When the sun begins to warm up, you want to hide the fundamental pearls and stones deeper in the casket.
Vacation is the time for “ethnic” jewelry: large earrings, wide bracelets, voluminous beads and creative necklaces. What is valuable is made from unburdensomely democratic materials. Worldwide design houses have been including ethnic jewelry in their collections for a long time. Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Etro, Hermès, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Kenzo, Balmain, Christian Dior, Roberto Cavalli, John Galliano, Versace - they all regularly create bright, dynamic ethnic lines.
The fashion for ethnicity is not accidental. Spending our evenings watching National Geographic, we crave the exotic, at least in the slightest: a multi-row bracelet on the wrist, a ringing monstrous on the collarbone.
Ethnic style jewelry gives a reassuring masquerade effect in a monotonous city life.
History of jewelry ethnic style
Jewelry has always had a dual purpose for people: first of all, they were amulets and identification marks “friend or foe”, reflecting the family status of the owner and his position in society, and secondly, they played the role of accessories complementing clothes and hairstyle.
The most ancient jewelry in the world, now known to science, is pendants made of shells, once strung one after another in the form of beads. An 82,000-year-old accessory was found in 2007 during archaeological excavations in Morocco.
Neanderthals made crude jewelry of simple shapes not only from shellfish, but also from stones, claws, fangs and feathers of animals. Our ancestors, representatives of the biological species Homo sapiens (Homo sapiens, in the course of evolution appeared on Earth, according to scientists, about 40 thousand years ago), went further. They mastered natural materials that were more difficult to process: clay, wood, metal; household and decorative products of Homo sapiens have become more aesthetically pleasing.
Each nation formed its own culture, which is why decorations in the “folklore” style are so diverse. In ethnicity, from the point of view of its roots, the following directions are distinguished: Egyptian, Greek, Slavic, Indian, Indian, Arabic, African and Oriental (Japanese, Chinese) styles.
Fashionable ethnics
Throughout the ages, women have loved to decorate themselves. Currently, “ethnics” are in trend. Beads, earrings, bracelets, rings, belts, pendants, handbags and other jewelry or accessories in ethnic style have always been in fashion.
Jewelry is always in trend
Products with a national character can add zest to an evening outfit, become a bright accent in an everyday look, and even enliven a business outfit. According to the designers, you can wear “ethnics” with anything and anytime. The main thing is to choose what will be appropriate at a certain time in a certain place.
There is plenty to choose from - today all the leading fashion houses in the world offer their collections of jewelry and accessories in the “folk” style. Nowadays almost no show is complete without ethnic “additives”.
Ethnic style is very bright, which is why many designers from all over the world love it so much.
Main features of ethnic jewelry style
Materials and decoration techniques. Traditional jewelry has long been made not only from cheap materials that are always at hand (cane, leather, clay, wood, textiles), but also from expensive ones: ivory, gold, silver, pearls and other precious stones. The most common decoration techniques are painting, engraving, perforation, inlay, and enamel coating.
Forms of decorations . Ethnic style is associated with freedom, closeness to nature and celebration, so jewelry in this style is voluminous, massive, multi-layered - in a word, bright and noticeable. Their geometry is simple, since it repeats the shapes seen in the environment.
Leading motifs in jewelry design . Ethnic style is a child of nature and its quote. Generation after generation of jewelers create stunning jewelry with plant and animal motifs, as well as traditional patterns that once had a sacred meaning.
Typical decorations . Hoop earrings, pendant earrings, tassel earrings, smooth rings with or without decoration (corrugation, perforation, etc.), rings, large pendants, necklaces and bracelets in the shape of hoops, wide bracelets, monista necklaces, garland necklaces, chains, beads.
Features of traditional folk jewelry
Real national jewelry is characteristic and easily recognizable. By the way, this is what distinguishes them from ethnic jewelry - a more smoothed fashionable stylization with “folk elements.”
Traditional jewelry is often covered with embossed or filigree designs. They can be large, like a patterned brooch or pendant on the temples, hair or chest, or multi-part. Vivid examples are sets of thin hoops for arms or legs and monistic necklaces made of small coins.
