is very difficult to make out, and you have to have very sharp eyesight indeed to notice the difference. And when viewed from above, a G diamond is almost as colorless as DEF stones.

Overall, to the average client, a G diamond is virtually indistinguishable from the colorless range when viewed with the naked eye.

Advantage of G-color diamonds.

We can confidently say that G-stones look colorless to most people, but is there anything that makes them a better choice than diamonds with higher color quality?

Perhaps the biggest difference for G-stones is the price - these diamonds are cheaper than diamonds in the Colorless range, and the difference can range from several hundred to several thousand dollars.

If you have determined that your budget allows you to go no higher than the Near Colorless range, a G graded diamond is the closest to the Colorless group, but without the significant price tag.

How to wear and care

Mature women are recommended to choose jewelry framed in gold, and girls - in silver. To get the maximum effect, you should wear a set of earrings, a necklace and a ring with emeralds. Rings are worn on the little finger; single people should put them on the ring finger - this will positively change their personal life in the near future.

With frequent migraines, girls should give preference to earrings with gems, and men - pendants or bracelets. Emerald is highly durable and difficult to damage, but this gem still needs proper care:

  • It is recommended to remove the jewelry while doing household chores: the stone does not react well to chemicals;
  • wear jewelry after applying makeup: cosmetics negatively affect the condition of the mineral;
  • Store emeralds in a cool, dark place and in a separate box or bag made of soft fabric.

The amulet with these stones should be cleaned with a mild soap solution, and any remaining moisture should be removed with a napkin. For maximum protection, jewelers recommend applying a special protective layer to the surface of the emerald: it will significantly extend the life of the product.

Magic properties

Emerald is valued by esotericists and magicians due to its magical properties:

  • reveals the gift of foresight, helps to see prophetic dreams;
  • harmonizes spiritual and physical condition, eliminates negative energy;
  • relieves bad thoughts, protects against depression and conflicts;
  • protects the family from damage and gossip, strengthens feelings between spouses;
  • protects during travel or extreme recreation;
  • enhances creativity and activates inspiration;
  • attracts good luck, helps to achieve success in all endeavors.

Who wears emeralds more often - men or women?

If no questions arise about the shades, then gender reveals an abyss of disputes that have lasted for centuries. Each country or world region has developed its own tradition and etiquette standards, hence the completely different associations. For example, conservative Greeks are sure that emerald is 100% a masculine stone, and that it is inappropriate for ladies to wear it.

The Arab-Eastern world, on the contrary, attributes green crystals to the divine power, the bearer of which is a woman. Moreover, in the Middle East, it is customary to give emerald jewelry to the bride on her wedding day. It is believed that they will protect the future wife from the evil eye, and when she becomes pregnant, such an amulet will help to bear and give birth to a healthy child.

The Russian tradition of wearing items with emerald dates back to the era of Ivan the Terrible; there are even memories of the autocrat who admired the overseas stone and believed that it would protect the owner from all sorts of evil. True, only those close to the royal throne could afford to buy such luxury - the boyars themselves or their beautiful wives.

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