How to choose a diamond ring. Advice from POKROVSKY experts


Everyone has known for a very long time that diamonds are a girl’s best friend. A diamond ring on a woman’s hand is not only evidence of her wealth. Jewelry with this most expensive stone in the world is passed down from generation to generation. And, even if they are not a museum value, they are valued in the family.

Today, the price of a diamond ring may seem unaffordable to many. But, as it turns out, you can give your woman such a ring and not go broke. It all depends on what kind of stone is inserted into an expensive gold frame.

It turns out you can buy a diamond ring at an average price. And here it is important to clearly understand that you are buying a natural diamond and not a fake. How to choose correctly and not fall into the clutches of scammers?

Important! You should buy diamond rings only in reliable, trusted places, stores that have a high reputation as an honest seller.

But if you continue to be tormented by vague doubts, you can check which stone is inserted into the ring.

Life hacks or how to check if a ring is a real diamond

  • Diamonds weighing more than 0.3 carats are certified in a gemological laboratory. In the case of selling a diamond in jewelry, a certificate can be issued not only for the stone itself, but also for a diamond ring, as well as other jewelry.

Having the certificate number, you can easily check it by going to the website of the laboratory that issued it. The certificate number is also printed on the bottom of the stone itself. This number cannot be changed without damaging the diamond.

The largest and most famous laboratory today is the American GIA laboratory. But certificates issued in India are of much less value.

  • Did you know that only a diamond will not be visible under X-rays?

Yes, of course, none of us will bother to have the stone shined before purchasing. But you can always check it this way. The rays will pass through the stone and the picture will be empty. No other material gives such a picture.

  • Distinguish a diamond from glass or crystal.

Breathe on it. If the stone does not fog up, then it is a diamond.

  • The targeted beam is not visible on the bottom or back of the stone.

This simple experiment can be carried out with a laser pointer or using a smartphone flashlight. The beam is refracted and does not pass through the stone to its reverse side.

  • Weight to size ratio.

There is a special table, thanks to which you can determine whether the carat corresponds to the size of the stone and its weight. Most often, a diamond is replaced with zirconium, crystal, quartz or cubic zirconia.

  • Let's look at the frame.

If you are offered a beautiful diamond in a cheap setting, then it is definitely not a diamond. At least two grams of gold are taken for the product, and it must be of the highest standard.

  • Sandpaper.

Of course, few people will allow you to use it in a store when purchasing. But! Sandpaper will not leave the slightest mark on a diamond.

Models current in 2022

The most popular trend of 2022 is red gold. Designers offer options with a diamond edge or a smooth surface.

The white alloy does not lose its position in combination with a laconic design and diamond cut. Despite their apparent simplicity, these decorations will sparkle and sparkle amazingly in the sun.


Among the elite niche, royal monograms are considered a trend.

Men's

Men's fashion gravitates towards minimalist shapes and combined colors. Washers, squares and a deliberately rough top layer seem to be contrasted with feminine openwork forging.

Straight edges are decorated with stones with horizontal grooves. Black minerals look interesting and noble against a silver surface.

Women's

The classic model of three intertwined circles of different shades, as well as openwork floral weaves and ornaments, are in great demand.

For business ladies, in the new collections there are pieces with black stones, similar to men's designs.

In the countries of Western Europe of the 17th-18th centuries, among the upper classes there was a fashion for women's wedding rings with a ruby ​​or diamond in the shape of a heart. The stones had a symbolic meaning: they assured the chosen one of the eternal love and fidelity of her future spouse.

Doubles

Paired rings became widespread during the Renaissance. Interesting fact: there could be not two rings, but three. The first was worn by the future bride, the second by the groom, and the third by the witness. On the wedding day, all the rings were combined into one. The paired item was called “Gimmel”: the founder of the Protestant religious movement, Martin Luther, was married with a triple ring.

Today, many pairs are leaning toward the European white gold version, which has a round shape and a flat cross-section.


A simple design can be complemented by stripes with small stones.

With one stone

This is the first time a single diamond has appeared in the collection of the Tiffany jewelry house. Today, this laconic, sophisticated white gold model is in great demand in European countries.


placer

An elegant and very feminine option for sophisticated taste and delicate physique.

The placer is presented in the collections of such world jewelry houses as Chopard and Cartier.

Engraving

An absolute hit of the season: unique inscriptions on the inside or outside.

They can be names, dates or love vows. An innovation was the inscriptions on the outer surface: in the old days, such liberty was considered a strange ostentatious eccentricity, which cannot be said about secret engraving, hidden from prying eyes.