Examples of traditional jewelry of different nations
Türkiye, Afghanistan, Pakistan
Their own varieties of national jewelry were intended for residents of any gender and age - women, men, children and the elderly:
As part of a folk costume, jewelry indicated a person’s national (tribal) affiliation and status. Certain types of jewelry could even have a taboo character. For example, a widow could not wear the same thing as a “young woman,” and a “citizen from the street” did not dare to encroach on the “insignia” of a priest or leader.
Jewelry “decoration” of representatives of different nations of the world
Kenya, China, Baltic countries:
India, Tibet, Turkmenistan:
Connoisseurs of distant travels are especially familiar with the phenomenon of “national jewelry” - the most popular souvenir option. Usually this is an artisanal production line with a pronounced local flavor.
Examples of traditional jewelry of the peoples of Africa:
Examples of traditional jewelry of the peoples of India:
It is interesting that even today the semantic codes embedded in traditional products can be easily read. In the minds of most, the shamrock is Ireland, the lily is France, the Star of David is Israel, and auseklis is the morning star, the Latvian national symbol. Thus, reality, reduced to ornament, becomes a national emblem.
Trefoil, claddagh (symbol of friendship and fidelity), Celtic knot, triskelion and other symbols of Ireland:
French lily (fleur-de-lys):
Latvian "morning star" (auseklis):
Israeli Star of David, Hand of David (Khamsa):
Style as part of... style
Jewelry in ethnic style seems to be created for a summer (read: vacation) wardrobe with its flying, airy things that reveal the body. Where to look for inspiration? On the pages of fans of the hippie and boho-chic style (yes, we are hinting primarily at Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Nicole Richie and the Olsen sisters), on photo reports from music festivals (like Coachella), as well as at annual fashion week shows.
Sienna Miller Coachella 2017
Casket of Europe
Traditional decorations of the Baltic countries
The jewelry “load” of, say, Estonian women was hardly inferior to the ammunition of the eastern sisters. Neck and chest jewelry made of silver were in use: fibula hairpins, cone-shaped “kuhik-sypg” brooches (the author personally lost one, which she extremely regrets), flat ones, decorated at the edges with “prees” stones, woven chains, large, hollow inside wing beads.
Ukrainian national jewelry
Now listen: branzoleta, hryvnia, temples, namisto. Of course, these are the names of positions in the casket of the Ukrainian beauty. When my husband is on a hike, the box is a good emotional and material support.
“Dukachi” (dukachi) - a pendant with a large coin, usually used as a central element of necklaces, and “ducats” (ducati) - necklaces made of many coins, accompanied by beaded threads and other decorative elements:
“Zgardi” amulets necklace with Hutsul crosses:
Salbi - ducats made in the form of bib necklaces:
Corals are a favorite stone in Ukrainian jewelry, and “pisan patsorki” (pisanі patsorki) are multi-colored beads made of opaque glass or Venetian beads:
Jewelry traditions of the peoples of the Caucasus
The Caucasus is rightfully proud of its jewelry crafts: by the end of the 19th century, the Dagestan (Kubachi), Tbilisi, and Vladikavkaz schools dominated there. Armenian craftsmen worked primarily with gold. In Azerbaijan, gold was decorated with enamels.
Native patterns: traditions of Russian jewelry
How are Russian jewelry styles represented today (in reality, crafts)? The first to come to mind are enamel and filigree. And also beadwork - an extremely popular mass hobby on the verge of a trade. Of course, this also includes bone carving (Yakut, Kholmogory, Khotkovsk). “Under tsarism,” craftsmen artistically carved caskets, cups, etc., and today you can often find designer women’s bone jewelry—through, embossed or smooth.
Folk trail of folk decorations
How do real artifacts (that is, authentic national jewelry) end up in the family boxes of fellow citizens?
Option one: your rural great-great-grandmother saved her dowry chest in the slalom of history. Option two: one of the relatives took part in the endless exchange of “this for that” during the war years, not to mention trophy souvenirs. Another way is to reputably purchase “antiques” in thrift stores and flea markets.
