A prefabricated gemstone is made up of a combination of two or more materials. Doublets and triplets of gemstones, intarsia and rhinestones are well-known examples. In this article, we will discuss how prefabricated gemstones are created.
The New World P Faceted Doublet from Mark Oros is a Mintabi opal cut, placed on an Arkansas quartz backing and re-cut. © Hashnu Stones & Gems
Doublets and triplets of precious stones
Most gemstone lovers will easily recognize doublets and triplets, especially the opal varieties. Opals often occur as thin sheets of material within a host or matrix rock. Although they are beautifully colored, some deposits are too thin and fragile to be used for decoration. However, gluing one of these thin layers onto a solid base such as black onyx or black opal creates a doublet or triplet. A doublet is a thin layer of opal glued to a black base. The triplet adds a clear top layer.
Opal doublet. © Opalcutters23
Combining these materials achieves two goals. First, the base provides the thickness and strength needed to install the tacks. The finished jewelry product is quite resistant to wear. Secondly, the dark color of the backing underneath the translucent gemstone makes it appear black or dark grey. As a result, against this dark background, the play of color of the gemstone material becomes very contrasting.
The exposed surface of the opal doublet is still relatively soft. Therefore, jewelry owners should handle them with care. All opal jewelry requires special care and cleaning. However, well-made and well-maintained doublets look wonderful and make jewelry quite durable.
Left: Opal doublet ready for setting. Right: opal doublet jewelry. © Artistic Colored Stones
Doublets made of cut gemstones
Doublet gemstones can also be cut, as you can see below. First, the gem cutter brings the material to a “rough” state. The material is then cut to achieve a specific optical effect.
Orion's Belt C faceted doublet from Mark Oros. © Hashnu Stones & Gems
Are Boulder Opals Doublets of Natural Gemstones?
Boulder opals form on a matrix of brown ironstone and can sparkle with a blinding flame. Matrix opals are made up of precious opal particles that form in a rock matrix, usually sandstone. Matrix opals and boulder opals are called “natural doublets” by some sellers. But this is not true, such a statement is an oxymoron. Gem cutters create thin opal sheets from these natural materials on the surface of a natural matrix. These are not prefabricated stones.
Boulder fell from Carisbrooke Station near Winton, Queensland, Australia. © JJ Harrison
Triplet with opal
Opal triplets have a colorless, usually dome-shaped cap attached to the doublet. Most often, these caps are made of durable, scratch-resistant materials such as rock crystal, quartz, synthetic colorless spinel, or even synthetic colorless sapphire. Although triplets are quite durable, they usually lack the natural look of well-made doublets.
A triplet of opal with clearly visible layers: a transparent quartz cap, a thin layer of opal and a dark background
Prefabricated Ammolite Gemstones
Ammolites are iridescent, iridescent layers of fossilized shells of ammonites, extinct mollusks related to modern nautiluses. As the popularity of these gemstones grew, doublets and triplets made of this material entered the market.
Exhibition of ammolites. © Sandra Cohen-Rose and Colin Rose
Although these thin and extremely fragile layers are highly prized, they are on a relatively soft matrix. Therefore, virtually all ammolites are, at a minimum, resin impregnated to ensure stability using a patented vacuum sealing process. Even these pieces, called “hard ammolites,” remain fragile and must be set in a highly protective jewelry setting to reduce wear. However, doublets and triplets make ammolites more durable and allow them to be used in many types of jewelry.
Left: ammolite doublet decoration. Right: jewelry with ammolite triplet. © Artistic Colored Stones
Sample analysis
It is sometimes difficult or even impossible to distinguish a real emerald from an artificial one without going to an expert. One way is to check in ultraviolet light, although this does not always help.
This method screens out glass and various imitations. However, synthetic stones and some natural ones have almost the same colors when shined through. For example, fluorite will be red, like natural emerald, but a slightly different shade (softer). It is also difficult to distinguish Colombian color emerald.
There are other testing methods that are not available at home. A common one is the Chelsea filter. It helps to recognize synthetic Chinese, but is powerless against Colombian color emerald.
In laboratories, hardness, refraction, structure, the presence of impurities in the channels and other parameters are determined. Even in the Middle Ages, fakes and originals were distinguished by weighing. This method is still suitable today. Although hardly anyone has special scales at home.