Path of diamonds

A model with three or five diamonds arranged in a single line is called a “Princess Ring”: an English classic for engagement.

After the first decades of the 20th century, it was almost forgotten, but today jewelers have introduced it into the collections of world brands.

How much does a diamond ring cost?

Why will a diamond ring cost less than a single diamond ring? After all, there is more work in it, and more stones themselves.

The thing is that the cost of a precious stone is growing exponentially. Its price is determined by the formula: size squared, multiplied by the cost of one carat.

So, 1 stone of 1 carat will cost 10 times more than ten stones of 0.1 carat. What can we say about diamond chips? It will cost very little. But it is precisely thanks to this formula that it becomes possible to buy a diamond ring without an exorbitant price. It becomes more accessible to the consumer.

Diamond clarity and color

This parameter also affects the price of the stone and the gold diamond ring. Most of us are accustomed to the fact that a diamond is a transparent stone that, under the rays of light, reveals all the colors of the rainbow.

There is a scale of stone transparency, in which the most expensive ones are transparent. The rating system was developed by the GIA Institute and is a classification accepted throughout the world.

The purity of a stone is rated on a scale from D to Z. These letters indicate the presence of rock inclusions in the crystal. And the more such inclusions, the lower the cost of the diamond. The most expensive diamonds in this classification go from D to M. Then their cost is approximately the same.

After the letter scale rating comes the shade rating. There are only three of them:

  1. intensive;
  2. thick;
  3. dark.

The last option on the list is a diamond with rich, deep shades that is extremely rare in nature. And due to this, it is the most expensive type.

Interesting Facts. One of the most expensive diamonds has a graphite color. The Black Orlov diamond weighs 67.50 carats, and its origin is shrouded in mystical mystery.

Colored diamonds with a rich hue are classified as fancy. They are not assessed on a generally accepted scale. The most expensive diamond is a rich fancy one.

The most common diamonds are yellow ones. Less often blue and extremely rarely pink. When describing them, the letter of the secondary color is placed first.

Naturally mined fancy diamonds are some of the most expensive. They are much cheaper to produce artificially. The fluorescence in such fancy colored diamonds is highly valued. But for a transparent diamond this will be a serious drawback.

Interesting Facts. The largest natural diamond is the Cullinan I. It was found in 1905 and weighed 3106 ct.

Materials

Jewelry fashion of the 21st century is characterized by a mixture of shades of precious alloys.

The smallest gold ring, encrusted with a diamond, was received by Henry VIII's two-year-old daughter, Mary, on the occasion of her engagement in 1518. The decoration was the guarantee of her future union with the newborn son of King Francis I of France.

White gold

Noble classic. The popular 585 standard indicates the high durability and practicality of the jewelry in everyday life.

750 alloy shines much brighter, but with prolonged use its surface is quickly scratched.

Yellow gold

It is not very popular in wedding collections (with the exception of combined alloys). It is preferred only in the countries of East Asia and Turkey. Yellow color is more in harmony with stones of warm colors: rubies and emeralds.


If you decide to pay tribute to tradition, opt for the retro version with openwork forging.

Red gold

The alloy is produced by adding a master alloy of copper and zinc. The deep red color is achieved thanks to palladium, and the soft pink hue of the alloy is given by an admixture of silver. The red alloy jewelry with a pure white stone looks royal and noble.

Another distinctive feature of the alloy is its strength and durability: museum exhibits from the late 19th century have still not lost their aristocratic appearance. It is interesting that in the last century, red gold was the main raw material in jewelry factories of the USSR.

How does the cut of a stone affect the price?

The play of light in a diamond creates that unique charm. Passing through the stone, a ray of light bounces off the edges, refracts and produces all the colors of the rainbow and a unique radiance.

How many such facets must there be for a diamond to sparkle, and does their possible number depend on weight? It is believed that ideally a large diamond should have 57 facets. Stones from 0.33 to 0.05 will have a total of 33 facets. But here comes the skill of a jeweler who can cut a 0.33-carat diamond so that it has all 57 facets.

Fancy cut is more common today.

  • Princess.
    The weight of the stone can vary from a 2.6mm stone weighing 0.1ct to a 9.5mm stone weighing 5ct. Princess is one of the most popular cut types. The play of light in it is one of the most intense. Today, the Princess is significantly more expensive than other fancy cuts. This cut has a square shape, but can also be rectangular. Some jewelers use the Princess themselves. In some products it can be seen surrounded by trillions.
  • A trillion
    is a triangular diamond with rounded sides. This design was first invented by jewelers in Amsterdam. What the final shape of the diamond will be depends directly on the preferences of the jeweler.