Of course, even today you can find places where craftsmen sit and create national jewelry. But sales? How many of us alternately seven days a week decorate ourselves with Kholmogory bone carvings, Rostov enamel (in its classical style), Nizhny Novgorod filigree, bracelets and brooches from Palekh and Fedoskino? There is no prophet in his own country - remember “The Scarlet Flower”? “Bring me, father, Overseas attire.”
And yet: what to wear with traditional jewelry?
Wearing national jewelry is not as difficult as it might seem. Jeans and a T-shirt, any number (and location) of national jewelry will turn into hippie style. The abundance of southern, eastern, and Caucasian silver will decorate an outfit of dark, rich colors. The Baltic brooch will add a spicy note to your office look. Carved bone will romantically refresh clothes in dark colors (floral carving), but with denim clothes it can create the image of a lively beast (geometric carving).
So, decorations of all countries, unite! If not on a specific woman, then in a separate box.
Elvira Sviridova, especially for JEWELIRUM
When preparing the illustrations, the following sites were used:
https://local-moda.blogspot.ru/, https://www.uamodna.com/articles/ne-vyshyvankoyu-odnoyu/, collections of thematic illustrations on pinterest.com, etsy.com
Related resources:
Uzbek forehead decoration tilyagosha | Silver beads from Morocco
Jewelry Styles and Techniques | Classics in jewelry | Geometric style decorations | Jewelry primitivism | Minimalism in jewelry
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Works by designers from the JEWELIRUM catalog
- Co.Cos Jewelry
- Co.Cos Jewelry
- Taiga Jewelry, Tomsk
- Taiga Jewelry, Tomsk
- Ilya Maksimov, Crimea
- Ilya Maksimov, Crimea
- UBIRING
- UBIRING
- Diamonds are Forever
- Diamonds are Forever
- Rings in natural style, Sergacheva Jewelery
- Earrings with pearls, Sergacheva Jewelery
- Cabochon ring, Minty Sky
- Fly earrings, Minty Sky
- Ring, Precious Park
- Ring, Precious Park
- Snake skin ring, Stoyanova Jewelery
- Chain earrings, Stoyanova Jewelery
- Children's pendant - stick, Matthew&Daniel
- Pendant for a child, Matthew&Daniel
- Bracelet, Svetlana Subbotina
- Ring with Slavic symbols, Svetlana Subbotina
- Indian style ring, Anna Goffman
- Indian style ring, Anna Goffman
- Earrings, ISTA
- Geometric ring, ISTA
- Earrings with enamel, PNJewelry
- Ring with enamel, PNJewelry
- Ring, Khramtsova Jewelry
- Ring, Khramtsova Jewelry
- Wedding rings to order, obruchalki.com
- Wedding rings to order, obruchalki.com
- Earrings, Yuri Bylkov
- Earrings, Yuri Bylkov
- Titanium bracelets, LanaMuransky
- Titanium pendant, LanaMuransky
- Brooch Elephant (after Salvador Dali), THING
- Ring Veil, THING
- Mace earrings, VLADIMIR MARKIN
- Cufflinks, jewelry mechanics, VLADIMIR MARKIN
- Drop-shaped ring, EKATERINA TOLSTAYA
- Drop-shaped earrings, EKATERINA TOLSTAYA
- Necklace with amber, LETA
- Earrings with amber, LETA
- Children's earrings, combinable, FASHBY
- Children's earrings, combinable, FASHBY
- Ring of architectural form, Elizaveta Malafeevskaya MANU_L
- Architectural bracelet, Elizaveta Malafeevskaya MANU_L
- Set Ginkgo Leaf, SHABUT JEWELLERY
- Brooch Wearable porcelain, SHABUT JEWELLERY
- Architectural ring, GEOMETRY
- Brooch, porcelain, GEOMETRY
- Necklace made of polymer clay, LICORNE ART
- Brooch made of polymer clay, LICORNE ART
- Ring, avant-garde, VALERY SEREDIN
- Bracelet, avant-garde. VALERY SEREDIN
- Wooden set, Scandinavian/Japanese minimalism, VLADIMIR SHESTAKOV
- Ring, Scandinavian/Japanese minimalism, VLADIMIR SHESTAKOV
- Earrings, TON ANT
- Ring, TON ANT
- Architectural ring, ANCHOR
- Architectural necklace, ANCHOR
- Earrings, GOHFELD JEWELLERY
- Necklace, GOHFELD JEWELLERY
- Massive ring, YAKISCHIK
- Designer jewelry, YAKISCHIK
- Architectural ring, ONE DAY ART
- Architectural ring, ONE DAY ART
- Brooch, bionics, VALERIYA MARKOVA (TESSA)
- Unclosed ring, bionics, VALERIYA MARKOVA (TESSA)
- Ring, bionics, BEAVERS
- Earrings, bionics, BEAVERS
- Earrings, asymmetry, VAGANOVA JEWELRY
- Airplane ring, VAGANOVA JEWELRY
- Flower ring, ALCHEMIA JEWELLERY
- Set, ALCHEMIA JEWELLERY
- Pendant-cat, ethnic, STUDIO OF ILYA AND VERA PALKIN
- Earrings, STUDIO OF ILYA AND VERA PALKIN
Comments
- Svetlana
The decorations of Ukrainians coincide with Russians. Why were they singled out separately?