One magnifying glass is not always enough. Analysis requires knowledge and experience, for example:
- Natural inclusions are sometimes confused with air bubbles. An expert, by the number and type of cloudiness, will not only determine the authenticity, but will even tell where the emerald was mined or what stone was taken for counterfeiting. For example, in chrysoprase the inclusions will be in the form of “feathers”. These are special traces of growth.
- If the mineral is framed, it needs to be viewed from about two meters. The natural gem shimmers faintly from such a distance.
Natural high-quality emeralds, as a rule, have certificates from gemological laboratories. But due to the high cost of natural stone, the authenticity of the documents will also have to be checked.
Intarsia and precious stone inlays
Inlays are images or designs created by small, flat pieces of precious material placed in recesses in stone slabs. Some of these creations can resemble miniature mosaics when executed with precision and skill.
Coprolites - fossil excrement - consist mainly of calcium carbonates and silicates. They can be used to make very unusual gemstones, such as these cufflink inserts. © Jessa and Mark Anderson
If parts are instead inserted into channels in the metal, the results are called inlays.
Both intarsia and inlay illustrate why people make prefabricated stones. This involves using small or thin pieces of gemstone that might otherwise be worthless. They also provide gem lovers with unique, beautiful products not found in nature.
Left: Gemstone intarsia. Right: Gemstone inlay. © Artistic Color Stones
Origin story
Ring with hydrothermal emerald
Hydrothermal emerald is the second precious mineral obtained artificially after ruby. Its first experimental samples were created at the end of the 19th century. Over the course of 50 years, the technology has been constantly improved, trying to reproduce as much as possible the beauty and quality characteristics of natural emerald. As a result, the first gem-quality hydrothermal emerald, called igmerald, was grown in 1930.
From the second half of the twentieth century to the present day, production of artificial emeralds has been opened in many countries around the world. The largest number of them is concentrated in Russia, Thailand, Germany and Italy.
Mabe pearls
Mabe pearls are another example of beautiful prefabricated stones. Farmers make it from hollow blister pearls, which are collected from the shells of various mollusks. Abalone shellfish yield particularly valuable specimens. Because blister pearls form on the animal's shell rather than inside the body, they are not considered true pearls. A mother-of-pearl blister is cut out of the shell, filled with a special composition, a mother-of-pearl bead is inserted, and then glued to the mother-of-pearl back. Mabe pearls come in different sizes and styles. Thanks to its flat back, it is easily adjustable. Compared to cultured pearls of the same size, mabe pearls are an inexpensive alternative.
Price of products
Ring with hydrothermal emerald
The cost of hydrothermal emerald is affordable for everyone. So, a fairly large crystal costs between 5-10 dollars.
The price of jewelry with artificial stone is determined taking into account two main factors – the metal of the frame and the quality of the jeweler’s work. This gem is often framed in gold or platinum, and then its cost can reach several hundred dollars.
The cheapest are earrings, bracelets, rings and pendants made of jewelry alloy or silver.
Prefabricated stones for holiday rings
Although synthetic emerald is widely available, it remains quite expensive. This creates the need for a nice looking but less expensive substitute. As it turns out, the inexpensive flame melting process used to synthesize corundum and spinel can produce many colors. However, it cannot yet create a convincing emerald green color.
Currently, this task most often falls on the synthetic spinel triplet. Jewelers sell them in the thousands, if not millions, as artificial emeralds. This assembly consists of a clear synthetic spinel crown glued to a clear synthetic spinel pavilion with a layer of green glue, and looks pretty decent.
When did they start creating artificial hydrothermal emeralds?
The question of why it was necessary to grow artificial gems worried many minds several decades ago, because nature has given humanity quite a few deposits of these wonderful stones. The thing is that this type of beryl of a fairly large size is extremely rare in natural conditions, and if one is found, it will cost an enormous amount and only very rich people can afford to buy it.
In laboratories, scientists grow artificial emeralds of any size; in terms of their external characteristics, they are no worse than those created by nature. Hydrothermal emerald is a complete analogue of a real stone, unlike fakes made of glass, rhinestones and similar materials. It has purity, hardness, brilliance, transparency and structure, all those properties that are almost identical to a real gem.