The following types of cuts are cheaper. But they look larger than a round diamond due to their shape.

  • Asscher cut.
    Somewhat reminiscent of the Princess, but it has more to do with the shape. The Asscher diamond has more tiers. The most expensive are Ashers with an equilateral shape.
  • Baguette.
    The same applies to rectangular or square stones. If the aspect ratio is 1:1, then the cut is called Square. This shape has the fewest edges, so it is advisable to use it for processing small diamonds.

The baguette will look good in bracelets, necklaces, and pendants. It is used to frame jewelry. When purchasing a ring with a baguette, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the cut, as the stone may have cracks.

  • Marquis.
    It has an oval shape, narrowed towards the edges. A 0.1ct stone will measure 4.6mm by 2.6mm, while a 5ct stone will measure 16.6mm by 9.5mm.

The diamond has a slightly elongated wedge shape. A ring with a Marquis will look perfect on a narrow and very graceful hand, lengthening the fingers.

Interesting Facts. According to legend, this cut was ordered from a jeweler by Louis XIV for the Marquise de Pompadour. The diamond was made in the shape of her smile.

  • Pear.
    This diamond shape closely resembles a teardrop. The size of 0.1ct according to the table is 4*2.7 mm, and 5ct is 14.7*9.8 mm. When used in a ring, it also visually lengthens the fingers. However, most often Pear is used in the manufacture of pendants, earrings and necklaces.
  • Heart.
    This is a Pear-shaped diamond, only with a split part on a wide base. In execution, this is one of the most complex types of cutting. You should carefully select a heart-shaped diamond ring, paying attention to the high clarity of the lines. A weight of 0.1ct corresponds to dimensions of 3.3*3.2 mm, 5ct - 11.2*10.8mm.
  • Oval.
    0.1ct in an oval of 3.6 mm by 2.8, and 5ct 13.1 by 10 mm. The shape is used for large and expensive diamonds. Looks great in rings and earrings.
  • Radiant.
    A deep stone with a lot of weight. One of those cuts that can enhance the play of color. It has an octagonal shape and a deep pavilion.

Now it becomes easier to understand what makes up the price of a diamond.

Check out the features

What is usually written in certificates? There are two scales used to evaluate diamonds: color and quality (clarity). These characteristics tend to be unity, the color is ideally pure and transparent, and the quality is characterized by inclusions inside the stone, represented by graphite dots and cracks. In Russia, these characteristics are reflected in numbers, in the international scale - in letters. Their ratio is given in the tables below.

For example, you may see the inscription 5/6 on the product tag. This means that the color of the stone has a value of 5, and the quality (purity) is 6. The real characteristics of diamonds are considered to be 3/3 as close to ideal as possible. It is rare that a stone will receive a higher grade from a gemological center, but this also happens. This information is worth double-checking, because it makes the stone significantly more expensive.

Good characteristics of a large stone are considered to be from 3/5 to 4/5.

To sum it up: how to choose a diamond ring

  1. When buying a diamond ring, you should first of all objectively assess your budget. This way, when you come to the store, you won’t rush around chaotically, but will immediately indicate to the seller which options you are ready to choose from. Firstly, this way you will save your own time. Secondly, you will not feel awkward when you are offered options for a diamond ring that you cannot pay for.
  2. Make your choice based on the points listed in the article: type of cut, color, etc.
  3. Ask to see the passport for the product you like. As we wrote above, appropriate documents are issued for diamond rings.

In fact, these are all your actions. However, there is one significant point that you should definitely consider when buying a diamond ring. By law, jewelry cannot be returned. And it doesn’t matter at all how much the product costs. The store does not have the right to accept it even a few minutes after purchase.

Therefore, when choosing a diamond ring, you must be 101% sure that the size will be correct. When buying a ring for yourself, this will not be a problem. You will try on the ring on the spot and decide on the size. If a diamond in a ring setting is bought as a gift, you need to know the size accurately.

WHO ISSUES CERTIFICATES

  1. When buying a diamond, it is better to ask the seller to show the stone’s certificate.
  2. This is necessary because the diamonds may be synthesized or the seller may be dishonest.
  3. If the seller shows you a certificate, you should check that the certificate was issued for this particular diamond.
  4. The diamond is weighed and it is checked whether the given weight corresponds to that recorded in the certificate.
  5. You can also take a magnifying glass, carefully examine the stone and compare it with the certificate.

Certificates are issued by GIA. Such a document most realistically evaluates colorless stones. There are also PGGL, AGSL and LGP certificates.

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