4 years ago Reply
Ethnic style jewelry on the catwalk
The spring-summer season is traditionally the main season for ethnicity. In the coming months, we simply cannot do without tassel earrings (like Saint Laurent) and hoop necklaces with massive pendants (Giorgio Armani). And perhaps the most noticeable trend is large earrings. Congo, like Cushnie Et Ochs, discs, like Missoni, figurines of birds and fish, like Tory Burch and Valentino, garlands, like Christopher Kane. Please note: earrings do not have to be paired!
Saint Laurent, spring-summer 2022
Giorgio Armani, spring-summer 2022
Missoni, spring-summer 2022 Tory Burch, spring-summer 2022 Christopher Kane, spring-summer 2017
Kinds
The most widespread ethnic styles are:
- Indian. Jewelry is large, bright, made mainly of metal with precious and non-precious stones. Lots of foot jewelry including toes, body accessories, original earrings, bracelets and necklaces.
- African. Products made of wood and metal, painted in bright colors, predominate. Multi-colored beads, massive necklaces, and large bracelets are often found.
- Greek. The jewelry is decorated with floral or geometric patterns. The colors are pastel, the lines are smooth and delicate. Tiaras and hair clips are widely used.
- Egyptian. Characteristic features are geometric patterns, images of gods and sacred animals. Jewelry - rings, bracelets, voluminous beads.
- Japanese. Decorations - with images of flowers, birds and plants. Animalistic and geometric patterns are often found. Brooches and wooden bracelets are common.
- Indian. Natural feathers, thin strips of leather, and wood are used to make jewelry. Earrings, beads and bracelets with characteristic Indian symbols are popular.
Russian ethnic style is also included in a separate category. It includes bright ornaments recreated using beads and colored enamel made of precious stones. Jewelry - moon earrings, Slavic amulets, rings and bracelets made of wood.
Ethnic jewelry on the red carpet
Ethnic style also feels confident on the red carpet. For example, last spring, during a royal tour of India and Bhutan, Duchess Catherine purchased jewelry from a street vendor - lapis lazuli hoop earrings with yellow metal decoration and pendants. The seven-dollar accessory looked good with the designer blue and white Naeem Khan dress Kate wore to the Taj Mahal.
Duchess Catherine
Jennifer Lopez
Heidi Klum
One of the most popular semi-precious stones at annual film and music ceremonies is turquoise. Jennifer Lopez, Sofia Vergara, Cate Blanchett and many others were seen wearing turquoise necklaces.
Current trend
It’s hard to say which ethnic accessories are especially fashionable now.
Ethnic style - trust your feelings
Everything is in demand - Indian “baubles”, African fangs and claws, multi-layered beads, Indian feathers, Slavic bright voluminous earrings and bulky earrings decorated with turquoise - ilong.
Ethnic style is fashionable
The opportunity to purchase “ethnics” from residents of big cities today can be found literally at every turn. Stylists warn: don’t overdo it!
Modern ethnic style
An overabundance of products in the national style in a modern outfit does not look very harmonious. Everything is good in moderation, as always.