Hydrothermal or synthetic stone was first obtained in 1888, then German scientists began researching and creating it in 1911. Until 1960, all developments related to the creation of synthetic emeralds were kept secret, but today such minerals are grown in many laboratories around the world and the technologies for their production can safely be called perfect.
Counterfeits and Fraud
Prefabricated stones have brought greater variety, beauty, practicality and affordability to the gemstone market. However, buyer must be careful. Although the heyday of prefabricated stones as deliberate counterfeits of gemstones has passed, you can still encounter unscrupulous dealers. Please note that gemstone doublets, back foils, or any other prefabricated stones are not inherently deceptive. However, if a seller offers them as natural or whole, “hard” gemstones, this would be a misrepresentation.
Garnet and glass doublet trick
If you're shopping for antique jewelry, look out for the infamous garnet and glass gemstone doublets. This trick is extremely convincing when done correctly.
The pavilion and most of the crown are made of glass. This glass can have almost any color: red for ruby, blue for sapphire, green for emerald, etc. A thin piece of natural garnet, usually red in color, is fused by heat, pressure or (less convincingly) glue into the center of the crown. You'd think you could tell them apart a mile away, right? In fact, well-made pieces look like real gemstones when viewed from above and have no visible boundary between glass and garnet. In addition, garnet provides strength, high shine, gloss, and even some natural inclusions when magnified. Once framed, these excellent fakes can pass all but the most rigorous inspections.
Definition of prefabricated gems
When mounted in a bezel-type setting, gemstone doublets become very convincing fakes. On the other hand, trying to pass off custom jewelry as something it is not proves to be just as challenging. For example, if you look at a solid opal from the side, you will see that it is a homogeneous material. Now look from the side at the unframed opal doublet. You will see a sharp boundary in a straight line between the opal and the base.
Natural boulder or matrix opals have irregularities and undulations between the opal layer and the matrix. These characteristics make them easy to distinguish from solid or doublet.
Of all the prefabricated gemstones, triplets are the easiest to identify. Even when mounted, their colorless crowns appear obvious from almost any angle.
AGTA Prefabricated Stones Catalog
Listing the many counterfeit gemstones you may encounter would take many pages. This sad chapter shows the diversity of human ingenuity. Fraudsters will try anything and, unfortunately, continue to find buyers. However, reputable dealers fully disclose the nature of the materials they sell.
The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has proposed standards for labeling gemstone treatments. The ASBL gem upgrade code identifies prefabricated gems.
Does a synthetic gem have magical properties?
Many people believe in the magical power of natural emerald, believing that it can protect against the evil eye, damage, cure many diseases, give women beauty and youth, and maintain well-being in the family.
Synthetic stones are created artificially, which means, as some people think, they are not endowed with magical powers, but experts say the opposite. It is believed that the mineral obtained by any method has special energy and strength. Today, nano emerald is a symbol of impeccability, purity and success.
There is an opinion that the gem is especially useful as a decoration for those who have problems with the cardiovascular and nervous systems. The mineral is ideal for nervous and hot-tempered people, having a beneficial effect on their mental state.
A pendant or brooch with a nano emerald will ease the condition of an asthmatic, and in order to cleanse the house of negative energy, one should place the crystal in each room for at least 10-12 hours, it is believed that after this procedure all adversity will leave its residents. The most powerful energy, as psychics say, is possessed by minerals of a rich, deep dark green color.
How does hydrothermal emerald affect different zodiac signs?
Having learned about the names of artificially grown stones, it is worth talking about the effect that wearing jewelry with them has on different zodiac signs. So, what does the gem promise to the following zodiac signs:
- Aries – success in business relationships;
- Taurus – energy;
- For Gemini - protection from the evil eye and damage;
- Cancer - to find peace of mind and win over hypertension;
- For Leos - a surge of strength;
- Libra and Virgo - to find peace of mind and overcome thyroid diseases;
- Scorpios - to find internal balance, pacify their stormy temper;
- Capricorns and Sagittarius – find inner peace and get rid of mental anxieties;
- For Pisces and Aquarius, the mineral guarantees success and happiness.
In astrology, it is believed that jewelry with these stones is best suited for such zodiac signs as Libra, Aries, Capricorn and Virgo.
